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Ron

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Everything posted by Ron

  1. Ron

    1941 Royal Enfield WDC

    Did you notice how Jan just got in a little dig about my RAF COπŸ˜ƒπŸ˜ƒπŸ˜ƒ I'm just off at Sparrows fart with my mate Tim to buy him an Indian military Chief in west Wales. Should take all dayπŸ˜• Ron
  2. Ron

    1941 Royal Enfield WDC

    I'm fairly sure that Jan's report is not on line, but he'll probably respond soon and send it to you on request. Khaki would have been the service colour at the time of production and I can't see any point in depicting it as a rebuilt machine in Service Brown. In 1944 the new Service colour was British Olive Drab to comply with the incoming US vehicle colour. However I don't know how important it would have been to repaint a WD/C as by this time they would have been way down the line of any machines destined for front line or overseas commitment. Ron
  3. Ron

    1941 Royal Enfield WDC

    I don't know, but since the bike in the factory picture doesn't have an oil filter, I guess it's prior to yours. There might be something in Jan's report, but I haven't had time to study it yet.... Or maybe he knows off the top of his head. I'll send him a nudge. Ron
  4. Ron

    1941 Royal Enfield WDC

    PS. Mid war would probably have been Service Brown, which would have commenced from some point around 1942. Ron.
  5. Ron

    1941 Royal Enfield WDC

    Yes I have a pitch at Netley. Plot B8 top of field facing the trees. Jan and all the usual guys will visit me. Ron
  6. Ron

    1941 Royal Enfield WDC

    PS. Another point to consider, is that the pre pannier equipped bikes have the rear brake arm in the 'up' position and a vertical field stand. Ron
  7. Ron

    1941 Royal Enfield WDC

    Quite a late one (oil filter on the engine and short center stand). The factory pictures show some later ones with pillion and panniers fitted, which are soooo handy! It would still have had a ribbed front guard with no number plate. Still a bit early for Service Brown I think, so I guess Khaki Green. Ron
  8. Ron

    Jeep ignition timing

    Yes it is good to discuss these things. I've had my Jeep and my original 'Ford' manual for well over 30 years now. I guess there must surely be repro manuals out there, But for those who haven't got one, here are the relevant pages from mine. If you set the timing at TDC you would then have to ADVANCE it by turning the dizzy.πŸ‘ Ron
  9. Ron

    Jeep ignition timing

    Err! The ignition timing should be set on No 1 cylinder with the flywheel mark IGN in the center of the hole and points just braking...... In the days of very poor 68 octane fuel you are advised to retard the ignition to the TC (Top Center) mark. Which doesn't apply these days. Ron
  10. Ron

    Matchless WD G3L Engine plates

    Yes Duke, I've realized from other posts that although the G3L plates are thinner than G3's, the thickness was made up with strips where needed. I have both bikes in my collection but the stripdowns were so long ago that I've forgotten such details. Ron
  11. Ron

    Flea restoration

    Got itπŸ‘ Ron
  12. Ron

    Flea restoration

    Yes Arnaud is with his young son at the campsite in Normandy where many of us stay during the D Day commemorations. PS I can't think what the blanking plug is that you refer to.....No doubt the penny will drop as soon as I 'submit reply' Ron
  13. Ron

    Another 3HW silly question

    You can see in this factory picture, the aluminium wrap around ties on the front and rear frame tubes. Ron
  14. Ron

    Flea restoration

    I just Had a text from Arnaud, he's on holiday in Normandy this week. Ron
  15. Ron

    Flea restoration

    Richard the levers are about 4 3/4" long... Also a shot of my Airmaze filter with one of Arnaud's repro name plates on. My James ML has the almost identical 'Coopers' maze filter which originally had the makers details embossed into the end cap. I simply sanded the embossed lettering down and fitted one of Arnaud's name plates to make it 'Airmaze' 😈 Ron
  16. Ron

    Matchless WD G3L Engine plates

    Can a G3L mag platform be squeezed over the thicker G3 plates? I've never tried it but seem to remember that the mag platform is tight on the plates?? Ron
  17. Love the spaceship back light Lex! Ron Uh OH just read your post properly deleted the bit about a Norton mudguard
  18. Ron

    Matchless WD G3L Engine plates

    I can't help with any spare engine plates but I imagine they would have been 1/8" originally?? However I wonder if you might experience problems with the mag platform if you make them too thick? Have you tried Steve Surbey at 'AMC Classics' for decent originals? Ron
  19. Ron

    Flea restoration

    A Dutch friend of mine has a tank from the last contract (still with original paint and census number found under black paint) This also has a chrome badge! But the Flea that was dug up at Oosterbeek definitely has white enamel. Clearly then unless these chrome ones were retro fitted, both types must have been used, but I'm told that mostly it was the type with white enamel. Richard, Terry Roberts (Metal Magic) email address is metaltel@yahoo.co.uk Phone 01189 731631.He's in Eversley, Hampshire My Flea is now quite correct and if you want any specific pictures, just PM me with your email address. Ron
  20. Ron

    My latest project

    It's all back together Chris with no signs of touching anywhere, and it kicks through compression without slipping now. The factory pictures seem to show that they used the standard 250 chaincase. The outer case is the one that Alan Swainson made for me, copied from yours, and since old Alan has passed away now, I won't be replacing it, even if an original turned up. Ron
  21. Ron

    My latest project

    I have acquired this engine from Tasmania. It's the remains of an engine from a Royal Enfield Experimental lightweight that only four were known to have been produced. In a nut shell the bike was built from the bottom end of a 250cc Model D engine with the slimmed down flywheels and the barrel and head from a 350cc Model C. Which was installed in a Model D frame with Model C forks and wheels. As if I haven't got enough to do, I have decided to build a replica of the bike, and I am gathering parts and information. I am getting lots of help and encouragement from Jan who runs the RE register. I'm desperately seeking a Model C or CO front wheel or just a bare hub, if anyone can help. Cheers Ron
  22. Ron

    My latest project

    I know it's been well over a year since my last post on this thread, but in that time, a few issues have been dealt with. Firstly, it was pointed out by Lex, that the rebuilt D shaped speedo that I bought off Malcolm Leach was in fact, "post war" but he kindly donated a war-time shell into which I've transferred the innards and glass from the other one. Also I got a horrible feeling about not being able to remember the seal for the big end oil feed, so the timing cover had to come off. It turned out that a brass insert had been fitted (modification??) So I removed it and fitted an original type cork seal. Again donated by Carl from Guernsey as he'd had some made for his Model D. Carl also donated a decent timing chain cover to replace my painted cover. Another thing that I didn't like was that I couldn't kick the engine through compression without my newly corked clutch slipping. On inspection of the factory strip down photo, you can clearly see that they used a 350 clutch and not the 250 clutch that I'd used.......So a 350 (model C) clutch has been acquired and fitted. Ron
  23. Ron

    Flea restoration

    Yesterday I was asked by a guy in Netherlands if I could clarify the construction of the WD Miller tail lamp as he's in the process of making some good repros. So I removed my lens and took these pictures. The ring around the back end of the lens is actually a groove on the inside which holds a spring wire circlip. This circlip clicks into a corresponding groove in the bulb holder. This should hold the lens in place if the screw falls out. The lens rim diameter is 32.5mm. Ron
  24. Ron

    Flea restoration

    Well you can go to all that trouble and then a correct one will turn up. The cheapest and easiest option is to just carefully paint it with enamel paint and put an original on your wish list!! Ron
  25. Ron

    Flea restoration

    You've done bloody well Richard. It's nice to get a bike finished and a pleasure to stand back and admire it. I'd say that all of my bikes when finished are not 100% correct! But then It's even more of a joy when the odd correct part like levers, lamps, badge comes along and those parts can be corrected. Before I found my correct war-time Flea tank badge, I had the post war version which was entrusted to my friendly old sign-writer guy who simply painted the brass part white. However I've noticed slightly less white on the original. First pic is two post war badges ,one painted in by old Terry (Sadly departed) Second pic is an original all enamel. Ron
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