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Posts posted by Rover8FFR
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I noticed take-off Series 2 24v wiper motors £100 EACH!
If they were sold at that price then that is a scary issue on supply not meeting demand. I have had 3 24v wiper motors over the years repaired by alternator and generator repair companies as just an electric field with a link for return so repairable if you know the old school repair companies etc.
It can be quite expensive, but less than £100 a shot.
I am surprised by that as they have appeared and sold on HeHeBay for less in the recent past.
I have been snapping up starter motors when they look serviceable for future repair over the years. They are now being offered on HeHeBay for £95 Buy it Now prices????????????????
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I hate to say it but does that suggest that the old series stuff is becoming scarser to find and now overun by the modern deemed classics that are range rovers and discoveries.
I guess some old LR from the 60's and 70's must be deemed Vintage now!
How did A&A get on with there items...Did they shift those rims and were they Ferret??
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Just wondering how those that went got on and were any good deals done.....
Post up details of that bargain or hard to find item, that has taken you years to aquire????
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I noticed some letters on the Cans on the outside of Fv1611a and they had initials like mentioned after the WD and date.
All 3 are from the 50's so next time will take a note of letters.
I might be wrong but all 3 could be different manufacturers initials????
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Okay I bet I get an aimless answer :yawn:
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Sorry mate no chance to play with the twins will have a go on weds night as I,ll only get a few hrs tinker time I.ll have a go then, many thanks for lending me the super shiny one, did you get to autojumble sat ?
Not really I sort of passed as they we nearly all gone at 2.00pm ish......Only saw motorbike stuff from the road.
I guess your text made me think not much point.......
I hope that Andy brothers do there thing on Wednesday if you get chance..............
A trip to Newbury would have been better, but Sunday is only free day, so keeping number 1 son entertained whilst his mum has some dressage training...........Oh Hello! :undecided:
I'm back in office tomorrow so will see the parcels that arrived whilst I was away last week. Expecting Oil lubricator and Needle Gun / Air Chisel set.....
:D
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A quick internet search found the following items;
http://www.militaryvehiclepaint.co.uk/product_details.php?product_id=61631
Only one mentions a BS reference, but they all say Military White???
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Wayne no idea when it changed but despite there being two NSNs suggesting two different items it is the same item in a different guise.
Originally codified as 5985-99-637-0886, the NSC (NATO Supply Classification) of 5985 is for Antennas, Waveguides & Related Equipment.
The rest of the NSN is the NIIN (NATO Item Identification Number) 99-637-0886
The NIIN is a unique identifier even without a NSC preceding it. Therefore changing the NSC will not effect the uniqueness of this being a particular item.
At some unknown date the item was codified as 5999-99-637-0886 presumably this was because someone thought the NSC 5999 described it more appropriately under Miscellaneous Electrical & Electronic Components.
A change in NSC is not all that unusual. Perhaps to dodge the vagaries of such a change, or for reasons of brevity or laziness, manufacturers will often omit the NSC on an item.
Examples of this are the ubiquitous Chair, folding & even the "Andy" But they are erroneously marked with the "NSN" or "NATO Stock No." as the last 7 digits, this is classed as "a non-significant number" & is not unique. It is only unique when preceded by the NCB (National Codification Bureau) number for that country. In the case of the Chair, folding & Andy when preceded by 99 the NIIN is created which makes it unique through all countries with the NATO Tier 2 Sponsorship Countries (which is larger than NATO itself).
And someone had to decide, review, update and publish these facts........Just shows the world or defence and NATO is a large beast, with many members, each with a role to play...............
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Thanks Clive.. Is there an actual paint colour code reference for the Matt White???
I did find a matt white finish on doors, but suspect self finish from works / manufacturer as door bottoms likely to be replacement given farely straight panels and minimal inner frame corrosion.
I thought they would have been a grey or black primed product from a supplier and not White, but who know!?????
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RR did you get anywhere with the TWINS today??????
Nice bit of welding there. The plug weld is a great invention
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Some parts I mentioned that are either just blasted or have been blasted and primed in epoxy, or blasted, gas galv'd and then epoxy primed
Shall be top coating these in relevant colours in due course.....Temp drop in garage not ideal for top finishes........
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Yes that's what I said a few posts ago
Ooooops......Thank for reconfirming
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Is he playing the part of the child catcher in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang???
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Thats coming on a treat. Bril stuff. I will say I was not sure about respraying mine in UN white (sprayed in NATO green first) But can I say now I have, last coat yesterday, the Airportable look somthing else. I am really pleased with the look. Will post some up to date pics. on my restoration when sorted.
Thanks for that.....What shade of colour white did you use???? I wonder if it is different to Arctic vehicle / harsh environment white.
I would suspect that UN white is a pure bright diamond white, whereas arctic I think may be more of an off white???
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Funny you should say that, looking at this generator, the casing that is the Sky Blue looks rather greeny when you see what looks more like the blue you see in the sky on the heatsink.
Don't ask what colour the bluey blue is because I don't know. It should be a heat resisting paint, but COSA H1 only list three paints in that category: Black, Sky Blue & Oxford Blue. Well if Sky Blue looks green, maybe this blue blue, light as it is, is what has been classed as Oxford Blue. Yes I know Oxford Blue doesn't look like that but it ain't Black & the casing is Sky Blue it doesn't leave much left. :-D
BTW this is a Generator No.12 not a No.10
Clive the colour in your photo could well be a RAL colour.
RAL 6000 is meant to resemble patinated copper and there is also RAL 5018 which is turquoise blue.
RAL colours are never ever matchable with BS colours, but can be close until they are adjacent one another, when the difference is then obvious :nut:
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Andy I am not familiar with ferret so couldnt say whether or not correct but would make sense if they need to be lower down underneath
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I still suspect that an original lever could be one of those, stumble if you are lucky parts??? Then again what have the other PIG forum members got as they must have a turn signal lever and swith......................
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TL6 & TL7 I think are part of the Lucas designation for a particular WD fitting
FV157965 = L-WD-TL6
FV157966 = L-WD-TL7
TL6 seems not have been NATO codified & has VAOS as LV6/MT3/LU/56007A
TL7 was codified as 6210-99-803-2084 but also appears as LV6/MT3/WDTL7 the Lucas no. is 540313. This I would have thought would retro construct in VAOS as LV6/MT3/LU/540313. Incidentally the only other country to use TL7 was Denmark.
Oh so that would make them rare items then??????????????
I have trawled a few classic car sites and nothing close to that image.......As discussed inventing one may be the solution and then see if an original ever surfaces etc..........
Thanks for the research...........................
Looking at some images I am confident that whilst not close up my TRB is similar to the one viewed whilst under Fv1609.......Just need to check it's tight!
I will of course clean up that sump detail and come back with a more defined image.
However it could be a stud and nut and not an extended bolt?? (TBC)
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OMG :nut::nut::nut::nut::nut: Where is that image from?????????????
Thats the correct Holy Grail.......You said it was Shiny Chrome............
That idea on the fuel lever now makes perfect sense..............
You are a Legend!
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Bonjour Mon Ami...........................
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In my younger days Spitfire plugs was a trend in Motocross and all the big US factory teams used them, so all us budding Rick Johnsons did too.
I can't say it ran any better than an NGK type R plug, but I remember it was more sensitive to fouling and Krap, so soon switched back to NGK Race Plugs...........
Hope that helps.............
They would probably only give benefit at the rev range a Motocross bike worked best at, between 9,000 and 12,000 revs..
MV engines would have hit melt down way before that range..........................................
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I picked some parts up today from the blaster that had been blasted. hot gas galv'd and then primed using 'Leighs' paints epoxy primer. I spec Leighs paints on new buildings on steelwork so renound!
Very impressed and should last well. I will post images tomorrow and the keener eyed enthusiast will note that some galv bits arent galv and this is because in service it wasn't DBG and Galv!
It was ex 29 and then 3 Cdo so will be either NATO green or disruptive cammo. It may even be White yet for 29 Cdo, but that would only work if I get the arctic heater sorted????????????????
White may be different as not always seen at shows???????? It would then suit the RM Cdo image in Mark Cook's book
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The glass on my windsreen is milking and therefore the PVb layer has been affected.
I have a set of replacement glass screen panels and wondered what is the best compound to reglaze them in??
Also are the ali trims still available for retention on the perimeter????
The screws that secure the inner are so small I wonder how robust it all is as existing to be re-used???
Thanks
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What date did that change clive as these arms are very much different to the others on unitary frame dexion, that do match the FFR image in Mark Cooks book.
You are suggesting they changed again?? Thanks for help at GB formerly FT asked for a close up. When they changed may help his research????????
Thanks in advance
After blasting and Kurust treatment is Primer Needed?
in MV Chatter
Posted
I had some items for the lightweight blasted recently to bare steel.. Applied Kurust treatment and saw a physical chemical change in steel parts.
Question is! Does the rust barrier work in the same way as a primer or is a primer still required before top coats......
Thanks :undecided: