Saladin Wheel Stations

[Aussie]

Front wheels are both seized, although they did turn a while ago. Anyway, I disconnected the brake plate and drum (thumb), and the pressure plate (forefinger) rotates freely, so I think that rules out the brake as the culprit(?).

 

Then removed the hub cap and, joy of joys, got just a few ml of water dripping into the bucket. (Can't get the drain plug to bottom centre to drain the rest, due to the wheel being seized)

 

So, my opening question as I come to terms with what is wrong: I've removed the outer housing nuts but see no chance of removing the two slotted plugs to insert "extraction bolts" (whatever that is) other than by drilling them out. Also can't see any way to remove the bearing without removing the housing. Would it be ok to bolt a bracket onto the hub plate bolts and then push that out with a bolt screwed against the end of the shaft? I also considered putting the hub plate back on and hitting it with a hammer, but that seems a bit brutal.

Thanks

James

Edited November 16, 2013 by Aussie

[Catch 22 LBDR]

Ok. I have found that the best way to remove stubborn slotted screws from brake drum's etc is with an impact tool. You can set it to on or off and then belt the top of the tool with a good heavy hammer. Tapping the area around the screw with a hammer first can sometimes brake the seal between the screw and its surroundings.

 

[Catch 22 LBDR]

My next concern is; I consulted an ex REME mechanic when I wanted to overhaul the wheel stations on my Stalwart. He told me what to expect inside. He also told me that the two sets of planetary gears inside had to be "timed". The hole thing will go back together with out doing this and you will think you have it right until you drive off! crunch!!:shocked:. This was enough to put me off for now. I dont know if the Stalwart is the same inside as the Saladin, it might be more like the Saracen, you could ask someone who has done a wheel station on one them. The Ferret only has one set of planetary gears and so did not require timing.

This is what to expect inside the hub. This is the ferret hub, you can see the planetary gears hear. I believe there are two sets of them in your hub. Mark every gear with a bit if paint and take lots of pictures for reference. Good luck.

[Starfire]

From what I understand, the Saladin hubs are identical to the Saracen ones, except for the brakes. They do indeed need to be timed, but according to the manual, it's a fairly simple process.

 

Cheers,

Terry

[Richard Farrant]

They do indeed need to be timed, but according to the manual, it's a fairly simple process.

 

 

 

Hi Terry,

The manuals describe using a Gagging tool to ensure the correct teeth are aligned. It is some years since I last done this on one of the three Alvis's, but there are marks on the teeth of the gears that all have to be correct, the tool ensures perfect alignment. The task can be done without the tool, but for safety sake with all wheels on that side off the ground, the hub should be carefully turned to ensure a gear had not moved when fitting the sun gear.

 

EMER's (manuals) have a habit of glossing over any tricky tasks, I am well familiar with them and on occasion with an unknown piece of equipment, the book was consulted only to have it say "just remove" and "refit in reverse order".

 

cheers Richard

[Starfire]

Thanks Richard,

 

The manual also shows the construction of the tool and strongly recommended its use.

 

Cheers,

Terry

[101 Ron]

Front wheels are both seized, although they did turn a while ago. Anyway, I disconnected the brake plate and drum (thumb), and the pressure plate (forefinger) rotates freely, so I think that rules out the brake as the culprit(?).

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]83972[/ATTACH]

Then removed the hub cap and, joy of joys, got just a few ml of water dripping into the bucket. (Can't get the drain plug to bottom centre to drain the rest, due to the wheel being seized)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]83973[/ATTACH]

So, my opening question as I come to terms with what is wrong: I've removed the outer housing nuts but see no chance of removing the two slotted plugs to insert "extraction bolts" (whatever that is) other than by drilling them out. Also can't see any way to remove the bearing without removing the housing. Would it be ok to bolt a bracket onto the hub plate bolts and then push that out with a bolt screwed against the end of the shaft? I also considered putting the hub plate back on and hitting it with a hammer, but that seems a bit brutal.

Thanks

James

 

Looking at the pic above, your suggestion of drilling the slotted plugs would work and On my Stalwart those plugs are not slotted, but allen head plugs( may be a improvement).

Yes impact driver is the best bet , that doesn't work then drill out.

Just to remove the bearing a bearing extractor tool could be used that locks into the bearing itself using half round ball type legs after destroying part of the bearing cage, but I can little point in just removing the bearing.

One other thing at may work is to use a slide hammer on a plate made up to fit a plate made to go on the 6 protruding studs and nuts( like the hub cap taken off previously and the slide hammer shaft threaded/attached to the middle of it.