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Powering 24 volt Clansman


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I've been toying with the idea of building a 220 volt [mains] -to- 24 volt transformer inside a Clansman 24 volt battery case.

 

I have been looking at ......

 

Brand new 24V 2A DC Regulated Switching Transformer Power Supply

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-new-24V-2A-DC-Regulated-Switching-Transformer-Power-Supply-/270992313891?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item3f18668e23#ht_2693wt_1136

 

on e-bay and was thinking this would provide enough voltage/current for a Clansman 351.

 

The power supply would be housed inside an empty Clansman battery case, a mains cable exiting the battery box [possibly using a kettle style plug and socket] and the 24 volt output connected to the normal battery -to- radio connection tags.

 

Does anyone foresee any problems ?

 

Thanks

Barrie

Edited by Marmite!!
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Problems - yes plenty - HF & VHF switching noise and its harmonics unless you use super duper filters. Stick to a linear conventional supply.

 

It has also not been unknown for these things to go up in smoke and our homes are full of them (switching power supplies)

 

Diana

Edited by Marmite!!
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From memory I think the 352 and 320 on transmit are more like 4 amps. I remember a chap in Wales did list mains power supply units built into a 1AH battery case on e-bay a couple of years ago but I havent seen them since. The problem with the 351/2 and 320 is that they were never designed for noisy supplies - in a vehicle the normal approach was to float charge a battery off a DCCU (which is a switch mode supply but rather well made and expensive). So direct connection to a 24 v vehicle supply or a simple switch mode type would be unwise. I think the larger 4AH cases would be adequate for a linear 24V 4A supply if adequately ventilated, but you might struggle to find one ready made and new today.

 

The alternative which I know quite a few people have done with dead Ni-Cd packs is to fill them with a pair of small 12V Yuasa sealed lead acid batteries that can then be float charged from a cheap "mobility battery" charger without too much trouble. Even with periodic replacement of the lead acid cells this is likely to be cheaper than a DCCU and fresh Ni-Cads.

 

From experience it's best to get the metal cased type as opening them by carefully drilling out the rivets is much easier than plastic. The actual metal is surprisingly soft and relies on the batteries and foam packing for strength when assembled. You will probably need to line it with something stronger if you plan on building anything inside.

 

Hope this helps

 

Iain

73 de G0OZS

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Thank-you both.

 

Obviously as safety comes first and I'm sure you both have much more knowledge than myself.......

 

I take it as a resounding , 'no'.

 

Back to the drawing board !

 

 

Thanks

Barrie

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