Rover8FFR

Is it possible that different manufacturers have different tones. Similar to different batches, but more noticeable like your image.

It may be that 2 different manufacturers have a 'Sky Blue' but when next to each other they clash?????

I know this happens in construction between paint and powder coating, same colour different outcome and a noticeable outcome!!!!!!!!!!

That may explain it.

On a seperate issue I will be cleaning down my 2286 engine V soon with some brush cleaner etc, before I start to get her fettled with new core plugs etc and then concentrate on rewelding S3 bellhosuing crossmember in from old chassis once repaired etc.

I have noticed that the engine paint in Sky Blue has cracked and flaked away in places. Not sure that grit blasting the whole engine is correct and wondered how people had overcome irregularities in paint layers when recoating an engine?

It has been well scribed that a grease gun and indeed grease is not the correct lubrication product or method.

Whilst I believe the 'Andy 5000 high pressure lubrication system' is the thing to have I would like to know what is the end attachment that actually clamps on and delivers the fluids.

I have a Sealey Catalaogue in hand that appears to cover every Automotive requirement from small car to major garage workshop.

Can anyone help with the end nozzle on the 'Andy 5000' or explain if such old fittings are not catered for anymore unless you have the old tools/ didpensers to start with??????

Thanks

Well I didn't get to add the parafin/ kerosene in the end, just left soaking in diesel for a week.

After some liberal taps around the mantle with a hammer the towing jaw seperated company and isn't to badly pitted or corroded internally. A lot of gunge did ouse out though so suspect held tight with crud and light rust.

Didn't need to boil in a bucket, but the next stubborn item....Who knows......

Mind you some of the PIG parts might need a soak in a dustbin not a bucket due to size and all that!

I guess the washing off of diesel and the like before painting etc is another GUNK or similar treatment......

Mind you sugar soap is quite effective before painting items as a preparation and degreaser.......

I have some pint brush cleaner that Clive mentioned so will try that on the engine of the lightweight first. Its says harmfull on bottle, but water rinseable, so suspect fine once diluted and att that good stuff.

Yey!

Wayne the extractors will be well worth the money. I would also take some sort blowtorch to help free things you don't want to destroy & a fire extinguisher (I prefer CO2 rather than talcum powder). Do you have a mains source? A grinder & a halogen lamp will be useful.

 

If you do connect batteries then only push the earthy -ve connector on just in case the loom starts to go up in smoke & you can quickly disconnect. One of those cheap Hella type isolators will fit conveniently in the box side holes. I prefer to isolate the earth line because if you isolate the +ve a touch of the spanner on any of the 3 non-earth terminals to the case will cause sparks to fly. But with the earth lead switched off you can work on the other 3 terminals with impunity.

 

Take far too many photos, even of things that do not look that important, they may be useful later.

 

Yes wise to not use the tanks & side step not just because of leakage but gunge in the switch & filter.

 

Take something waterproof & thickish to lie on, & when stretching & rolling underneath I would advise strong under pants & an overall that is a little too large to avoid discomfort/difficulties in movement (& elsewhere) when you stretch your arms out. Keep your mouth shut to avoid ingesting, spiders, crud etc the lips will provide some protection for teeth against a falling spanner. I am told it is easier to suture a lip than cope with a smashed tooth. Wear some headgear to keep oil, gunge, spiders off your head & affords some protection. Wear some eye protection from falling particles of crud, I have sterile eyewash in a pack at hand. Always get up slowly when emerging from underneath it is easy to end up head banging on a door you forgot was open.

Clive all very useful advice from I guess a man who has encountered all the things you have mentioned.

I will have mains power and was going to take the 4" grinder. I have a propane blow lamp that is very good indeed and portable...I think it's a Primus type!

Disposable gloves, over gloves and face mask / eye protection is always used when grinding etc. I will take my Combat Bobhat just for effect.

Very useful fact about loose fit negative terminal........I will ultimately fit an isolator...........

Fire extinguisher.....God Forbid, but Yes! A must........

An old Poncho is a good tool for lying on and waterproof!

I don't have thick woven underpants, so may wear 2 or even 3 pairs to suit terrain. Extra padding on the hips etc.

As for eating spiders I have lost count how many insects I will have injested whilst 'Bashering Out' over the years!!!

I will go also armed with that most valuable of items in the toolkit...........A large pack of Baby Wipes.......Good for little emergencies also........Especially if I can't get the three pairs of pants off in time.....Ooops!

Not despondant at all Clive :-D

I know what you mean about the Convoy light.....I noticed that....:nut::nono::banghead::angry I expected you to pass judgement

As a rule haven't used Bing as it was rubbish when it was first released by MS. Can I assume it has got better over time??

Apologies to anyone if I have posted a bygone link.......All harmless as I educate myself on the Old Porker :cool2:

I will be taking some time off in March and will be spending some time with the PIG...... I wanted to get another battery etc and see how she would fare with an attempt to turn her over. After dropping some light oil down the cylinders of course etc, so as to get some blood through her vains etc......

I was going to isolate fuel supply first until I know state of tanks internally and fuel lines etc............

I will also be doing some cosmetic work and removing items that need removing such as lights etc and external trim......

My set of Irwin bolt extractors are on the way..........I will also take copious amounts of rags and penetrating oil etc.....

Should be an enjoyable time and opportunity to update photos. Oh and of course photo the torsion bar brackets If I am lucky!

Doing some surfing and came across this site. All in German, but some nice images

http://www.panzerbaer.de/types/uk_fv1611-a.htm

Enjoy :-D

Thanks Tony

Hi all. When applying for a new regisration and V5c the application needs to be "approved " by a DVLA nominated person.Anyone know the contact details of who would do ex wd vehicles in the West Midlands?

Rgards Andy

Andy you need the vehicle inspectorate from the MVT to assist you and provide a letter, with official stamp etc....Thats who did it for me PIG.

They stillwa nted to see the vehicle though, which was an epic task......

After speaking to supervisor dated photos of chassis/data plate and a Rub/ etching of data plate will overcome....

All Hassle though!

Every DVLA office appears to be different and you could start a thread every week on everyones experiences........

Best of luck :-D

Would echo the comment about the user manual and the illustrated parts catalogue, both are invaluable and readily available, published by brooklands i think? Also if you are not mechanically minded the haynes manual and the LR series restoration book, also by haynes can be useful...

Defo....A lot of people get phased by the lightweight, but it is a typical landrover in many respects and 'All But' some individual features follows the principals of all the civi LR series 2a or 3's as covered in the Haynes Manual..............

Good Shout Timbo

Jeremy in the bits you bought was 'Metal Ready' included. I used that some years ago and it almost returned metal to as new shiny steel etc, albeit didn't lose the pitting effect of decay!

It was a great product with small parts where they could be immersed and kept wet.

I guess as a preparation before primer and top coat it almost acts as a cold Galv base. Not total protection but gives another layer beneath the paint process etc.

Regarding Paints I have also been made aware of a French paint supplier who trades through a Hardware shop in Tewkesbury that sell 'Deproma' that far excells the 'Smoothrite' product in so many ways and takes on board marine technology as it can be painted onto wet rusty steel.

The Importer states;

"Deproma Rustproof is a heavy duty maintenance paint which functions like traditional primer, undercoat and topcoat. Based on oil absorbent, water displacement technology, it can be applied directly to damp, greasy and rusty steel surfaces"

Have you heard of 'Deproma' paints??

I painted the tow bar frame on my Land Rover Discovery some 12 months ago as it was showing rust and pitting. I over painted it with a brush and the finish is still intact and bomb proof regarding wear, so would be ideal for chassis black I guess.

It comes in quite a few standard shades that would be top coatable. Unlike Smoothrite, as it is oil based it takes top coats much better, which has to be good

Finally....please keep it military!

Oh Yes Please.............That is the important bit about a 1/2-Ton or any military vehicle...........

If you want to trick up a landie then best buy an old Range Rover Classic as they are cheap as chips and epic off road with some stuff bolted on!

Over the years far too many lightweights have gone down the trialer/ fat tyres route and the preservation of such a vehicle is lost.

Don't forget the Lightweight was not a civilian land rover and therefore in some respects for land rover like the 101 FC was as iconic in military terms as the Jeep to Willis and Ford...........

24v landies are robust and most of the 24v bits were common to series 2 and 3 90 amp landies etc......So that should not scare you.

For a first purchase you want a sound runner with solid bulkhead. Top vent panel and above average chassis. All of these are repairable, but at expense!

However being a member of this forum, Lightweight Landrover Forum and Ex Military Land Rover Forum will help you gain the knowledge and obtain good spares at sensible money as we all try to look after one another!

The Mark Cook book is an excellent purchase and quite invaluable for a Lightweight owner. After that the user handbook is the day to day bible.

If you buy one PM me as I have a complete set of parts lists for the S111 that will be a God send to you in the future on parts..............

Best of luck and dont let my album images scare you off............

Diesel and Parafin has been muted as an easing penetrant!

 

Is there a particular mix ratio that works best please??

 

Cheers :-D

I am amazed this didn't get me an answer and advice. :-(:-(:-(:-( :cry::cry:

Still sloshing marine clean around tank leaving it in a different position every 8 hrs roughly to try to get the last gunk out, I did not buy the petrol tank kit as such as I did not want the petrol preservative stuff and wanted larger quantities of cleaner/ sealer ect glad I did as I have used a gal of the stuff and have a gallon of of prep to use next.

RR I guess that you only need the full kit if you have a tank leak to overcome!

Once you remove all that gunk mind you it is possible that you could uncover one in a seam???? :nut::nut::nut:

Oh no, no, not DEB. When I mentioned DEB I had my tongue in my cheeks, what you have is Sky Blue BSC381C 101.

Well its going to be Black anyway

That foo par was like me saying Clansman and I knew damn well it was Larkspur..........Easily done I guess.

Besides I would say more turqoise than sky blue.......:whistle:

I have often wondered about the Marine clean product as it supposed to be fantastic at cleaning the wierd and wonderful gunk and stains from boats etc.

For those wanting to know more;

http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-marine-clean-3-78-litres.html

I guess it is a more severe product than Gunk as it cuts through the varnish effect that is created over time from fuel.

Keep us posted on your shiny inards RR :shocked: :shocked: :blush: :red:

Without opening the floodgates. You have seen the rear from a previous thread you posted on Gens. Possibly EMLRA?

Plate painted out currently in duck egg blue, which I hope to carefully remove.

Always received mine........PC settings I guess????:nut:

Pic. of internal wiring and basic wiring.

Very Helpful and thanks Wayne

Oooo like the sound of that......

Black it will be and I had better learn that reply sentance off by heart.

The slip ring end and screw heads / paint suggest not opened up......I hope.

I used sugar soap and that worked well.

Would REME have painted over data plate????

You sure have a collection of parts there!

I have here a started thread on the URS with a few detail pics of the internal battery stowage trays etc. battery connection leads etc. and a few other pics. I have not updated for some time, I must as the unit is now out of the Landi. Too dark now for good pics. Next chance Fri., just post what detail you want first and I will do my best as time/light allows.

Sorry dont know how to add link.

Cheers mate.

Its basically the internal views for the trays and battery tubs et, etc, etc........

I have the complete base, but all parts are not fitted completely inside and loose, so wanted to check to be sure!

The image in Mark Cooks book and another lead from Mike is great for externals..........

Wayne

 

That cable rest is not Clansman, wrong connector type. That be the connector for Larkspur cables.

Only know this as some kind person told me. As I acquired some wings of a late 109 which had some.

 

Mike

Of course......It has both......Larkspur in engine bay and Clansman in wingtop locker..........

Sorry for error and thanks for clarification.....Feel very silly now :red:

Already done that !!! front and rear seats plus bumper in the front bedroom and clutch, gearbox and various other panels in the spare :wow: other oddsnsods inc seat covers are in the attic think I may be pushing my luck !!! though am taking the front axle bash plates down t'shed today, suns shining jeep thing needs a run any excuse :cool2:

 

Yes had to keep an eye on me mate to stop him drinking the wrong stuff the letraset I used came from epay its called RDCO130 3mm white, after fixing tranfers its best to use a clear laquer over to protect but you must use spray type as if you try to brush it on you smudge the lettering grrrrrrrrrrrr !

Oh Dear and thanks.........I did suspect sprayed laquer was the was to go...........

I hope the run in the Jeep goes well. You picked a stinking day for it

Also I know I have been told these are waterproofed, but has anyone ever cleaned up one of these before please? :-|

Want to clean before it is possible to receive more paint. I was thinking Sugar Soap!

Regards

I was stripping one of the wings today to remove all ancills and clips etc and front headlight section.

Whilst my son was having a nap i started to clean up the 'rest' coaxial supports for the clansman leads that are fitted inside the engine bay inner wings.

I noticed some yellow paint that is over the DBG so not primer and also I noted some also on the wing top when doing some sanding between the ATU position and headlight....

Does anyone have any ideas what it would have been for. Looks to have been hand painted???????

The coaxial socket came up a treat with some fine wire wool and all krap and paint was easily removed to reveal markings.

Cheers

Very sorry to hear of your loss. Condolences to your family and friends.