Lynne bought loads of stuff at Ursel to do a Nurses outfit, but she was unsure about getting a steel helmet because of the weight. She tried one on, but said there was no way she could wear one for more than a few minutes. I told her she should buy it anyway as it had all the internals, and I had a cunning plan! Here's the one we bought.
Having been a model maker all my life, bar about the first four years, I figured I could make a lightweight fibreglass copy of the helmet using the original as a mould.
First stage was to coat the steel helmet with release wax, polished on and off with a cloth. After that, I brushed on two coats of PVA woodworking glue to form a barrier which would prevent the polyester resin from sticking to the steel. Once that was dry and hardened off, I was ready to start laying up the GRP.
Polyester car body filler was then mixed with resin to create a paste gel coat. This would be thick enough to be applied to the helmet on the curved surface without draining away under its own weight before it cured. Once it cured to the 'Green' stage, I started adding strips of fibreglass mat, with more resin to bond it to the gel coat.
When the resin had fully cured on the matted layer, the excess resin and mat was trimmed back to the edge of the steel helmet. With the trimming complete, it was time to prize the GRP off the steel. This was done with 12 x 1 inch strips of 1mm thick styrene, forced between the GRP and the steel. Gradually working around the helmet, forcing the strips in released the friction grip the resin had over the steel helmet, and after about 30 minutes, off popped my basic GRP shaped helmet.
I now had a smooth inside to the helmet, but a bit of a fragile edge. The inside edge of the GPR helmet was then reinforced with Carbon 'Tows', attached with more polyester resin. These can be seen in the picture below.
The outside of the helmet was of course still rough GRP, so all the high spots were sanded down and low areas filled with car body filler. This was then sanded to a smooth finish.
Once smooth, it was sprayed with filler primer to check the finish, and once happy, two layers of masking tape were layed around the rim, about 3/16 inch from the edge of the helmet. This left a ridge up against I would apply more body filler. This filler was then sanded down to the level of the masking tape, and once the tape was removed, I was left with the simulated rim of the helmet.
The helmet was sprayed again with grey primer, and the seam added to the rim with a sharp knife cutting into the filler.
With that done, the helmet was given a base coat of olive drab to see how it all looked.
Once the base coat was dry, a second wetter coat was added, and while wet, the helmet was sprinkled with fine ground cork to create the rough texture. Before the first wet coat dried, another coat of paint was added to seal the cork into the paint surface. With that dry, a light rub over with my hand removed any excess large cork chunks.
Then it was just a matter of hand painting the markings on the outside.
I bought some reproduction straps from Ebay, so all I need to do now is make the attachments before I can then fit them to the helmet!
End result, a pretty good copy, which weighs a fraction of the original, and I can probably still get my original purchase price back if I sell the steel one.
Steve