Davey089

I thought about that but was after an easy fix , then again probably not an easy fix because none are available .That looks like the solution is make one.

Thanks Ron, I was debating about the Tyre pressure stencil , that's made my mind up I'll not bother . I've seen a few Jeeps with just about every stencil that's available put on them , which to me looks a bit OTT . Unfortunately Metal Magic hasn't any of the blanks on stock and is unavailable, its an item that he is looking at making in the future . The switch ,light and blank now I know what they look like is something I can look out for at auto jumbles. Dave

Thanks Ron , I was wondering about the transfers another job made easier . I've tried to source a blank for the headlight but had no luck, I rang Metal Magic but its something he is considering doing in the future. Dave

Thanks for all the input from everyone its been very helpful .I'm also curious to know would it have had the tyre pressures on the mudguards ? I know many Jeep owners put them on but I never bothered putting them on mine , was it a standard thing done at the factory or added afterwards by an MT section . Dave

Brilliant thanks Ron ,that's one job I can now cross off my "to do" list cheers Dave

Thanks for that, every bit of info helps

Hello I can't seem to start a new post:embarrassed: so I've had to use the wanted section to as the question , but I am after a blanking plate for the headlight The question is I've seen the odd flying flea with the tips of the mudguards painted white , was this the norm or is it a one off ? Also how can I find the "C" number for the tank ............the frame and engine number match 8753 i have the original log book it show is was "demobbed" in 1946 . The plate on the mudguard reads.... Contract S6602 and the Catalogue ref no is 28 Thanks Dave

As I expected its a no go , they can't mix the colour its still far to dark . I've read that the SCC2 was used with SCC1A .I was only going to paint it with the one colour (SCC2) is this correct or do I need to use both ?.

:wow:Asking a bit too much for that ,

Good stuff

Yes, I had a problem trying to source a chain driven crank for my 42 Willys , had to revert to some careful machining of the original , happily it worked out ok :-) . I'm still going to keep my eye out for a decent spare to keep on the shelf .

I've taken the 15 ltrs I had mixed back to the paint shop , left it with them to rectify the problem (Hopefully ).I'll see what they come back with , if its a no go then its refund time and back to the drawing board :-) .

My lad took part in this ,he said it was amazing to be part of it , and it made him think !!!. Ok its a company getting its name promoted , BUT lets remember the proceeds go to the RBL . My opinion ? I thought it was damn good and well put together , credit to all those that were involved .

Thanks for all the responses . I run the Welbike on 140 after that being recommended by Villiers Services , which is like treacle I approached a friend of mine who owns a motor factor business to buy the 140 oil from him , not having it on the shelf he recommended an oil supplier/blending company who he deals with ,so I told him to sort some out . When I got the oil and looked at it , it was thinner than the Villiers Service 140 grade so I questioned it with the supplier. To cut a long story short they tested the Villiers oil (they have a lab) explained to me all the tech spec between the two oils . Basically their blended oil is obviously 140, its made so it gets around the box quicker .How he explained it was (without all the tech data , because he lost me :nut:) ............ when both oils get to temperature (he did quote actual figures but I can't remember) the blended oil stays thicker longer and doesn't break down as the std 140 would do and will also reduce drag . Taking on board what has been said I'll stick with the 140 . Thanks again for the feedback its been very helpful. Dave

Thanks Terry , I was debating whether to change it too the "modern" oil , also the maybe the gearbox ? Is there are any advantages going with the EP90 over the 140? Dave

Sorry for going over old ground here . I bought SAE 30 engine oil and 140 oil for the gearbox and diff after asking the question quite a while ago . I was told today not to use the 140 but to use Hypoid 90 for the differential , the person that told me is a well known supplier of MV truck parts . I was quite happy using my original purchase's and still am , what puzzles me is why tell me to use hypoid 90 :nut:when the majority of MV owners who have helped me no end on here use the 140. This came into conversation by mentioning to him among other things that I was washing out the Diff and refilling with fresh oil. 140 and SAE30 is the way to go ? yes or no or 90 in the diff.................I have 15ltrs of 140 lol Thanks Dave

Hi The panel in the photographs is of the original "light brown" ,the darker of the two Browns which is painted alongside is the scanned / mixed paint supplied by the paint shop . Dave

Thanks for the info , I would very much appreciate if you would let me have the details of the paint and supplier . The scanning system they now use to match paint is obviously not accurate ......not good ! Thanks again Richard its much appreciated Dave

I agree far too dark , the panel its painted onto is part of the dash panel which has the original colour showing alongside, Brown ? not sure what to do , get them to blend it by sight rather than using the modern scanner contraption , which obviously is useless .

I had the paint for the MW mixed last week , I took in a panel from the dashboard which still had the original paint on which matched the paint under the regulator, which I would assume is the original factory colour . They used one of these scanner type contraptions , scanned the panel and came up with the colour which is in the photographs :shocked: , the colour which they produced looks to me very much like Service Brown ? , any thoughts on why it came back with that particular colour after being scanned . Just a note while stripping the paint off bodywork etc ,there was a massive presence of Desert Cammo underneath the greens and browns .

NOS king pin set and front brake wheel cylinders arrived , king pin bush's fitted and reamed .Cleaned off the suspension lever arms this evening and found the dates 4/43 ,sent off the drop links to have new bush's fitted and at the same time having new seals fitted etc in the lever arms . Sent off the steering wheel to have it recast , too many cracks and splits in the Bakelite and the steel frame work needs to be cleaned of the corrosion.

07831 138408

Thanks Jules. I don't mind at all ,only too happy to help if I can . Yes the tyres , when I originally spoke to Totec they said they were expecting delivery of "track grip " tyres, when they rang me to inform they had them in stock they told me they were Bar grip:rolleyes: . Not so long back on E Bay someone sold a number of "track grip" tyres for £50.00 each........I missed the that bargain , probably someone on the forum dropped lucky on those . The new wheel cylinders and king pin set turned up today , more parts of the jigsaw to get on with . This week the wooden body is getting the cleaning treatment , then its getting down to replacing some of the "soft" timber . I'm wondering what, if anything I can use on the timber as a preservative that won't react with the paint ,or is it just a case of a good few coats of paint as no doubt the first 2/3 coats will be soaked up by the timber.

The only ones I seem to come across are in the USA , but I don't fancy paying over £30 postage , that would be great if you have a spare you would like to sell . Cheers Dave

I've been wanting to change my Ohio base for a WWII British base for a while but can't seem to find a genuine WWII British one . Asking the same question around the show's and seeing British ones fitted ,I was assured that the std Jeep mount was used .I'm going by what I have been told , whether this is 100% correct ? I'll go with it unless someone else knows different .