g0ozs

Richard MoT testers certainly used a rolling road for my first SUMB which was registered so as to require a class VII M0T but that had a selectable 2/4 wheel drive system and was always in 2WD for the test. I can't see how a constant 4x4 vehicle can be tested that way and any independent movement of front and back wheels must be due to slack in the drive train or the action of a differential ? I think the question I would ask is how far he was able to turn the jacked up wheel. I'm not an expert on RB44 but reading your account I share your concern ! Regards & good luck Iain

Tim Welcome to the forum Iain 73 de G0OZS

This week I have refitted the original fuel tank. First paint the tank, supports, and chassis that will be inaccessible once it is fitted: Tape webbing round the tank to replace the original felt padding under the straps Fit the straps to the fuel tank supports Bolt the supports to the chassis Finally mount the tank on its supports and tighten the straps

I had a similar problem after taking my first SUMB to a pressure washer after I first brought it home - I eventually found a leak where the fuel filler pipe joined the tank, and got quite a lot of water out after letting the tank settle and draining it. Iain

An update on my 2013 post - the SUMB I am working on now was fitted by the previous owner with a Volvo D24T engine (actually made by VW) ex 760 estate and its auto box as a unit. The interfaces to the original vehicle are just the drive shaft to the transfer box and the belt drive to the compressor for the air-over-oil brakes. This engine is actually a close relative of the Pinzgauer TD engine and works quite well - it's a little underpowered (90hp) and a little lower geared compared with a healthy Ford Flathead V8 (110hp) but much better than a poorly V8 that I have experienced previously. The main issue which the previous owner didn't completely address as he used it off road was that the D24T starter and alternator are 12V but the SUMB was 24V so I need to convert to 12V lights and fit a 12 to 24V converter for the instruments and wiper motor before driving it home - see my restoration topic for updates ! Iain

More from the Woolpit Steam Rallly

Very nice Hotchkiss M201 display at Woolpit Steam Rally If the owner wants to get in touch it would be nice to arrange for my SUMB and the M201 to park together at some local show next year once the SUMB is restored to a presentable condition

Here are some photos taken earlier this afternoon at the Woolpit Steam Rally

(Actually last Thursday) at the Suffolk Show

I did much the same as Snort with my SUMB which otherwise has a very saggy tilt and big puddles overhead - I used 1" x 1/4" wooden battens laid over the hoops to stop large pools forming - 6 at 1' intervals width wise across the SUMB (about 72" wide across the body as it happens) seemed to keep the puddles at bay. I drilled the wood either side of each hoop and put a cable tie round with the sharp head scratching join at the top - those minded to use materials in keeping with the vehicle age could I guess use cord and tie it. Once the tilt is on the weight and tension of the tilt keeps the battens in place anyway. Hope this helps Iain

Bedford RL Light Recovery "Somewhere in East Anglia" very nice to see: I've hopefully removed anything that will identify the location Iain

Got the fuel tank supports back from shot-blasting (I used http://suffolkblastclean.com/shot.html at Stonham Aspal) today: I was surprised to find that the rust had eaten all the way through in places - I think I will need to get fresh metal welded on if they are to last another 5 decades, but they will get the tank back on and the truck home first.

Passed a very nice AFS marked Bedford RL heading east out of Stowmarket this morning. Definitely a better choice for the weather than my car Iain

Terry Pinouts at: Audio: http://www.g0ozs.org/clansman/audio.shtml Harness: http://www.g0ozs.org/clansman/boxes.shtml The 12 pin leads are simple pin A to Pin A etc so easy to wire. I am not sure about the rubber seals you have been supplied as I have never had the luxury of a NOS connector yet Iain

Mike Thanks for the diagram. The Pinz seems to have 2 groups of 3 heaters (Vorgluehanlage) with a 50A fuse each - the existing electrics as I found the conversion look a bit under-rated now ! On investigation elsewhere the Bosch glow plug used seems to be rated at 12 amps. Iain

Mike The TD Pinz wiring diagram would be useful. The vendor of my SUMB fitted a D24T ex Volvo 740 with an auto box (necessary because the D24 is much longer than the original ford V8 and the manual gear lever would be too far behind the driver). The antenna support is interesting - I have never seen one like that on a SUMB -it looks like it is intended to clamp over the top of a tube around 25-30mm diameter. I have seen something similar on a P4 but not mounted that way. It looks quite modern - possibly from RITA (the French Ptarmigan) rather than a combat net radio. In all the photos and MAT documents I have seen in the 80s and 90s the SUMB had the antenna base for TR-PP-13 or RITA mounted to an angle bracket behind the door on each side of the cab - my new one is drilled for those both sides and I have one (and a suitable antenna) in stock. The original 1960s American radio fit (VRC9/VRC10/VRC18) had metal poles at the four corners of the body which had old jeep-style antenna bases mounted to a flat plate at the top - see http://www.g0ozs.org/marmon for some photos. The French did use a sectional steel mast that bolted to the front bumper of the SUMB and was about 6 metres high - I wonder if this was intended to fit the more modern antennas at the top of the mast ? I have always been put off Leboincoin by my lack of French - I studied German at school and worked in Germany for a while so should have got interested in mogs Does one just click the "Envoyer un email" link and try to compose a message with the help of google translate ? Regards Iain

Can anyone with access to an unmodified SUMB post a photo of the attachment of the jerry can holder to the chassis please ? - I have the jerry can holder from the SUMB that I am buying but it is one of the detached pieces. I can't work out how the channel iron that curves under and behind the boxes that hold the cans is attached to the chassis - certainly I can't see any holes to match - so I think there is a missing piece. Thanks in advance Iain

More questions in the hope of advice from those who have done similar jobs before: Before refitting the original fuel tank (which was used with Petrol for the V8) I need to clean it. Does anyone have any experience of using a former petrol tank for diesel - I think it's had more than a year to dry out and I cant hear anything solid rattling around inside (so half suspect the fuel gauge float will be stuck as it was on my old SUMB until I went over a speed bump ) Is it better to use hot water & detergent or clean petrol or clean diesel ? Does anyone know the current rating of typical diesel heater plugs? This engine is a Volvo (Volkswagen) D24T similar to that in the Pinzgauer TD I think. The relay I bought is good for 200A but the existing wire looks a bit thin (2.5mm sq I think). What is the current rating of the starter motor solenoid ? I bought a new ignition key switch rated at 8 amps - will I need a relay ?

I've now received salvage fuel tank supports and straps from RR Services (thanks Kerry!) I also have some NOS Bedford straps which I will probably get shortened and use instead of the originals Does anyone know a sandblaster around Bury St Edmunds, Ipswich or Stowmarket who could clean up the tank supports for me ? It would seem a pity not to take the chance to paint them properly prior to fitting ! Iain

The diesel transplant changed the electrical system from 24V to 12V and most of the instruments and lighting were disconnected (as the new Volvo/Volkswagen D24T engine has 12V sensors). The diesel also occupies some of the space formerly used by the main fuse box/junction box of the SUMB to the left of the engine. To address the problem I've now made up a relay box and fuse box to fit over the absent gear lever hole and on the front bulkhead respectively. The next visit will be to install these in the truck next week some time I hope. Relay Box (includes main MIDI fuses for all non-starting loads): Cable entry via floor for power from battery and to engine solenoid, pump and fan Cable exit via flexible conduit to fuse box Fuse Box to fit on front panel to right of dash board M6 holes will be attachment to bulkhead and the bolts will double as earth studs as there is good rust free metal there. Cables with waterproof plugs at far end go to to dashboard boxes (air, meters, switches) through glands 4th gland is for cable to lighting junction box in engine compartment Small glands for 2 wire cables to wiper motor and floor button dip switch Relays are for headlights as original switches were for 24v so may not handle 2 x current at 12V 2 x Hella/DIN 16A sockets on front panel

Of the scrap man doing something this year ?

Mike Yes they did - I think they cut back their stock in the recent move though. Definitely worth giving Kerry at RR Services a call though because they are still dismantling SUMBs for spares Iain

Mark Find a Simca SUMB that is beyond repair but has an original engine - they had a 4.2l version of the ford flat head manufactured as recently as the late 60s and certainly no earlier than 1959. Even a roadworthy one will struggle to reach £2K these days so I would have thought your budget might stretch to one. There are some differences around the gear box to engine join but they are widely used as replacement/upgrade engines for pre war V8 cars in the USA. Regards Iain

David That is the loudspeaker gun control I mentioned earlier - thanks for finding the item on e-Bay ! Diana I doubt any ex-Mod equipment will be exactly hi-fi ? Having said that 1940s music would mostly be 78rpm gramophone or AM radio so probably only a little better anyway (I admit to having first listened to music in that format so almost anything seems hi-fi to me ...) Iain

PS a postscript on mirrors - the ones fitted are not original and one needs a new glass - does anyone recognise what they came from so I can see what E-Bay has to offer ?