Ron

I think nearly all vehicles had the axle flood lamp facility. As Lex said the Lucas flood lamps are hard to find, but you can still often find the Butler ones NOS, like this one for my Tilly. I think this Lucas tail lamp might have come from Adrian?? They are usually coupled by a Bakelite junction box and change over switch, which again still seem available NOS. Ron

Yep good choice. Ron

The original tyre size was 325x19, although you can usually fit 350x19 but depending on make you might start getting close to mudguard stays etc. (Makers don't all seem to comply to the same size criteria?) You could do a lot worse than 'Vintage Tyres' I think it's free delivery? The Dunlop K70 is probably the best tyre, But the Ensign road tyre has more of a block pattern, or the Mitas are quite good and both are cheaper than the K70. I've found the K70 wears quite quickly which is probably a sacrifice for grip. I've done many miles of the cheap Mitas, and heard good reports on the Ensign's. The 350x19 Cheng Shin is an almost identical tread pattern to the K70 and I prefer them as they seem to last longer. I am currently running my M20 and BSA/Indian Special on them. http://www.vintagetyres.com/search?qs=%5B325-19%5D http://www.vintagetyres.com/search?qs=%5B350-19%5D Ron

I had a NOS carb body with jet block and float bowl donated to me. I've rebuilt it with all new parts and made up a fuel pipe which I've plated myself by tinning it with solder. Hours of fun!!?? I've also made up the oil pipes which run from the combined oil/petrol tank. More fun trying to stretch my new centre stand spring to fit over its locating pegs. Ron

I don't know for sure. I would first try 'Ace Classics' They seem to do odd stuff for Girder models. Otherwise it's a case of find the suitable size clip and then get the slot milled in. Ron

There is a 'P' clip each side on the rear tube of the forks. Typical to Triumph, it has a slot in it. The previous models with Triumph forks had a riveted on central fixing under the headlamp, but this was also backed up with the 'P' clips on the WD models. But these bikes had the clip on the front tube of the forks. Ron

Sean that is an assumption that myself and others have made. But as you say, "it's a guess" just wondering if someone might know for sure. Ron

Does anyone know for sure what the markings mean on the front mudguards of these James ML's (Looks like 1A) and similar markings on Flying Flea tanks (Looks like C1A) Ron

I picked up my pre war silencer from Armours who had kindly remade the inlet spout for me and removed the previously mounted hanging bracket. Some lining up, bending, welding and fettling and the silencer position is near as damn it to the factory picture. Ron

What was that Ferg? You're buying the burgers? I'll be there!! Get there between 8-9 for the £10 early bird entry. We're usually there at 8 and head straight for the first bacon butty bar. Ron

Well it's Tony Pearson who is a forum member at http://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/StoreClosed.htm For some reason his website says they are temporarily closed. But he still accepts emails enquiries and has sent me stencils no problem. Ron

And the infamous "6 spring clutch" now fitted. JJ made me a clutch cable from a pattern, but it's not quite right so will pick up the replacement at Kempton on Saturday. Best to try and get the clutch sorted before I put all those bloody screws in the chain case!! Ron

I presume you must have dealt with Steve Surbey by now? http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ He'll be at Kempton. I'm quite sure the cams are case hardened and probably not worth the cost of getting them ground and hardened as you can buy new ones. Steve sells standard and high lift cams as fitted to the pre war and early G3's. It's worth fitting the HL cams combined with a 276 carb to increase performance as the G3L's were starved a bit due to war economy. They often had a decompression plate fitted under the barrel too. The HL cams involve removing a little bit of material inside the timing case to allow the followers to drop down lower. Very easily done in a few minutes with a Dremmel. The original crankpins were "two Part" in other words the part that the rollers run on is pressed onto the bit that locates into the flywheels. Someone decided that this could be made in one piece. Makes sense! BUT they were made with a dead square at the step between between the two radius's and this became a fracture point and it was quite common for these pins to break. The cure was to make them with a radius in that corner and subsequently you have to make a corresponding chamfer in your flywheels. I fitted HL cams to my G3 but went back to standards due to a rattle that I thought was due to the new cams. Turned out it was just some end float rattle on one of my rocker shafts. By now I'd passed the HL cams onto a mate who fitted them in his G3L.....That bike really fly's. Even if it does smoke a lot!! You obviously have engineering skills and I wouldn't have enough knowledge to advice about mixing and machining parts to make up your big end. For me I would just fit a complete new one. (avoiding those faulty type) My G3 has a needle roller bearing fitted that was made up by a guy who made special big ends for racing and such. (now retired). Ron

I'm still waiting for my clutch plates to return from having new cork inserts fitted. But I've made up my own loom using period looking rubber cable and now have lights, horn and ignition. Quite a bit of extra wiring involved with coil ignition. I also fettled the saddle mountings to align the saddle as per the factory picture and built the bike up enough for suitable pictures to apply for my dating letter, for eventual DVLA registration. Ron

We are lucky nowadays that we have computer cut, double sided, low tack stencils available. Bit better than hand crafting them from thin card and trying to fix them so there's no paint bleed like the old days. It's still a bit of a fiddle on the double curvature of a motorcycle tank though. I boot polished the old knee grips and fitted them to some new backing plates from Russell Motors. Ron

When I've sent anything like that overseas, I've quoted it as a machine part, which is essentially what it is. Ron

Kempton Park jumble Next Sat 11th would be a good place to look/ask, if you can make it..... I'll be there. Is Windsor your location? It's nearby! Ron

NOS Austin Tilly fuel tank complete with sender unit. Crated and in perfect condition. £275. Located in Poole but could ship around using the old boys network. Tel Ron on 07771 602236. ronpier@talk21.com

Well off the bike I spray them with something like this:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E-TECH-400ML-Black-Extremely-High-Temperature-Paint-XHT-VHT-Exhaust-/271096065041?hash=item3f1e95ac11:g:oqAAAOxy2CZTYM-t But for touching up on the bike I use this:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Cylinder-Black-Paint-High-Temperature-Exhaust-Engine-Cases-250ml-/131740905935?hash=item1eac5eb1cf:g:wTYAAOSwoudW1jsn And I know guys who use paint for BBQ's and wood burning stoves. Ron

Quite so Mr B. I've even been in the shed with a fan heater at my feet a woolly gloves on, which are not conducive to fitting your 3BA headlamp switch screws!!! Original pictures of these are not that forth coming (I have a few) but especially helpful is this factory picture.....At least of the right side. Ron

May? I should have it well run in long before that Ha Ha!!?? I've had a front pipe made and Armours are making some small modifications to one of their pre-war silencers for me. Ron

I would first try Steve Surbey at http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ Ron

Chris, soda blasting is fine as it's very gentle on the metal and doesn't matter if any gets inside as it will soon wash out, unlike the risk of grit blasting. But I expect you would struggle with a home compressor. I have my own blasting cabinet but I haven't got the compressor power for anything major. I just use it for Ally or Stainless parts and take anything else to a local bloke who has the proper gear. But I never take oil or petrol tanks. I strip them myself with paint stripper first. (I bought a gallon of professional stripper from an Auto paint supplier. Modern Nitromoors is useless as it now has to be safe for a toddler to drink). After the paint stripper, I use a rope wire wheel on my angle grinder. If you look at my C10 thread you can see the results of my latest petrol tank refurb. Ron

This bloke regularly sells quite nice replicas on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WD-ARMY-CANVAS-HANDLEBAR-GRIP-7-8-BARS-NEW-DESIGN-BSA-MATCHLESS-/182458071077?hash=item2a7b593825:m:mrwD0PwZu4cQTrdEz9lCIyg Ron

Well I received some motorcycle census number stencils from Axholme today and I had some about a month ago. I'm not sure why their website is semi shut down and says they are temporary closed for business? But it does say you can email them anyway. These ones today were only ordered on Sunday. Ron