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About horrocks

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  1. Yes. Are you able to elaborate? We had one stolen about 4 years ago. You never know.
  2. No, repairing the existing. Its a bit thin in places behind the rear floor fold. I've done a couple of repairs, one to go.
  3. I bit the bullet. Getting the correct measurement was hair-raising, as there is little to work on. In the end I did triangulations from the grab-handle bolt hole centres, but even then I had to bridge a fairly wide gap with the mig as a result of the compression/stretching on the damaged rear three quarter. I guess I could have repaired the damaged bit, but I'm short of time. Very happy with this. Test fit; Thanks for the help and tips. Toby
  4. The axe/shovel area will of course be good for another tub, so it will be a perfect case of 'two birds with one stone', but the thought of cutting it is still making me wince.
  5. Hi Richard. I actually have one, the full panel from the middle to the back. The trouble is that it was so expensive, and is so beautiful, that I don't want to cut it!
  6. Driver's side. I'm restoring a jeep that's had a crunch there. From mid-wheel arch to back-panel join. An outsider, I know, but worth a shot.
  7. I've got one. Philippine, 1990s.
  8. I ended up going for an MDJuan piece. You have to completely remove and refabricate the fairly complex inboard profile, as it is nothing like the original. Fortunately I have a good original on an unrestored Jeep that I was able to use as a pattern.
  9. It is for a project that needs to be completed for Normandy. Joe's aren't manufacturing again yet, and all the usual dealers seem to be out of stock. Don't care if it's Ford or Willys, just would prefer not to go MDJ. Good French manufacture would be acceptable too.
  10. Steve, many thanks toby@blackdogwines.co.uk would be grateful.
  11. I have a late Willys ACM1 tub that I am restoring, and it has had the glovebox cut away, so looking for donor parts. If anyone has a scrapper tub, let me know. I don't think it needs to be an ACM1, any MB/GPW tub post slat.
  12. The French colour is referred to as Khaki 'Otan'. Jeep Est are said to have a very close match to correct OD, so they should be good for Otan. Jeep Sud Est are excellent too. You will find it difficult to match your colour though, as it has a lovely faded patina. I would actually suggest you try a sample of Jeep Est's US Olive Drab mix, as I suspect it might be a much closer match.
  13. Interesting that the unloved 13/18th turret numbering style rather closely resembles that on German tanks, which must surely have been potentially hair-raising.
  14. All the Jeep panels that Jeep Sud Est have are French made, and as good as you will get, superior to the albeit much-improved MDJuan kit. I visited their warehouse a couple of years ago, very impressive, very knowledgeable. I think the only MDJ part that they keep is the rad grill, which they reckon to be superior. I bought a French windscreen from Tony Sudds some years back, but I don't know whether it was MDCAB (the French manufacturer) or NOS Hotchkiss. It was however perfect. I think you will find this part to absolutely fine.
  15. May be of interest to the many members in Essex, on Thursday 13th November Graeme Cooper, a retired career Royal Green Jacket, a founder member of the Guild of Battlefield Tour Guides, and John Cooper's son, will be giving an illustrated talk on his father's career in the wartime S.A.S, and his postwar exploits in Malaya and Oman. Johnny Cooper started out as David Stirling's driver, taking part in most of the famous operations in North Africa as well as Operation Houndsworth in France during the summer of 1944. In 1945 he took part in the liberation of Belsen. When the S.A.S was reformed he r
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