fv1609

Just be very careful, once I lay under a 101 to do just that. Although it started fine, the spark caused a particle of molten metal to land near my eye. I have never done that trick again.

I have some slightly different ones in much better condition. I have put them in a special hiding place which eludes me at the moment!

Wax type on the left, bellows in the middle & burst bellows on the right!

Although there are some UE part numbers which also have FV numbers. Then there are UA numbers as well. I can see that RD seems to be the RR number for approved electrical items from CAV, Delco, Lucas etc

Brian the first 3 all tie up, but I can't cross reference 72C162F. Its structure suggests it might be a RAF Vocabulary item. But I have the RAF B60 Mk 5 Schedule of Spare Parts that gives their vocab ref for the thermostat as 16B/7449. However this equates to Rolls Royce part no UE3531 = Smiths Y.30065/40, so that all ties up. I have got the 1952 Humber parts list & that gives another variant 30065/32, although at that stage it didn't have a RE or FV allocation. I can't see the significance of the suffix, I had thought it might be related to an opening temperature or something. RR list a few of them here although there is no indication to what particular applications they might apply. I note in RR Service Bulletin No.25 that they wax type should be replaced every 2 years, but I idon't think I have ever seen a wax one. BTW we are all familiar with RR part numbers prefixed by RE, but what is the significance of the less common UE prefix?

You're very kind, but not so much an 'expert' but more 'has a special interest in'. The above system predates the more familiar WO Code which then became Army Code. This system I am interested it was introduced by the WO in 1917 as a format for classifying subjects in publications & communications. There were 122 subject codes, ranging from 0 to 120. There were a few subjects relating to barrack fortifications that prefixed the name of the station in front of 13 certain numbers in the range 1 to 25. All of these registry series could have sub-headings from 1 to 120 although not all of those numbers were allocated. This system was a simplification(!) of the earlier system that used large blocks of up to 5 digits instead of the up to 3 digit system eg The ‘new’ 1917 system 24 Medical 29 King’s Bodyguard 51 Camps, manoeuvres etc Previous system Medical 24, 4830-4833, 4847, 4864 King’s Bodyguard 5100, 40228, 61003-61005, 61038 Camps, manoeuvres etc 4839, 7614, 61061 So the 1917 system was actually an improvement! The later WO Code than slid over into Army Code is easier to catalogue but no easier to understand in terms of its structure. It appears random in that you can have pamphlets on sexual health in a block that contains vehicle user handbooks, parts lists, stores catalogues etc. But there is an overall number block allocation although that is not immediately obvious! In 1978 (& then improved in 1982) NATO adopted a subject indicator system called NASIS. This comprises a letter-digit-letter system which covers a wide range subjects so that there is no confusion & communications can be allocated to the correct subjects. Rather surprisingly NASIS is UNCLASSIFIED.

Some while ago I posted this on another forum, never got an answer. Anyone here got any ideas? Browsing through a FSPB 1926, the amendments are coded 26/Manuals/554 yet the original book is coded 26/Publications/163. Why are they codified in different ways? The other thing is most 26/ books I have are 26/GS Publications although a lesser number are just 26/Publications, although the subjects covered are often similar. Is it just slackness omitting "GS"? It can't be a date issue as I have many books of various ages that use either designation.

Roland what a lot of hard work you have put in. I do know the effort required, been there & done it

Yes..

Andy, I'm just going to try swapping the rear wheels to the front & see what happens. But if it is no better (or worse!) then I'll explore the use of the beads. The spare wheels with the holes had been possibly candidates to swap, but I won't mess with them now you have explained the function! I had been confusion by the Saladin wheel as I was reading from the Mk 1 UHB, picked up the Mk 2 UHB & see what you mean. Richard F may well come on & recount his experiences with the beads which seemed very favourable.

Andy, ah wasn't aware of that didn't realise they had the same rims as Humber. The query was triggered by the quest to cure my steering wheel wobble at 30+ mph. I know that flats on tyres are going to be an issue. I cured it on my other Pig, by replacing the shockers as previous owners had not greased the bushes & there was bad wear. I've done all that on this Pig & checked all the steering joints & replaced a couple to no effect, readjusted the hub bearing nuts, checked the suspension pins, steering relay mountings & bearing tension, tightness of steering box & adjuster. But just thinking if there is a modest imbalance then that isn't going to help. I was thinking of using these: http://www.dynabeads.co.uk/index.php Although you can use them on tubed tyres, they say no to runflats. But I might ask them about my particular situation. Anyone used these sort of beads?

Been looking at some Pig wheels & note that one has a hole on the direct opposite side to slot for the tyre valve. Is this hole an attempt to try to balance the wheel by creating a similar weight reduction on the opposite side? I have seen just a few of these wheels on Pigs. I can find no EMER or other reference to explain this. If it was effective why was it not done to all wheels or was it done only when a wheel was badly out of balance? So why does this other one only have a hole on just one half of the wheel? Was it to only compensate to a lesser degree or was it just that the wheel halves got jumbled up & assembled with different halves? Do any other vehicles have similar modifications?

Yes it is. I've tried on & off for most of the day using all 4 links. I usually at least 1 or 2 get through.

The correct paint for the interior is Paint, brushing, aluminium H1/8010-99-943-4732 It has flame resisting properties above that of regular paints & also is stated to give protection against corrosion. Being used without a primer it seems to allow rust to creep in, although this can be reduced if the recommended two coats are applied. This will no doubt be challenged, but to me silver paints like Hammerite etc never look convincing close up. Provided you are careful to keep oils & brake fluid away it doesn't rub off too easily. I tend to feel if you can get the proper stuff, then use it. I may be able to help you with that. For tactical reasons all outward opening flaps & doors should be painted the same colour as the vehicle exterior. Mine is an anachronism in that the interior is white including all the doors & flaps. But in its police role, I have written & photographic evidence to show that it is correct. Although I am frequently told that the Army would not have painted the interior that way. This is of course perfectly true.

Wayne I don't think that would be a good way to proceed. It would better to take the cover off & trace it through. Amateur wiring could have been to anything & if the anything is no longer there you may have a dangling live wire. Both of the Interior Light TL6 have their own built in switch & dimmer. They are notorious for battery drainage by being left on when on the lowest illumination. They are supplied from the junction block behind the passenger's head on the vertical above the machete holder. It could be that the white switch was hacked into this circuit or it went to a cab light or some ancillary that is no longer there. The key no. you want is '15'. FV16 is the general pattern of key.

Wayne as you know the 3-way toggle switch is not original. It should be a 3-way rotary switch, I have a switch for you, an original knob will be a struggle but I may have something that will do. The hole is in the original position, but it was lowered in 1966 & the pointer knob inverted. The top (red) warning light is original & is for the turnlight. On failure later Mk 2s had a different type. The lower (blue) one is the main beam warning light. It was not originally fitted but seems to have crept into most Pigs in that position & of that type. I can find no date when this was added. But if it wasn't there for safety reasons I would fit one like that as the dip switch is the collar of the horn button & there is no easy way of determining if you are on main beam. As for the white switch, not original could be anything eg outboard dip switch, interior light, fog light etc

With that in mind could the "DVLA thread" be renamed to something more polite? As it stands it doesn't engender an atmosphere of dignity or co-operation.

Vicar? Are you talking about the founder Fred T.Jane born in 1865? Never seen any reference to that, the company site describe him as a naval author, journalist & novelist & linked to the formation of MI5. He went to the same school as me, although I was there quite a few years later:D http://www.janes.com/aboutus/history.html

Yes always worth collecting if they are cheap enough but the postage is a killer. Dealers often price them reasonably because of the weight they can be difficult to shift. I like to collect different editions of the same book as there are always significant changes, I only have 3 editions your book, but so far have 19 consecutive editions of Jane's Weapon Systems.

I've always found I had to have a ministry oh sorry agency inspection. He was solely interested in the chassis & engine plates. When the Hornet was inspected he didn't bat an eyelid other than say he hadn't seen one before, but just needed to check it wasn't a stolen vehicle.

As this is a US based web site don't be disappointed that some UK orientated NSNs do not show up on their database.

I’ve got two Champs for sale: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?21270-Another-Austin-Champ& http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?21269-Austin-Champ&

Like my brain, all the crucial bits have deteriorated many years ago. Although I couldn't resist having a quick peep yesterday.

Wellies & goggles for you then Wayne, should be RHS front spring shackle bracket.

Look just get on with it, have a look at your chassis & Dave's as well. Then you can be first one to post a picture of Humber chassis stampings. I haven't looked yet but wouldn't it be an irony if the stampings were actually on the off side?:nut: