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steph1960

Triumph 3HW

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I think you'll find that distance tube F2327 goes between the engine plates. You might have to slacken some engine plate nuts and slide it in from underneath. Ron

 

Searching through boxes of parts at Stafford at the weekend turned one of these up and when I asked the price the guy just gave it to me, there are some nice people at these shows.

 

The next problem is the crankcase breather valve, I have the body and drain tube but I don't seem to have the diaphragm or plug although there is something in the end of the body that maybe the plug (see picture), its difficult to see this in the parts manual.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125261&stc=1

 

Anyway if this is the plug then I am missing the diaphragm, does anyone know where I can get one or what it looks like to copy please?

 

Any help would be gratefully received as I am unable to assemble the primary side until I install this breather.

 

Thanks

Steve

Breather Body.jpg

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There's a little metal diaphragm which is trapped behind a plug with a hole in it which is tapped into the body. #126-127 here, which to my mind is shown the wrong way round? Ron

scan-170425-0001.jpg

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There's a little metal diaphragm which is trapped behind a plug with a hole in it which is tapped into the body. #126-127 here, which to my mind is shown the wrong way round? Ron

 

Yes I too thought that was the wrong way round. I cant seem to get the plug out of the body, so will try some heat. Is the diaphragm just a loose fitting disc?

 

Steve

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Yes the disc will just suck against the hole on the upstroke. You might have to drill the plug out and make a new one. Or try running a tap into it as a means of purchase. A fairly loose push fit will do with some bearing fit Loctite. I've seen several of these with the disc missing.......Where do they go?? Ron

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Yes the disc will just suck against the hole on the upstroke. You might have to drill the plug out and make a new one. Or try running a tap into it as a means of purchase. A fairly loose push fit will do with some bearing fit Loctite. I've seen several of these with the disc missing.......Where do they go?? Ron

 

Thanks Ron

I have had this breather unit in the warm for a few days and I picked it up this morning to have another look and it rattled, on closer inspection the diaphragm is in there, however sometimes when I shake it the diaphragm disappears so this may be why it seems like the disc is missing, I thought it was. I will try and get it in the right place on assembly and just hope that the engine does the rest to hold it there, its probably very worn.

 

Steve

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If the disc is so deformed that it can fall over, then I'm sure it will soon be out of function on the bike and as you have to remove the whole primary side to get to it......I'd sort it out now!

 

Ron

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If the disc is so deformed that it can fall over, then I'm sure it will soon be out of function on the bike and as you have to remove the whole primary side to get to it......I'd sort it out now!

 

Ron

 

I managed to get the plug out last night, the end of the bolt was turned over holding it in. The attached picture tells the story. The diaphragm is somewhat reduced from the shape shown in the parts manual, you can see why they disappear, it was small enough to get lodged in the reduced hole beyond the plug!

 

Steve

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125317&stc=1

Worn diaphragm.jpg

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When you think about, it's amazing that the four little tangs on the disc last as long as they do. When you consider the thousands of times that the discs is going back and forth!! Ron

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When you think about, it's amazing that the four little tangs on the disc last as long as they do. When you consider the thousands of times that the discs is going back and forth!! Ron

 

I have made a new disc and put it all back together and given it a suck and blow test and all is well, hopefully that will last a while.

 

A slight deviation to the front wheel now, I need a good photo of a front wheel nut if you have one please, mine are just flat nuts and I would have expected there to be some kind of flange on them for fitting to the girder forks, can you help Ron?

 

Steve

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Indeed Steve! Flat nuts are no good. There must be a rebate to centralise the spindle in the forks. Part No W175. Brian Tillin made all mine in Stainless. Ron

scan-170508-0001.jpg

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Indeed Steve! Flat nuts are no good. There must be a rebate to centralise the spindle in the forks. Part No W175. Brian Tillin made all mine in Stainless. Ron

 

Thanks Ron

Excellent reference pictures, I will measure the clearance between the spindle and the fork ends and spend an hour on the lathe.

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Can someone offer advise on the fitting of the 3HW kick start spring please? I pre tensioned mine prior to reassembly but the lever is not returning without assistance, I also recall having trouble getting it all back in place with the little tension that I had so can only imagine that this will be harder with even more tension applied.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Steve

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Steve it's best to attach the kick start and wind the spring up and hold it in place with the kick start whilst you offer up the cover.

 

Ron

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Steve it's best to attach the kick start and wind the spring up and hold it in place with the kick start whilst you offer up the cover.

 

Ron

 

Thanks Ron

All fixed last night, easy when you know how.

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attachment.php?attachmentid=128355&stc=1

 

All done and came first in class at last weekend's International West Kent Run. Thanks for all your help with this project with a special thanks to Ron Pier.

 

Steve

WP_20170806_13_20_46_Pro.jpg

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You're just showing off now Steve! Ha Ha Well done!

 

Ron

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