67burwood

I spoke to autosparks a while ago but they were unable to help as I don’t have the original loom to use as a pattern.

If you could Martin that would be great, I’ll pm you.

Today’s progress report….. Now that we have a bit of extra light in the evenings I started to strip and service the front brakes, this is not a 5 minute job and the brake drums and hub assembly weigh about 30kg each!! first hub off and everything looks in fairly good order. There is virtually no wear on the front drums A good blast of brake cleaner to get rid of the nasty stuff The brake expanders were a bit sticky so there were striped and cleaned Interesting set up with 2 ball bearings and expanders Not a very good picture but the cable is fixed inside the housing and both ball bearings sit inside the end of the cable. Luckily both front brake cables move freely, they were greased and refitted. With both front brakes now serviced and adjusted I started to grease the 5000+ grease nipples 🤔 ok not quite 5000 but there’s a lot…. I also started to check the levels, might as well start at the front and work my way back crossing off all the small jobs as I go, one job I noticed was the transfer lever wasn’t engaging 4 wheel drive, this should have been a fairly straight forward job!! after some time slowly adjusting the transfer rod disaster 😩 the cast alloy lever button just broke!!!! If anyone has a replacement button please let me know , I also need a left hand wheel nut

It’s not a set back…..it’s just another challenge to overcome 🤔😁

I feel your pain !! I’ve got this to deal with 🤨

Thanks for the tip 👍 a G clamp and socket makes perfect sense. Yes very happy with the outcome so far, it’s really starting to take shape, my daughter hand painted the number nine on the bridging plate just to make it look more authentic.

From a maintenance point of view it’s perfect, keep it all lubricated and there’s nothing to go bad if it sits unused and yes I agree, driving this truck will definitely be a workout 😁

This weekend I…er..be mainly un-seizing brakes 🤔 decided to tackle the brakes and get my head around the general setup of this rod and cable system, there is a lot of moving parts ( or should be moving parts ) This is mission control Handbrake and rear brakes pedal support pivot and on top of that there’s 4 cables 🤨 every clevis pin bar 2 was rusted solid, I stupidly got impatient and mushroomed the clevis pin head 🙄 that cost me a couple of hours messing about, should have just waited for it to heat up properly all the main components are now in working order, next job drums off and further inspection.

A few more bits fitted, the parts shed is starting to look a bit bare!! Thank god. If anyone can help I am looking for a mirror arm and a pair of mirror heads to match the pictures below.

Always impressed with the workmanship and level of detail 👍

Evening everyone Some advise needed please. 1, is the any particular ww2 font/style for the bridging plate number? 2, can anyone recommend a mobile auto electrician that covers Surrey/ SW London area ? I’d like to get a new loom made for the truck, there’s no original loom available to copy. Thanks Seamus

Still quite a lot of work to do, complete rewire, rebuild rear body, service running gear, brakes and tyres !! Couple of weekends work 😁 Richard and Charlotte are also making canvas gators for the gear-lever, transfer lever and hand brake.

It will certainly be an interesting drive 😬

It’s definitely not the easiest gear change, I am considering having a crash pad made to fit on the rear bulkhead to save wacking my elbow every time you try for 2nd and 4th……or …….I could just use 1st and 3rd. 🤔

Still plodding along and chipping away at the never ending list 🤨 Jobs now completed 🍻 Throttle pedal now sorted, had to shorten the throttle lever on the manifold by 20mm to get the angle of the dangle right. Drivers side floor pan now finished with draft excluders fitted around the pedals. Popped down to Kent this morning to collect my new seat cushions and cupola cover all courtesy of RCH Canvas, Richard and Charlotte done a fantastic job at a very reasonable price, if you need any canvas products for British military vehicles RCH Canvas can be found on Facebook. Cupola cover is a great fit and really finishes the roof off. Seat cushions fitted, I’ve ordered some new lift dot studs for the seat frames as a couple are missing.

The horses have bolted !! Just donkeys left 😂 from advice given it sounds like I need to shorten the throttle lever on the manifold, moving the cable isn’t really an option as it’s a complicated set up, I’ve already tried several different positions on the throttle lever but I haven’t shortened it yet, more fettling required….

I need less travel which will also better position the pedal

It’s complicated!! The pedal and double hinged shaft are part of the original rod and lever set up that is combined with the hand throttle, the new throttle cable is connected to this which is attached to the chassis, there’s a lot of moving parts 🤨 Photo 6 when the cable is attached to the manifold is a bodge, I’ve cut and welded it 5 times to try different positions, as you said it’s down to crank ratios but I am struggling to work it out.

Evening everyone Problem solving time 🤔 So…the problem!! …. My throttle pedal is sitting to high and has too much travel, as you know originally the wot6 would have had a flat head V8 and the throttle would have been made up of various rods and links, a previous owner fitted the current Ford 4d Diesel engine and the throttle was a bit of a hash that didn’t really work and wasn’t connected to the hand throttle, a while back I spent quite some time fitting a throttle cable and making various brackets and links to connect the hand throttle so everything worked as it should but I was never happy with the amount of travel or how steep the pedal was, I am assuming the pedal is original but it’s location on the floor was a guess as the old floor had rotted away. There’s pictures below of the setup and I am sure there’s a simple fix for the angle of the dangle but I am stumped, any advice would be welcome. And yes before anyone says anything the floors and inside were all freshly painted last year!! It hasn’t taken long to get messy.

Picture of my spring hanger

😂 just wheels then!!

You definitely want to remove the data plate just as a wall hanger, the only salvageable parts are probably the wheels and axle

My wot6 has wot6 moulded on the spring hangers

The wot8 basically a SWB wot6, I believe the running gear is the same, looking at the body I think it’s wot6, the military reg might be able to confirm this

Looks like Fordson wot6 or wot8