fv1609

Wayne I have no experience of white grease. It's just that the manufacturer of certain autoclaves required the main neoprene seal around the door to be smeared with silicone grease to ensure a security of seal. With steam at a couple of bars this was important of course. I'm not sure whether this was because it was an un-reactive grease or somehow helped maintain the integrity of the material. Whichever you use, you could always attach LV6/MT4/W3/WC52765 Outfit, 'A', seal testing by removing the blanking plug in the lid. When assembled immerse the panel in one foot of water & pressurise to 6psi & leave for one minute, & check that no air bubbles emerge.

Wayne you should have this: You could enhance the quality of seal by smearing some silicone grease over the seal.

Some in service pics here; http://www.warwheels.net/TavernAPVpatterson.html

Andy in any diagnostic challenge, the greatest challenge arises in those problems that are intermittent. With it running I would get an assistant to monitor the charge light whilst you wiggle connectors & cables to see if there is any flickering. As for the generator, shunt box & generator panel mild thumping with a hide hammer might provoke the intermittency to show its hand. Then you can zoom into the suspect area with more detailed stimulation. If its fine that's sort of great but doesn't give complete peace of mind. I suppose you just have to wait for it to play up & then be ready to pounce with wiggling hands & a hide hammer.

Some updates: http://www.shorlandsite.com/WhatsNew.htm and no I don't know why one frame insists on being red rather than blue!

Wayne sadly even earlier than that. I have a rather large book on the history of Ulster that covers difficulties starting even 7,000 BC

A few words of caution. This thread has got me realising that I am missing out by not using a special ignition coil with lower resistance to get more oomph out of the HT. All I have been doing is benefiting from the elimination of mechanical switching & getting a sharper cut off to the coil LT. So I started looking around simonbbc's shop for a suitable electronic ignition coils. BUT all of these state: However this coil is NOT suitable for our POWERSPARK ™ electronic ignition kits When you look at his packages for an electronic ignition kit & matching coil, the matching coil is in fact for standard ignition (ie points). The implication of this is that the Powerstart module cannot handle any more current than the points. One of the limitations of these modules being directly fitted to the base plate is the dissipation of heat. When you follow the various views on the Britpart module, which was the cheapest when I was looking 2 years ago, the results were about 50-50. The Powerspark module doesn't look that different but they do supply some heatsink compound to ensure the module dissipates heat to the baseplate effectively. I think this is the factor that gives Powerspark the undoubted success it has. The problem is that the base plate is of limited size & in an enclosed space is not well suited for dissipating much heat. Attempts to expect it to draw 2-3 times more current with an electronic coil would no doubt be disasterous. The only way to use an electronic ignition coil, as far as I can see, is to either substitute a distributor designed specifically as an electronic ignition unit or utilise the Powerspark module to switch an external module capable of switching the higher current and dissipating the heat. Neither of those two options appeals to me. Apart from the hassle involved, I like the look of originality when you peer in the engine bay, which is all part of the character of the vehicle.

I fitted a simmonbbc £15 module in my Shorland 2 years ago & been very reliable.

Oh dear nothing changes. The Army messed it up with Pigs. What they regarded as Mk 1 was actually Mk 2. When they up-armoured them they then called these Mk 2 but should really have been Mk 3.:nut:

The point about a coil designed to function with electronic ignition is that it will have a much lower resistance than a coil designed to operate with points albeit at a similar voltage. For example: 12v electronic ignition coil resistance = 0.5 - 1.0 ohms 12v conventional points coil resistance = 3.0 - 5.0 ohms The limitation of the points is that as the current switched increases beyond a couple of amps the heat generated & sparking increases destructively. With electronic ignition the power is switched cleanly & suitable power transistors are not constrained by mechanical limitations. They are therefore designed to switch a current a 2 or 3 times that which would be tolerated by a conventional points system. This is why your points were getting destroyed because they were carrying dramatically more current than they could handle. More current in the appropriate coil means a greater magnetic field is stored in the coil. When this magnetic field collapses as the points open a greater HT output can be realised than in a conventional system. Not familiar with 101s, but in other Rover 24v systems the coil itself is designed for 10v in conjunction with a 4.4 ohm ballast resistor.

Well I wish he'd brought me this! The last time I researched them the cheapest was about £7k from HP. At least the price is coming down. This looks nice with the clean-up software if you watch the video clip. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=160511227950&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNASIF:GB:1120

I was really searching for infra-red stuff, but there is such a lot of material on here to interest all tastes including 'The Bug' before it got called the name it is now widely known as! Even the adverts are interesting, sure beats what seems to be largely mindless drivel & nonsense on the box at the moment. http://books.google.com/books?id=VCcDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA88&dq=infrared+vision&hl=en&ei=WigXTdz5FMe3hQfWtpm3Dg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDQQ6AEwAjgK#v=onepage&q=infrared%20vision&f=false PS Jeep enthusiasts go to page 52

Andy all those articles are on the forum, which is useful if you want to print off say a circuit diagram. No.4 is here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?20662-All-Charged-Up-Part-4 It is slightly expanded from the original particularly useful for you in that there is some detail now of the shunt box for the Mk 4 panel. I have a lot of documents here & particularly with Rovers & their charging systems it very illogical in the way information is presented with info in all sorts of diverse publications & fiche. As you read in the article there are a number of errors that get perpetuated. In fact that article was stimulated by helping someone on the forum. It made me realise the previous charging articles didn't give enough practical advice. As I was going through a number of tests for him to try it made me think I should be writing this down in an illustrative way so it will save me doing it again! The bonus was that I discovered the panel I had borrowed to photograph which was believed to be in good order was actually defective. That gave me the opportunity to devise user friendly tests rather than rely on elaborate REME test benches for testing large numbers of panels & generators. The other benefits were that I had an excuse to take the whole thing apart & photo it as I did it. Make a diagnosis, devise a means of repair and the owner of the panel now had got a working one. So if it hadn't been for someone having difficulties & asking on the forum, that article would not have come about:D

Andy, you have been very sensible to stock up with as many 24v bits as you can when you see them. I'm particularly impressed with the spare harness because that is the most vulnerable part of the whole system, which seems to harbour the most faults, dry & strained soldered joints are a particular risk. Being able to substitute all the systems units are of immense diagnostic value apart from the benefit of a spare. I assume you have got article no. 4 with the layout & circuit diagram.

Well I hope you're paying attention Wayne because it could be your turn soon when you get your LtWt running. Although I think your Generator Panel No.9 is a Mk 3 or maybe a Mk 2, not a Mk 4 as Andy has.

Andy well that's good that it is still original. I just despair when one hits problems in system that has been bodgerized. Not because I don't want to help, but because it is often impossible to diagnose that sort of problem remotely. The additional socket SK3 is not an AC output but is for Surge Protection Unit No.1 Mk 1 that clips surges by cutting the field supply accordingly. Anyway if you have had to swap lead A which is to the vehicle batteries with lead B to the radio batteries it implies that the vehicle battery contacts have failed in the main relay in the panel (BCK108). So maybe the same is happening again? So it would be worth inspecting the contacts & cleaning them with very fine abrasive cloth & wiping the debris clear with a cloth. If there was condensation when cold this could be an issue. Although usually the panels are pretty waterproof provided the lid has been uniformly & progressively screwed down on an intact gasket. The only other point of ingress can be the blanking plug make sure that is done up properly. That is for pressurising the panel & doing tests for bubbles when submerged. A way to side step the relay for a voltage output reading is to attach a lead to the rarely used auxiliary output pin D on PL3. Rev the engine & see whether the voltage on D goes up & it should also correspond with the relay closing. The only other thought is if there is shorting across the two leads that go to the HIGH/LOW switch. When the switch makes it goes into low charge rate for use in the tropics when the warm battery may start bubbling hydrogen on the normal charge rate. Although you have not messed with it, it would be interesting to see if turning it to LOW mimics the behaviour when it is not charging or at least not charging enough. Then turning it back & forth ensuring it is firmly in the HIGH setting.

Initially MoS AAWs even included small garages but towards the end of the war had been consolidated into about 180 AAWs.

Andy I assume you are talking about a 90A system. What Mk of Generator Panel do you have? Does this 'no charge & then charge' situation happen every time you use it in the cold? Does it ever charge ok & then go into a 'no charge' situation? Does it start easily from cold or does it seem to struggle? Do you use a battery isolation switch? Is the HIGH/LOW charge rate set correctly? Does changing its setting make any difference to the charge rate or warning light? Is the tension of the fan belt correctly set? What does the vehicle ammeter (if you have one fitted) show during all this? Is the whole charging installation original or has someone sought to modify, simplify, embellish or tamper with it? What were the wires you swapped in the shunt box? Does the shunt box & Gen Panel have good earth bonds still?

Nope I had always assumed that black & green relates to particularly exBAOR Pigs & was just that they came like that. Haven't the foggiest idea, because there are so few colour pics of Pigs one sees that so rarely. But there were some RUC Commer water cannon that were originally light admiralty grey that were mostly changed to OD (or sim) still with the RUC that were used later by the 17/21st Lancers who painted them brown & green. Very strange.

Look I'm far too excited exploring all these to be rational. Yes that one is very likely black & OD (nearly 10 years before IRR NATO Green) this one was what I was meaning brown & DBG. http://victorpatterson.photoshelter.com/gallery-image/N-Ireland-Troubles/G00004uHYDFdRY48/I0000ncuwlLuIM0g I've gone up to 700/770 now going to explore downwards, if you see what I mean.

I think you'll find it is DBG

I'm composing three separate emails but getting willingly distracted by the ping of notifications here. Very nice lots of things to not here which is nicely defined by dates. We have: Disruptive camo in brown & DBG very early 70s & rarely identified as most of what we see is in B&W. ERM not on NS wing, but painted on radiator/bonnet armour. Can only read one 31BK?? Call sign on door. Recovery chain Width gauges both sides. Windscreen mesh. Coaxial feed to manpack ant adaptors (How many times was I told I had that wrong on my other Pig?!) Crowd/cattle barricades on roof.

What super images. Crisp, clear & in colour, high gloss DBG really says it all for me. Many thanks for linking those. Anymore? Like Pigs or Shorlands?

Well its easy enough to find the NSN 1095-99-820-5398. Looking on fiche it reveals the DMC as M1. Not a great help as that is for mortars, smoke grenade dischargers, portable flame throwers etc. This item was used by Australia, Belgium, Canada, Spain, NZ & UK

I think you have Stalwart torsion bar end covers. This is a well established con. PS I was wrong, I spoke too soon it does correspond to a smoke discharger cap. Now I need to find out what for.