R Cubed

Aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Inches and mm Aghhhhhhhhh which is which ;-) !!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;-) Ok so it all should be in inches, thats great, am aware about AF being across flats and also that the head does not relate to the bolt diameter, thanks for making the mud a bit clearer. R Cubed

An interesting point, you say about it not being metric so what sizes did they use, I have found metric to be a better fit on some bits. If not metric why was the Howitzers barrel 105mm !!!!!!!!!! Not being awkward but am very interested in the correct nuts and bolts that would have been used when building these sorts of trucks ?? R Cubed

Right then, main centre hub nuts, the ones which holds all the wheel bearings on and also the lock nut which are under the hub drive flange are 83 mm across flats going by my vernier, sorry to be the bringer of bad news but reacon its the next box spanner up from the one you have :-D R Cubed

Only info I have was from Spring 2006 Winscreen mag !! its all in there, cant scan and post due to copyright........

Dur I must be dum, yes, I now see what you are on about. I am in the processes of doing king pin bearings on my 352 so I could wip off the drive flange at the weekend and measure it for you !!!!!!

The square nuts are 20mm across the flats mught need something a little bigger to fit.

Nope I never got any e-mails either !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well done on the new site :-) Thought something had gone badly wrong as I have not been able to find this for several days, but well done and keep it up... Only thing is the pages seem to be shifted over off the right side of the screen so to be able to see the whole of the forum pages you need to scroll right to move the page over so you can see it all dont know if you are aware of this or is it me !!!!! R Cubed

The front wheel square nuts accross the flats I think are about 1 1/4" will check tomorrow and let you know for sure, far tooo cold to go out there now. R Cubed

Ahhhhhh :-D

If you are talking about splitting the actual carb it will probably be the float in the float chamber jamming on the sides if this is the case try removing the whole carb from inlet manifold and shaking gently as you split the two bits !!!!!!! Watch out for bits falling out mainly the float valve and float hinge pin but depends on the type of carb .... R Cubed

Yea but £100,000 for a house boat well some house boat, might have trouble getting into a river, it could be the groups verhicle storage place and also transport to france !!!! seem to think it is about 350 Ft long will try to find some pics and spec . R Cubed

Back in 2005 attended a Village show in Petersfield Hants and I had the honour of transporting the band around the route in the truck as they played, quite a feat they said afterwards, by the way the pic is of the band about to get out they were sitting down on route. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/D4100002edit.jpg[/img] R Cubed

Dont do this, this is how mine were when I bought my truck and trust me they are FAR TO SMALL in this day and age, had several close calls when people think you are going one way and you are actually going the other. What I have done is get a set of truck rear lights and wire them up to a trailer plug and then put a trailer socket up under the back of the truck out of site and on the lights fix to rear mud guards with wing nuts, get to show un plug lights spin off wing nuts and they are gone.. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/Rearlight.jpg[/img] Also did this at the front with a indicator and side light combination going to a trailer socket under the bonett on the bulkhead. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/Frontindicators.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/FrontIndandsidelight.jpg[/img] Hope this is of help. R Cubed

Well I have a short wheelbase GMC and I am after a blank firing 105mm to tow behind my truck, I have been in touch with this person and he has sent me a couple of pics of the guns, severly de-milled though :cry: :cry: R Cubed

Oooopppps forgot to say the coil I used was a Lucas one from an old style not electronic ignition Jag well it is a 6 pot and about the same cc ? works for me....... For indicators I used the wiring diagrams from a old Range Rover and also the Hazard switch as it is a panel mount one it is an easy thing to fit to a Jimmy, also used all the flasher relays ect from a Range Rover, now I have hazard lights for when I break down...

Do it, the problem with 6 volts is you only need some dodgy connections and you soon loose valuable volts to the coil, for instance I was loosing 1.5 volts just accross the ignition switch !!!! couple that with the volt drop at cranking and I was down to 3.5 volts at the coil not good when you could do with 6 for the coil to make a nice fat spark... also if you get a situation where the 6 volt bat goes flat what do you do ( push start it, I think not ). With a 12 volt set up you can just get a jump start if needed. you can add good bright rear lights and even halogens in the front head lights, I know its not original but if you are going to lots of trouble to restore it and then drive it to shows on our crazey fast roads you need all the help you can when you can only drive at 45 MPH MAX. I had this problem about 2 years ago and after lots of uming and aring I went for it and its great starts first time what ever the weather cold, damp ect...and you can keep the starter motor all you change is the dynamo to an alternator sort out the fuel gauge and there you go. R Cubed

Hi try going to the Blog bit of this forum you will see what I have done to my steering box, any questions please ask. R Cubed

Duckhams Keenol I have used this for years, think this is no longer available but try this link !!! http://marinestore.co.uk/page/mrst/PROD/misc--oils-and-greases/MT68213/ R Cubed

Ok bit of an update to the steering box sarga, I have removed the plane bronze bearings from the steering box along with the cork oil seal on the cross shaft, and will be getting some new ones. For what ever reason if you want to take the toothed block off the steering worm you need to remove the two recirculating ball tubes and then all the balls dont loose any !!!! These two tubes are split in half so you have 4 bits these are all the same and does not matter which way round they go into the holes, as long as they go between 1 and 2, 3 and 4. The number of balls you get out must be split in half, there should be 106 in total, one set of balls goes in hole No1 untill they start coming out of hole No2, NOTE you must make sure that no balls run across the top of the worm in hole 1 or hole 2, then the remaining balls go in the split tube, then this fits in to holes 1 and 2, the balls are now traped and can not escape if some do they have got over the top of the worm,you have to start again. then repeat this for holes 3 and 4. NOTE you must make sure that no balls run across the top of the worm in hole 3 or hole 4.

On one of the days we were parked air side on the track and at the end of the day managed to park our truck between a Spit and a P51 Mustang and got a good few pics of that, dont think that will ever happen again, what a glorious weekend. One to remember for ever. R Cubed

Thanks Jack, dont get much in the way of pics and explanations of the repairs people have done so I thought as this looks like a active forum I would start, so to try and build up articles of how something comes apart and what is in it. The problem I had was much over 35 MPH I would get severe wheel wobble to the extent that the only way to stop it was to break hard and then carry on slower, I have traced this down to several things, the main one I think is the steering king pin bearings on the swivels, the bottom bearings having stamp marks in the outer shell in the straight ahead position this leading to excessive play in each wheel, but also found when turning the road wheels left and right when jacked up, that the actual cross shaft which comes through the chassis rail from the steering box was moving forwards and backwards not just rotating !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! R Cubed

How about "THE" Murray Walker. We were invited to attend the 1st Goodwood Revival meeting and were entailed to run V.I.P.'s from an assembly point where they were droped off by car to the main Marque inside the circuit, part of the journey involved traveling on the actual circuit so my trucks been on the Goodwood track !!! One set of guests we droped off as we where unloading I helped a man down only to look up and it was Murray Walker, well cooool. R Cubed

This is a job I carried out 4 or 5 years ago. The bearing part numbers are all Timken bearings and this set are for The wheel bearings on a SPLIT AXLE truck: so here you are. Front axle. Inner bearing nearest diff. inner part of bearing 33275 outer part of bearing 33472 Outer bearing nearest tyre. inner part 399-A outer part 394-A Both rear axles. Inner bearing nearest diff. inner part 395 outer part 394-A Outer bearing nearest tyre. inner part 387 outer part 382 Once I find the old ones I will confirm these are correct part numbers. The next set are for the King pin bearings on the front axle: These part numbers are for SPLIT AXLES and BANJO AXLES There are 4 bearings ( 2 each side ) inner part 41125 outer part 41286

Right then this is what's inside your steering box. The red shaft is the one from the steering wheel ( steering shaft ) this has a worm grove cut in it at the end and a block fits over this which also has a worm grove cut in it, between the two groves there are ball bearings, these are fitted and removed by taking out the two steel tubes on top of the block and removing the balls then the block can slide off the steering shaft worm. These types of steering boxes are know as recirculating ball steering boxes, because the balls in the worm groves recirculate around the steel tubes !! This was a great advance when the trucks were designed and was a key selling feature of them as it was like having power steering. The cap at the end of the steering shaft is the one at the bottom of the steering box The large adjusting slot and lock nut are only for adjusting slack/play in the steering shaft ( so only up and down movement on the steering wheel ) The only other shaft ( the cross shaft ) is the one which pokes out through the chassis rail and has the large drop arm on it. The crescent gear meshes with the block gear on the steering shaft, this cross shaft is fitted in the steering box in plane bronze bushes these are prone to wear and gives play in a front to back movement by the drop arm ( my problem ) the cap at the engine side of the box allows the cross shaft to be adjusted from left to right in the box and enables some play to be removed between the two sets of gears, I think have not confirmed this yet R Cubed