Cold_War_Collection

Much more confort than that little motorcycle type seat, thats for sure :-) here are some shots for you! are these what you are looking for, detail wise? For the spall liner on the rear doors, just an RTV silicone and then sandwich with the outer door armor, for the inside padding, we have not decided yet, as we are still looking at foam types. What we intend to do is get a foam core, and wrap it with the correct outer cover and then glue in place, but, we are looking for a good non-hydroscopic type foam, to avoid moisture retention, like the original did, and hopefully avoid rust. Once we have the foam, then we will select the adhesive to match. I'll keep you posted! cheers Nick

inside hull pic...tedious re-wire job to get it right!

As I work on other folks MV's....not any of those, but have in the past. Personally? transportation related, old 60' and '70's motorcycles, drag race machines or road track...either do, plus a couple of modern, red, and very fast Ducati's. Military Related, Finnish Winter War, and War of Continuation stuff as My Opa was a FOO (nailed more than a few Soviet T series with his Stug III as well!). Most prized on my shelf, are his Binoculars and compass. cheers Nick CWC Canada

Ah, yes, that does tend to complicate matters somewhat, sorry, should have asked about the config. of the particular M-37. That's a different set up, has it been modified, or was there a reason for the different type of charging system? cheers Nick

Hi Robin, might not be a record. When we went looking for the Saracen regi, we found that once issued with a new number , any records of the previous regi was now lost. I hope thats not the case for the 101's. Perhaps Marshalls kept records of what was converted to what? Good Luck! Nick

if you turn it down while the engine is running (carefully), you will be able to see the voltage drop as you are turning it, as well, the needle on the guage will drop into mid green. Best to set it up mid-green arc with the lights on Cheers Nick CWC Canada

Ok, try locating the adjuster, it will be on the "barrel" of the alternator, towards the rear, should be able to access from the top. once exposed, you can turn down the screw to reduce the current flow

New Old Stock goodies :-) will have these in for Monday ! Nick CWC Canada

Hi, I used to own one of these (same problem) and our fleet M-35 also had an over-charge condition. Many M-Series have an adjuster on the Alternator , its a small slot screw under a hex head metal plastic cap or plug. You can adjust the output on the unit if you were needing to run Radios and other equipment, and adjust it down if you were just running the truck without extra radios etc. You should have 27.5 VDC as your charge rate, higher than 28.5 VDC and you will eventually run your batts dry. Whats the dash guage showing? mid "green" Cheers CWC Canada

Hi All, About to install a NOS Gearbox in our Saracen, and I'm asking to see if anyone knows the correct oil type? I have the UK specs, but I'm looking for something that I can get in North America that is equivilent? Many Thanks Nick CWC Canada

Its not that hard, or expensive, much like shipping a MV from the UK to here...but...and its a big "but" Export permits. First, if you are even thinking about this, see if the vehicle is even exportable, there are number of vehicles that are under ITAR and US TACOM rules that the State Dept. will not allow for export. This can be further back than you realize (we were looking at an M-16, with the Quad .50 mount, to Canada, from the US. Vehicle ok, but the Quad mount, no way.) Second. Export Permits You will have to have a company with all the approvals from the US State Dept to export armor. Its expenisve to have and maintain, and very few companies will deal with a private actor (musums and institutiuons get a better ride, but not by much). Check around, do homework. Third UK Import. Your Government will require similar import paper work, such as End User Agreements etc. Best to work with a company in the UK that imports / exports already. Trying this on your own, well...could be bad ...by bad, I mean having the vehicle taken by one of the Governments involved, and not getting it back (it will be scrapped) and as well, possible fines and jail time if you try to "slide" something through. We do this alot, (import) and we depend on the suppliers in the UK and the US to keep us legal and happy. I cannot say enough good things about the professionalism and solid work we have had done by our UK suppliers, and I would strongly suggest talking with them before undertaking an import. Exports from the US can be done, but its paper intensive, and accuracy counts! Good luck, all these are going to need good homes Cheers Nick CWC Canada

Hi Robin, As its a mix we do here, sorry, no picture of a Label, but...our mix is the following Glasurit (mfg.) Mix code CMO 839 this give a hard wearing silver finish that matches the original as painted, but has no fade or wear off issues. Cheers Nick

We have a local supplier, Co-Auto, mixing it for us, I'll pop over to the body shop and see if I can find a can to take a picture of. The colour was scanned on an original non-faded interior panel, so it should be quite close. I'm sure we have the mixing codes as well, so I will ask about that too Cheers Nick ps, I'll be up at Denholm Sunday working on the 206 if you are in the area!

happy new year, and thanks to all who chimed in on this interesting and unexpected part of the restoration. here is the refinished part, about to go in the hull. loction of this is on the drivers right, on the ceiling above the forward firing port. cheers Nick CWC Canada

Might have it "on" at MV shows....keeps the kids off :-)

Hello Clive here is a picture of the makers mark, and the serial number is as follows; TYPE C2TS/4 24 VOLT No. 2355 and the unit is 4 inches long, and 2 1/2 inches in dia. the "tower" where the lead screws in is 1 1/2 inches high, and is attached by 6 round head slot screws many thanks for the feedback Cheers, and happy new year! Nick

Picure of Chain and fitting. The Chain is approx 8 inches from the floor (although wheels are removed, hull is at the right height). there is a hole in the hull for a cable above the fitting, and the chain mounting bolt is secured in a rubber mount, to isolate from the hull bracket. cheers Nick

Wow. I would have never guessed that was the application, anyone know where inside the hull the control was mounted in the Saracen? (it was in a box of parts, taken off in the long past) cheers Nick

true! and it would solve the probem of nosey folks at MV shows....just imagine, "hey, don't let your kids climb on that...ZAP...oh....too late"

...out of our MK 6 .... Any ideas on what, and where this goes? many thanks Nick CWC Canada

I wish it was! at least that would hopefully make the lights work :-)

Wire Harness....some assembly required ! happy Christmass all! Nick CWC Canada

Hello R having done our CVR(T) in the spring (Top overhaul of the J 60, NOS Gearbocx and a rebuild of the D/S final drive), I can say that the majority of the fasteners encountered is UNF, with some UNC when dealing with fasteners into the hull (alloy likes UNC more than UNF) I did replace one brake line with fittings, and straight lines and fittings came from NAPA, and fitted no problem. We replaced many of the bolts and nuts that were rusty with newer ones, and again, these were comman UNF Chris is right however, its things like road wheels and sprockets that are the hard bits. I ended up making an electrical harness from scratch (Hull to Turrret coupling) as we could not find one at all. We have worked hard at finding various specialists who make things for us as needed, like the wings for the Saracen, so if you need someone to build something, we may have a contact for you! All the best of the season Robin! Stay warm, its a cold one today! Nick

Each to their own, thats how I look at it. The same unfortunate debate rages on this side of the Atlantic as well. We here at the Museum wear black coveralls or British AFV crew suits, mostly as we get dirty, and the AFV suits have the advantage of pull handles on the shoulders so someone can get you out if you can't do it yourself. I wore a uniform for years for my country, and personally, have no desire to wear one of another era, but thats a personal choice, and I uphold folks freedom to do what they like. Of course, then again, my Fin and German ancestors wore uniforms that may not be all that acceptable :-), ...but I would like to have a Stug III like my Opa went tank hunting in! (He was a FOO, Winter War, War of Continuation, then Army Groupe Centre) War touches all of us, and all are free to remember how they see fit.

we are going to lay one up as an add-on once the resto has been done, so we will keep you posted on this project if you like. We will most likely use alloy, to keep the weight down cheers Nick CWC Canada