Ron

Oh yes John! No question about being forgiven. I just feel guilty and annoyed at not fulfilling the task.........I've fitted four new core plugs to head. Radiator and water pump both back this week. Just waiting on the head gasket.  Ron 

I had to let my granddaughter Matilda down from taking her to her school prom at Dorchester in my Austin Tilly, as it blew a hole in a core plug at Bere Regis. I am in the process of getting the radiator re-cored and the water pump refurbished and have commissioned  a new solid copper head gasket to be laser cut.  Total refurb of the water works!! Ron

Presumably it still has the tin primary case. An ally oil pump cover is a dead easy upgrade/modification as thousands were produced and fitted to all the pre-war and WD singles until 41/2. It's possible that it was resprayed by your local dealer, but my money's on a previous owner. Who wanted a drab old ex army green bike until they've now become so sought after? Ron

I'm not aware that Triumph did it although Royal Enfield certainly did. However some of the big dealers like Pride and Clark and Marble Arch Motors did sell bikes in ex WD trim or fully repainted into civilian trim at extra cost. But it's more than likely that your bike was  restored by a previous owner.  Ron

The very early 3HW's were being supplied with the ally oil pump cover and primary chain-case. Economies soon dictated that these items would be made from steel. Certainly by 1945 they were steel. I don't think Triumph made any single cylinder models after 1945.......Until the Tiger Cub.  Ron

The first pattern 'Lucas MCT1 (fag end) had a rubber seal, latter patterns didn't.. Late war they introduced the MCT1A (A=aperture for number plate illumination)  There was even a lens cap with a tiny pin hole red lens for extreme black out conditions. 

This first one is one of a few NOS ones that I've had, but hard to find nowadays (There are some cheap and nasty Indian copies around)   Ron

I agree about not worrying about the effects of unleaded petrol. There was a lot of hype about "valve seat recession" and a panic to get hardened valve seats installed or an additive for your fuel....or both! ....Me included!  But over the last 20 odd years I just haven't bothered with any of it. 

I am however still concerned about the effects of Ethanol (I've already suffered the consequences of de-laminated 'Petseal' in at least three tanks). To that end I do the very best I can to minimize it. Having said that, I notice that most guys I ride with think nothing of pulling into the nearest supermarket and fill up with the cheapest regular petrol.......I even took cans of my own petrol to France rather than use the French stuff (Don't tell the ferry man!) Hey Ho ..Ron the Paranoid.   

OK since I was reliably informed a couple of years ago, that the super unleaded petrol from an independent station (non supermarket) had minimal to no ethanol AT THAT TIME, I've gone out of my way to use it and so far had no problems. However I still add a drop of Frosts Ethomix for good luck.A £15 bottle will last me for a year.  Ron  

That's a repro Lucas MT110 which was a period lamp and nowadays comes with a twin filament bulb. Cheap as chips and the best way to go. A genuine MT110 can be up to £200 and more on ebay.  Ron

I'd go along with that Jon. Ron

Well as a theft proof device, it's pretty useless. I've never heard of anyone bothering to fit one to a bike. Just a fuse in the Poss cable. Ron

Ah well that's good news. 1/16" out of line is not the end of the Earth, your chain should cope with that ok,  but I would simply find/make a 1/16" washer to bring it in line anyway. Ron

Am I right in thinking that the clutch will only have one fully home position and therefore if the oil plate is holding it off, there will be some awful rubbing noises?

Here is the exploded engine from the 3HW parts list which mentions that washer as No 72. Although I can't see it listed in the shock absorber section?? Ron

It's not very obvious about that washer Gareth but it's sort of semi shown in the 3HW parts list as #E1732. Mine was missing when I built my 3HW and Brian Tillin made me one. As you say, it's quite thin, but I can't remember if it was a spacer shim to keep the splined sleeve clear of the crank case, or to help eliminate the oil passage through the main bearings? So far I haven't found it in the 1939 parts list. I'd just carry on and fit it. It will have hardly any effect on the chain run.  Ron

That's absolutely fine. I just thought that since you started the thread with pictures, you might have wanted some feed back with additional information. But now I know that you already know it all and have better things to do, I'll let you get on with it in your own fashion.  Ron Done!

OK I'm with you now. I don't think I've ever seen the two rods under the engine before. Is that an add on?

Just heads up also, you might have to watch the clearance between the saddle and toolbox (especially over any bumps) The WD frames where modified to raise the saddle and move it back to accommodate the toolbox which in turn was re-positioned under the saddle to make room for the Maze air filter. Ron

Ha Ha! You've painted it since the last picture an hour ago!!  Ron

I guess it's mostly post war civilian. Certainly the frame, front wheel, head/tail lamps and foot rests. If you count the teeth on the rear sprocket WD =35T ..Civy = 34T.  Any idea of engine number?

BTW I know you've only loosely hung it, but the front wheel goes the other way round🙂

Ron

From what I can see in the exploded views in the parts list and manual, the surface should be flat. I think I'd take it to a competent welder and get it TIG welded and surface ground back to the original shape, Even experienced use of a sander and file would do it. Either that, or if the wear depth is even, a thrush washer of the required thickness in two halves could be used and somehow fixed/spot welded in place. I guess the two grooves are for oil exit of the big end and will need to be preserved. A good all round precision engineer will think of a way round it!

Is the other side the same?  Ron

I would try Steve Surbey http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ or Les at Russell Motors 02072281714.

BTW it's a G3L.  Ron

Gareth there is a thrust button in the clutch pressure plate with a blind hole that I put a blob of grease in before assembly. The adjuster at the other end of the push-rod has a ball end. Both are available from Draganfly (look under pre unit twins, they're all the same)  Ron

The old cork plates seemed to need oil, but the modern Surflex plates that are supplied these days for most bikes will work dry.

Good luck with the M20.....My favourite old plodders! I've just built a 600cc engine in this old bone for a friend. It started first kick, only to find that the cush drive spring is wrong or knackered. Kicking myself now for not trying it before I buttoned up the blooming primary case.😡

Ron

It's not so much about the plates, it's more about lubrication and cooling the chain and oiling the clutch bearing. Having said that, I've run my special dry for 1000's of miles, which is a dry clutch anyway, But I have a special chain and air cooling and spray chain lube.  Ron

Duke I think the top one with the smaller spline is what was fitted to the 250 models (D,S,SF etc) and is exactly what I originally fitted to my experimental DC which is a 350. (first 3 pix)

I soon realized that it should have had the bigger cush drive clutch, (4th pic) and like you went on the hunt for the spider with the small spline. I was also thinking of getting one made but fortunately an old RE bloke had one which he donated.

I wonder if you would actually notice a difference without the cush?

For instance, the special I built, which is a effectively a BSA M20 with a much more powerful Indian 741 engine fitted has no cush ( nore dose an Indian 741 in it's natural form,) and I can't say I notice any difference. Likewise when my M20 first came to me 30 odd years ago, a previous owner had locked the cush drive and I rode it without knowing for a while.  

Not the end of the earth to give it a try and swap it at a later date.  Ron

Here it is on my 3HW. But it's not always there. Sometimes it's a repeat of the frame number and sometimes there is nothing.