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Ron

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Everything posted by Ron

  1. Ron

    Amal carb rebuilders

    Best to go straight to Martyn Bratby on 01543 572583. Amal won't refurb your carb. They will sell you new parts or a complete new modern carb. Surrey Cycles and Hitchcocks are selling new Amal products too. Ron
  2. Jan I do love this about engineering! The amount of work involved sometimes before even the simplest part can be made. I really wish I had more of those skills, but I get by as I have blokes like you around me. Ron
  3. That is some great work Jan! Did you fabricate the English wheel yourself, and machine the wheels? Incredible ingenuity. Ron
  4. Lucky find Lex! A prewar Speedtwin wheel/hub with it's correct ally brake plate could be worth hundreds of pounds. As I look at your pictures, it does look like a Triumph hub.with detachable finned brake drum.(fitted the wrong way round of course.) It would also fit the other heavyweights from 38/39/40 .....Tiger 90/100 5H, 6S etc. Ron
  5. Ron

    Flying flea parts

    Absolutely nothing wrong with owning and riding a post war civilian bike, but why bother to make it into something it isn't. A 1948 shiny Flea in its correct livery could be a joy its owner. The original query was to determine if the bike for sale was what it is advertised as.....Judging by the nearly 5 grand price tag, the seller would clearly like to think it is☹️. Ron
  6. Ron

    Flying flea parts

    The Flea at Dutch Lion doesn't look wartime to me. The first and most obvious difference was that the saddle was moved up and back to accommodate the re-positioned tool box in order to make room for the maze are filter and choke mechanism on the WD/RE. The saddle nose bracket on a post-war Flea is more like an upside down 'comma' and the wartime bracket is taller and straight. The embossed 'Royal Enfield' timing cover is postwar and so is the exhaust system with the push on port on the cylinder barrel. The wartime barrel has a screw on exhaust. I notice also that the headlamp and a number of other things are civilian. Ron
  7. Ron

    3HW Front Brake linkage

    No the levers are not easy to come by. I've had to search and find odd parts over a year or two to get a complete set of controls. But Jiri does make nice repro stuff, http://www.vintage-replica.cz/svetlaE.htm Ron
  8. Ron

    Triumph 3HW Front Brake Shoes

    If there's and brake lining spec in the parts book or manual, I would give it to them ( i haven't looked yet). Otherwise I just give them the make and model and they work it out. Ron
  9. Ron

    3HW Front Brake linkage

    Unless your cable is made for that post war lever with its big adjuster, I doubt it will fit right. Ron
  10. Ron

    3HW Grease Nipples

    Yes those are for grease nipples. The original type were the old straight ones suitable for the Tecalemit pump action oil gun. But for regular use, it's better to fit the modern equivalent grease nipples. They are 1/4 BSF and you can use all straight ones on a 3HW. Available here from Nooky (scroll to the bottom of his cataloque) He's also a cheap source of British made zinc plated Cycle thread nuts and bolts. http://www.nookysnuts.com/catalogue/catalogue1.html Ron
  11. Ron

    Triumph 3HW Front Brake Shoes

    I send most of my shoes to 'villiers services' who will reline them, usually with bonded linings , so no rivets to worry about. and it's not expensive. https://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=4 There are means to get brake drums skimmed, but it's a specialist job, especially when the drum can't be removed and the whole wheel is involved. Also it usually means that the brake linings have to be thicker to compensate. The other problem is that thinish drums as on a 3HW can then distort easily if machined much thinner. In all honesty, if you don't replace the hub, you might have to live with what you've got. I would just run some sand paper around the drum, fit new shoes and then see what you've got.......I'm more of a back brake person on these old clunckers anyway. Ron
  12. Ron

    3HW Front Brake linkage

    The vee shapes are correct and just there to dig in and stop the knurled thumbscrew vibrating round on it's own. I thought there might be some vague divots in the lug for the vee's to locate, but can't see them on any of my 3 Triumphs. Here's one of them and you can pull the tube cap down away from the lug against the spring inside. Ron
  13. Ron

    3HW Front Brake linkage

    Here's a close up I have on file. The cable goes through the adjuster which is mounted through the lug on the headlamp bracket. You then feed on the hollow cap with the spring inside it and hook the cable into the fitting on the top of the rod. Make what adjustments are required to the rod length and connect the yoke to the brake arm and finally adjust the cable. Ron
  14. Ron

    3HW Front Brake linkage

    Brian Tillin made my complete brake rod in Stainless steel (copied from an original). I don't know whether he still has any, or prepared to make any. PM me if you want contact info. Ron
  15. Ron

    Triumph 5SW

    Balance pipe and dynamo problems fixed. Just need some running in weather now! Ron
  16. Ron

    Triumph 5SW

    After quite a wait, my 5SW timing cover is back from my engineer after having new cam bushes fitted. In the meantime I acquired a NOS unused 3S/5S/3HW timing cover which is now surplus to my requirements. It cost me £45 if anyone wants it (I also had a new quill fitted to it) Ron
  17. Ron

    Triumph 5SW

    I've more or less finished the 5SW and it started first kick this morning and runs fine with no rattles so far. I have an issue with a weeping petrol balance pipe under the tank. After draining the fuel and removing it, I can see that one of the nipples has been replaced with one that has a different shaped cone than the other side, and is hopefully the culprit. I've just re-solder a correct nipple on and will re-fit tomorrow. New markings are " Lakota Nation" North Dakota Division.😄😉 Ron
  18. Your footrest looks bent. Clamp the part that sits against the chaincase in a vice so that the next part of the footrest is vertical. The part you put your foot on should be at 90 degrees in both planes to your vice. It's obvious once you set it in your vice. They will bend cold with a bit of tube for leverage, but much safer if you get it cherry red with a welding torch......Bring it to me if you want......I'm near Bournemouth. If your stud is 3/8"? I don't know for sure, but somehow it looks like the brake pedal pivot. Ron
  19. Ron

    British Cab Canvas paint

    Well I hope that gets answered! I used to buy lovely Khaki 'Messowax' for my British vehicles from R&R Services, but they stopped it in favour of horrible pea green. I would spray it on then brush it over with a soft brush when dry, every few years. Ron
  20. Ron

    SAE 50 oil ?

    Really any monograde 50 will do, but I've used Morris's Golden Film sae 40 in all my bikes for about 25 years now. It's an all year round compromise between 50 in the summer and 30 in the winter.........This is England! But I pick it up regularly at the jumbles for 16 Quid for 5 lts. https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/golden-film-sae-50-classic-motor-oil.html Ron
  21. Ron

    Rather expensive to me

    I've seen that bike you're referring to Ferret and it's not as original as you think. The Foo Foo Valve that grinds the smoke is definitely post war and the valve caps are just tasteless modern things😕 Ron
  22. Ron

    Flea parts

    This is mentioned in the classified section by Dave. But I thought it was worth reiterating here. So if anyone is interested, check out the classified section for more info and Dave's contact details. Ron I've been in discussion with a manufacturer that can make the "Not Available" centre (long) suspension band for the Flying Flea . Hitchcock Motorcycles claim they are the same size as the small band and just need the width narrowing ...........they are not . The photo I have attached is of both small and long suspension band , the long one is an original very kindly loaned to me for comparison , as you can see there is a difference , the difference is 18mm . The manufacturer can make these too the exact spec as the original ,the drawback is I have to order a minimum of 50 . I have had some definites of people wanting these and was hoping to gauge the interest with some more definites before I go ahead with getting these made as the cost to me is £475.00 inc vat which equates to £9.50 each , all I'm trying to do is cover the cost and provide the correct band for all the Flea owners so I'll sell these for what it costs me. Hopefully there will be enough interest . If anyone is interested please pm me with the amount you want so I can decide whether to go ahead with it or not . Thanks Dave
  23. Ron

    Triumph 5SW

    Re-sprayed the tank and got the handlebar and controls fitted today. Ron
  24. Ron

    US paint colour

    Does anyone know the paint code (RAL number) for US Dark Olive? Ron
  25. Ron

    Triumph 5SW

    I fitted the new rear tyre and tube and the other few parts I was waiting for are here now. This is where I've got to so far. The petrol tank is the last item to prepare and spray.. Still trying to get hold of Peter Long for the field stand clips.......think I might have to try a phone call to Germany? I've fitted an original MT110 rear lamp with a single filament 21W bulb which works a treat with a £2.50 .8 ohm resistor from Honk Kong fitted in the tail lamp line. Which gives about a 8-10W glow to the tail lamp and the full 21W when the brake pedal is depressed......Wish I'd used this trick years ago!! Ron.
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