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sirhc

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Posts posted by sirhc

  1. 12 minutes ago, Andrew Rowe said:

    When you say the back of the engine slightly higher to stop premature failure of driveshaft , was this on the early model ones that actually used a short solid driveshaft?, ( This is to preload the UV crosses ? )  This early coupling was replaced by the later rubber donut , so I would hazard a guess, that this ( Donut Coupling ) should be mounted parallel in all directions and plains

    Hi Andrew,

    No the diesel drive shaft is different, it’s  much larger and heavier.

    https://cvrtpro.com/shop/cvrt-engine-parts/diesel-specific/cvrt-coupling-main-drive/

    Chris 

  2. Do you have this manual?

    https://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/cvrtx28dx29repair-instructions-common-items-522-2897-p.asp
     

    I built my Scimitar from a pile of bits. My engine mounts were missing. I was told to make sure the top of the gearbox (yellow, red or blue plate with the filler plug) is level with the sponson (horizontal bit of hull above the tracks) - I did this using a spirit level and making sure the vehicle is on level ground. I did have the shim pack and conical washers so it was very straight forward. The double check is to put the fan bulkhead in and measure the distance from the gearbox pulley to the bulkhead at the top and bottom. If it’s not the same your belt won’t last long. 
     

    The engine mounts are also shimmed using basically different thickness washers. I had some laser cut in varying thicknesses. I then borrowed the alignment tools to get it at the right height. The back of the engine (not flywheel end) should be slightly higher than the front to prevent the drive shaft from falling prematurely. The engine went in and out 2 or 3 times to get this right. 

    I’ve not had to touch it since I fitted it in 2013 and I’ve never lost a fan belt, so I think this method works.

     

    3B23CA5A-6CC5-47FA-9EC6-A786A0EA8632.jpeg

    9A56DB7B-32F3-4E02-A0C7-94CE3169BDFD.jpeg

    42E794B8-4ACB-4854-BBD2-0D2AD00A3AC4.jpeg

    FBBAD4C4-B6BB-4269-A184-3B6BB91A7158.jpeg

  3. 4 hours ago, Le Prof said:

    Hi @Enigma

     As mentioned on the other thread, I'm currently compiling a serial number, detail change for these bikes, and have araond 250 listed at this time. It may be that I already have your serial number, but if you'd like to share details succh as the seril number for inclusion, please let me know,. By PM if you prefer.

    Now Stuart Bray Motorcycles has closed, do you know where I can obtain the reproduction grips and transfers?

    Thanks for your help.

    Best Regards,

     

    I just bought a pair from a guy on Facebook, he’s in the WW2 BSA folding bicycle restoration project group. 
     

    My frame number is shown below for your database. 
     

    Chris

     

    05150B64-03C1-4BA0-AD9B-C80E99FD8A2E.jpeg

  4. Looks like they were held in with clamps using the 2 holes on either side. If you’ve got new ones anyway try a pry bar between the scope and the shroud. They won’t be a press fit because they will be replaceable in the field.

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