Chris Hall

Perhaps a repro 110 could be an interim solution until a 210 comes along. Period correct just not production correct.

When you say tank, is that a ballast tank?

I guess the long tube is possibly bilge water as it appears to be attached to a power take off pump.

I’m going for propeller but I really have no idea.

Lol, a cheap and easy fix at least. I think we’ve all been there. Last year I left house for a short trip to the shop and as I got to the junction of my estate, about 500yds, I saw a wheel nut lock key sat in the road. When I came back I stopped to pick it up as it looked like the one on my Range Rover. Sure enough it was a Range Rover nut key identical to mine. I’d left it sat on one of the nuts when I did some work on it a week earlier! That was a Doh moment and a bit of luck.

If I remember the gas paint was often brush applied because it needed to be replaced regularly. The traces I’ve found inside lamps is yellow with the stuff exposed to air oxidising to a brown colour. Not sure what colour it turns when exposed to gas but I bet Ron knows and maybe even tried it.

I love those King of the Road badges. I remember them on the old gas lamps and Reed horns in my dads parts box.

Aghhh, worth waiting for! one of my favourite films.

Good job, not an easy task on such thin metal and not the best place either!

There’s obviously a problem here because I thought it was mandatory to have a pool of oil/fuel on your garage floor and I don’t see a drop.

I’m thinking I will be purchasing a crate engine from BAIV. The engine that came installed needs a lot of work. At best it needs a rebore due to the cylinders being corroded, 2 very badly. The generator needs new bearings, the carb is rusted solid and the distributor is also solid with only the shell being salvageable. For the cost of having it rebuilt (or the parts for) I would likely save money by buying one of BAIVs surplus rebuilt stock.

Just added my GPW. The problem I can see is that there’s no guide to read before posting or someone to filter out the rubbish. The older list was plagued with inaccuracies such as Engine serial number GPW 6015 which is the part number, there were a few dozen of those. Also, mine is GPW6008 which could be written as 6008, GPW 6008 or GPW6008 or any other imaginable variations. It won’t be long before it’s impossible to gain any information from it.

I’ve not seen the GPA frame before and I can see the Ford Lineage.

It would be funny if it was a Ford GPW! I read somewhere that Chrysler (jeep) own the trademark of the Ford designed pressed grill. Funny how these odd little details emerge.

And the same by the looks of it as the many small arms boxes of the WW2 period such as the Bren and No.4 (T) crates.

At the end of the day you will likely have time to replace the button head screws if you decide you don’t like them a few months down the line. What you could do is get the button head screws with a Torx or Allan key fitting, get some of those nuts they use or railings and anti theft items and use them. Once the hex head had sheared off it will look like a rivet tail to the casual observer. https://www.accu.co.uk/en/shear-nuts/390030-HNSH-M10-A2?uk_google_shopping=1&c=3&gclid=CjwKCAiAi_D_BRApEiwASslbJwuoKmHQgz8XnS5YLuqdKeDlm_KSEaHq9oGiX4HTno2eJaSzTvYS3RoCpxkQAvD_BwE

The rear stay looks like one I sold on eBay many years ago. It was painted in a yucky thick yellow/beige primer.

Today I removed the rear axle off the old frame. I now need to slot it into a small gap for storage. I fitted a piece of rear armour on the M16 and got some measurements so I can order some steel. I then went on to remove some damage parts to see what I could do. The rear right light bracket and surround were quite mangled and I was nearly committed to buying repro from the US. So with nothing to lose I decided to have a crack at it. Typically my gas ran out just as I was trying to finish up. I can’t complain though as I’ve had the bottle for about 12 years!

I would have loved an international but they are much less common than a G102 and the engines are quite difficult to find. The photo shown is from the REME museum and is accompanied by an article by a conservator. He talks through painstakingly using a hoover and cotton buds to clean the dust away as even a brush can cause scratches in the paint. Get a grip man, it will have been rebuilt and repainted a dozen times and it’s a military work horse not a one off Ferrari.

My knowledge of Halftracks is being learnt as I go! It’s actually not to dissimilar in its basic form to a jeep, just 3 times bigger. Parts prices aren’t to bad either, it’s just that tracks cost a fair wack compared to a pair of tyres 😆. The best thing is the quantity of NOS parts that are out there. I’ve had loads of issues with sub standard parts for the jeep, sometimes you buy something and end up throwing it away because it’s junk.

I’ve just been on and everything is full price until I log in and then it shows 3% off. Usually I think they do select items at 3% but it looks to be across the board. January lockdown sales? They’ll likely do better with the repro Jeep/lambretta business than the shop fitting side of things at the moment.

There always appears to be 3% off on their web site over EBay.

Riveting is one of those things that looks easy but can take a skill and really needs the tools to do it properly. Hammering the tail can result in a rivet that with effort, could look ok but may not have all the intended strength. The Ford and Willys rivets had distinct tails/heads after forming. This is down to the dolly or reaction bar used. it will be down to personal preference and resources. If hitting with a hammer, you will still need to get a reaction bar/dolly on the head to react to the hammer blows and for rivets this size, it will need to be heavy. I really fancied having a go at making the hydraulic tool on the G503 forum but the cost for simply forming a few rivets was excessive. Had I been doing a number of frames as the G thread were then it would have been invaluable.