PhillB Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 HI guys. Any suggestions how to un jam a CLutch peddle. Was working fine then teh Peddle become loced and will not depress. Is this a recognised fault PhillB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Phil, I hope that's just a typo as there is no clutch pedal! If you've been using it as one then you could be in for some problems. It sounds like a false neutral to me. Get both feet on it and try to press it down. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baz48 Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Phil, I hope that's just a typo as there is no clutch pedal! If you've been using it as one then you could be in for some problems. It sounds like a false neutral to me. Get both feet on it and try to press it down. Chris Gear-change pedal, if it is a false neutral both feet down hard and be prepared for a ferocious kick back. As above says it’s not a clutch and should not be used as one. Select the next gear to be used, and kick down when its required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillB Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 HI guys Thanks for responding so quick. Apologies for using incorrect terminology for the gear change pedal. I stand corrected. A rapid learning curve ! We will try the solution and let you know. We had removed one of the access plates to have look at the linkages and found a RE issue spanner! PhillB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 If it's stuck in the up position, that sounds like a false-neutral to me; if the down position, it could be that the return spring has gone over centre. False neutrals can be caused by poor operation of the pedal (a common problem is trying to press the pedal with the instep of your foot and your toe hitting the boxing above the pedal area, preventing it from being pushed all the way down (make sure you use the ball of your foot and that your toes clear the reinforcing), or it can be caused by your gear linkages being out of adjustment - I occasionally get a false neutral on 4th, if I don't pull back on the selector lever a little and really need to adjust the linkages. On the up side, I'm very strong in the legs and can easily reset the pedal, but most other people really struggle with it. Like others have said, the pedal is a gear change pedal and should never be used as a clutch. If you do, it will rapidly wear out your gearbox, which is both expensive and difficult to repair. If you haven't already, get yourself a copy of the driver's handbook at the very least and read it thoroughly. One of the most critical things is the "pedal down" procedure, which involves selecting each gear (with the engine not running) and giving the pedal 6-10 full strokes, before selecting the next gear; this ensures that the automatic adjusters are kept tight (you can't over adjust them, so sometimes if you have a slipping gear, a large number of pumps will get it back in spec, unless it's too far gone). Also make sure that you use the correct grades of oil, particularly in the gearbox: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?13284-Saracen-RR-B80-Fluids&p=399965#post399965 Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillB Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Cheers guys. Update is the false neutral sorted with a big kick to the peddle, nearly completed the full service changing engine and gear box oil. Electrics and lights now good including inside lights. UK registration plates now on. Brakes need final check before we torment residents of Wiltshire with a run on on the road. All possible only with the hard work of my local ex REME. Even got the Bren for the back!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baz48 Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Enjoy your outing and post picks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlienFTM Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Enjoy your outing and post picks I remember the false neutral on a Saracen is savage, almost pushing the left knee into the shoulder, and a lot of hard work to correct on the move. To be avoided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillB Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Hi guys. Need advice re getting Saracen brakes working. hydraulic pump working, we have recharged the 3 accumulators and we have pressure at the bleed points but the right hand warning light remains lit with no brake pedal function. Any suggestions Phill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cold_War_Collection Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hi guys. Need advice re getting Saracen brakes working. hydraulic pump working, we have recharged the 3 accumulators and we have pressure at the bleed points but the right hand warning light remains lit with no brake pedal function. Any suggestions Phill Pressure at what bleeders? the hull lines or at the wheel stations? Cheers Nick CWC Canada (Saracen Mk 6) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillB Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hull lines. Not checked wheel station yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cold_War_Collection Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hull lines. Not checked wheel station yet Ok, each has a bleed nipple to attend to. have fun !! Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadawg Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 If it's stuck in the up position, that sounds like a false-neutral to me; if the down position, it could be that the return spring has gone over centre. False neutrals can be caused by poor operation of the pedal (a common problem is trying to press the pedal with the instep of your foot and your toe hitting the boxing above the pedal area, preventing it from being pushed all the way down (make sure you use the ball of your foot and that your toes clear the reinforcing), or it can be caused by your gear linkages being out of adjustment - I occasionally get a false neutral on 4th, if I don't pull back on the selector lever a little and really need to adjust the linkages. On the up side, I'm very strong in the legs and can easily reset the pedal, but most other people really struggle with it. Like others have said, the pedal is a gear change pedal and should never be used as a clutch. If you do, it will rapidly wear out your gearbox, which is both expensive and difficult to repair. If you haven't already, get yourself a copy of the driver's handbook at the very least and read it thoroughly. One of the most critical things is the "pedal down" procedure, which involves selecting each gear (with the engine not running) and giving the pedal 6-10 full strokes, before selecting the next gear; this ensures that the automatic adjusters are kept tight (you can't over adjust them, so sometimes if you have a slipping gear, a large number of pumps will get it back in spec, unless it's too far gone). Also make sure that you use the correct grades of oil, particularly in the gearbox: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?13284-Saracen-RR-B80-Fluids&p=399965#post399965 Cheers, Terry I am impressed and humbled at how much knowledge this site confers to guys like me (clueless). Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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