gritineye

Well my LR 110 Hicap with a Mazda 3.5 diesel in it for a start, if thats the gross weight.

No games or sweets allowed in class, hand 'em over lad :nono: Lesson three This is where it all gets a bit messy I'm afraid, but you must remember that this is cutting edge stuff and prototypes aren't always pretty! This is the bell housing fitted, the bit cut out of the E/F gearbox with the bearing inside bolted to the centre boss, to stop the boss from falling out I used bits of steel flat stock bolted through existing holes as far as possible. It would have been easier to use the whole end of the gbox. The thin plate is covering a thick leather seal I cut out to fit, a grease nipple is fitted (can just see a bit of it at top) The release shaft was connected ti the original pedal and rods by cutting and welding the arm, this took a few goes to get right as at first the clutch worked OK but was so light that there was no 'feel', so I shortened the lever until it felt right. Can't find pix of the rear mountings as made so this will have to do for now, note the link to prevent fore and aft movement, l/h side. Fan relocating next, keep up at the back!

Been looking on Google earth, can't see it anywhere!

Hi Jon, Only 15 years? It's so comfy here you'll never go in the shed again!

Would it lift 8 ton and still go round corners?

Having worked out where he was and when, has anybody got an idea what he was trying to remember here? It's too late for the gunpowder plot, so he wasn't helping Guy out! No medical answers needed, Jack won't like 'em :readbook:

Lesson 2 Scammell gearbox input coupling flangy thing. End of Fuller shaft, bush to be removed. Plug turned to fit both internal sizes of shaft and flange Flange shortened and shaped, shaft shaped and the two pieces pressed together. Did I hear voices off saying "That ain't gonna work, daft ba****rd" ? Well this method was used when putting a locker and Salisbury shafts in a LR S3 front axle swivel and never broke in competition use. Pre heated in Rayburn and welded together with dissimilar metals rods and turned off to eliminate stress points Welding caused a bit of warping of the flange face, so this was turned true again, the bolts were splayed a tiny wee bit but the holes in the Metalastic coupling had enough clearance to allow for this Still looking for the rest of the pix so end of class 2

Still looking for pix, :yawn: It takes a long time to slow enough to get a gear when standing, but on the move I rev to 2200, slip into neutral, let it drop to 1200 and it goes in perfic, with or without the clutch. The power band matches the gbox nicely, but you need to rev it because of the 'slow rev decay', a technical phrase I heard somewhere'.

Like I said David, you are just the type we want around here, please wash your hands in the half oil drum BBQ on the patio, it will be alight most times. :-D

No Mike, and it drags, and drags................

Here we go with the Cummins L10 conversion evening classes, I can't find all my pix so more words may be needed, sorry for that. Due to the Scammell shaft being too short and the clutch being a twin plate pull off type, I started to adapt the one that came with the engine/gbox, without much hope of success it must be said! The Eaton/Fuller bell housing, the clutch release components were moved to the other position opposite the access hole and the housing fitted upside down so the hole is at the top, and shaft (not fitted in this pic) protruding out of the bottom r/h side. The clutch brake was missing and I never bothered to get one fitted, a mistake! The first motion shaft from the E/F gearbox fitted, the bearing that supports this was located in the front of the gearbox, this bit of the casting was anglegrindered out for re-use, bad things were said to me at this point by onlookers! Note that the large centre boss is only a push fit in the alloy at this point. This is the first motion shaft, you can see where the clutch brake has worn the shaft and spline (or groove) and why I didn't fit a new one. Anyhow this was an experiment and a new shaft etc was not in the budget. classes will continue tomorrow night.

REOs?............ turbo whistle?.............really?..........:whistle:

Hi Steve, Meadows Petrol engine :clap::clap::clap: respect.

Welcome Chris, it's good to have a different Explorer here, it's a problem picking the out the right one in the car park after dark sometimes, what with there being so many now!

Hi David, mechanics and body men especially welcome on here, we have eco friendly oil & grease remover on tap in the clubhouse wash room, so no marks on the HMVF towels please.

Many thanks for the input chaps, will pass it on.

Been looking for them, can't find em, they may be on a backup disc after a change of PC, please be patient Chris.

That would be my choice, be different, get noticed :-D

Never ever heard of any of that stuff, all mine I'm afraid, only original thinking this end old chap

Nope, we're not bored here at all.

LPG is a viable option then and may well be the way forward if you have a sound Meadows to start with, I didn't but Andy Fowler has! I suspect he will be along soon to ask how much it all cost! It has to be the only way to keep a Meadows engined one in regular use, Well done. Watch that rear Prop like a hawk at those speeds :shake:

6X6, the path to a happy life is the way that causes less stress and more enjoyment, Diesel engines can help one to find that path. :banana::banana:

There is a chap I know who is fitting one now, I will try and contact him to look at progress and take pix, he drove Forceful and picked my brains for a day before getting an engine so got the rear sump, single plate clutch, single front mounting pad, and a rev counter from the same truck.

Judging by the speed of some of your replies, you are a more accomplished typist than many of us

The best bit about MV restoration is mat paint, wavy panels and the odd screw heads tend to blend in, those that don't are righteous battle scars :-D