john1950

There are some new CET track pins in there.

I think the oil should be OMD 90. A 10/30 Diesel engine oil. EP 90 will take some cleaning out and has probably ruined the filter at least.

Welcome, Its is always good to have another member. Driving instructor and modeller a man with patience.

Its a long time ago I looked after 3 of them OTY 506 R was one of them,s reg number. Dennis and Seddon used the Perkins power unit also there were some International bonneted tractor units with a similar drivetrain. Some of the gearboxes were Turners. I cannot remember if the Dodge and Commer used a Roots Group g/box

Dodge/ Renault Commando vehicles had Perkins T6354 with 5 a speed O/drive gearbox, Commer Maxiloads had the same gearbox. They also fitted an Eaton 2 speed rear axle.

Either

I am having the same problem getting Poclain hyd fitting and now dismantle the old hoses before going to get new ones made.

I can get them to Hexham if you give me an address and time. I will pm you with my phone number.

I only have 5 left I am in North Eastern England.

Could be from something forward control with a transmission handbrake. Is it a 5 speed, any numbers at all?

I think when the tyre size changed from 13.50 x 20 fo 14.00 x 20 that could be the change over point for the brakes from Air over hydraulic to full Air.

Hope it helps, getting the shoes settled in position and adjusted correctly should go a long way towards solving your problem. It seems a strange design for brakes in the first place, a recipe for maintainance headaches.

Eager Beavers used Bedford R.L. axles and running gear, but only brakes off one corner all around, front left. So the leading and trailing shoes change places as you go around the vehicle. I asume that they used a Bedford RL brake power booster and that could be the root of you problem. There were some pictures of them operating in the Falklands on this Forum.

Early foot brake valves were vey nearly off/on with virtually no feed back. Not at all like modern proportioning air valves or electronic foot valves. At least chasing problems on air systems you do not get liquid dripping all over.

Your safety net worked.

First you have to find out if it is making air, then is it filling the tanks and to what pressure. Is the demand valve on the end of the main tank working.Then have you got air to the brake pedal and is the valve stuck down, is any air getting through the foot valve, then work your way to the brake chambers.

Adjusting the brakes up will not damage anything. Are you sure it is not an Air and Hydraulic system. Are there any Air chambers on the rear axles? Early Matadors Air over hydraulic brakes, then changed to full air. Electric trailer brake, Pre war civvy 4x2 Matador vaccum over hydraulic. Have you any axle pictures or serial number.

For a FV2026970.

Last 5 that I have £150. Thank you now sold.

There are a few Leyland DROPS in civvy life, but expensive to run both on fuel and tyres. Then you have an expensive drivetrain with a complicated Allison auto gearbox. Or you could go into the civillion market for a 3 or 4 axle beaver tail, slide back body, or hook loader. all available with manual or auto boxes, some more complicated than the Allison. They do not have the offroad capabillitys of the DROPS though. You could if you were not looking for long distance driving go for an agricultural Fast Track and low trailer. That would give you off road capability. With all of the options there are spares availability, drivers license and operators license implications to check into, as well as the cost of insurance for the different options. There is a Scammell with a converted Dyson trailer for sale on Milweb at the minute. Slow and steady but looks the part.

Albion CX22S Artillery tractors do not seem to have provision for a spare wheel. I wonder if it was carried on the Long Tom it was designed to tow.

Do you want an ex military vehicle or a commercial vehicle. Does running cost matter? What weight is a Saladin? There are some other factors to be taken into consideration also.

You have got to. Usual sign of inboard brakes leaking is a rising oil level in the axle.

Tightening wheel nuts is very neary an art form.Do you just torque up once and leave it at that. Do you torque up leave for half an hour then retorque. do you torque them, then drive a short distance then retorque. Do or dont you use nut indicators, these can be usefull when a vehicle is not used very oftain, put on for a journey and removed for authenticity. For example at a show. A problem with nut indicators is if wheels have been painted on the presure surfaces they can become loose and the indicators make it look as if they are still tight. If you torque up when the vehicle is warm from running when the studs cool and contract they will be harder to remove. or could stretch the studs and give a loose wheel. Over tightening causes as many problems as under tightening. Time to get the big chocks out to look at the brakes.

Which hand were they? Left or Right, being metric I would guess they were Right handed.