tankdiver

Sorting out my parts I found I have over a hundred shell cases steel and 30+ titanium shell cases from my Fox CVRW A single steel case will be £4 and a dense plastic head will be £ 6 10 steel cases go down to £3 ,50 and over steel cases at £2 each The steel cases clean up well with a angle grinder wire brush Titanium cases are £6 each Post and Package is extra depending on weight

Sorting and clearing out my gear I found have over a hundred empty steel shell cases and 30+ titanium shell cases if anyone is interested UK only Cheap enough to fill you shell racks in CVRT and CVRW vehicles I only have a few dense plastic heads A single steel case will be £4 and a dense plastic head will be £ 6 10 steel cases go down to £3 ,50 steel cases at £2 each The steel cases clean up well with a angle grinder wire brush Titanium cases are £6 each Post and Package is extra depending on weight. Pm me

Weird and wonderful contraption .Its good to see how engineers in the past came up with solutions. well found

Until we see the actual axle it is a pointless debate. the diff mounted on the axle is in fact a rear axle.and the spring mounted this way is to allow heavy loads to be carried without the axle being to high . Its an interesting layout not one I have seen Regards

Until we see the actual axle it is a pointless debate. the diff mounted on the axle is in fact a rear axle.and the spring mounted this way is to allow heavy loads to be carried without the axle being to high . Its an interesting layout not one I have seen Regards

It Looks like beam axle to me if there is a diff its not clear in the photo the highlighted part is the rear diff. If lt was a 4x4 and a heavy hauler the diff banjo would be a large round casing at the front. This vehicle appears not to have one Laurence

Hi I have some cases steel ones {green } and I believe titanium ones brassy / green tinge Pm me if interested Laurence

I will get some out and post a picture of the head stamp Regards Laurence

Thanks for this its quite a vehicle .I was wondering if the British army also used 2omm shells ????

I have quite a few steel 20 mm shells what vehicle/ gun would use them? 13 cm long 3cm case

I have some used empty steel ammo cases 20mm round s , 13cm long case 3cm. going cheap £ 1.50 each min 10 + p+p some rust and dirton then but will clean up I have also some Raden shells Steel £3 each and light titanium £6 each

You are quite right Richard I think it cleansed all the crankcase and was just about to get to the sludge that dropped into the sump judging by the strainer pick up . It will be interesting to get to the filter at a later date to see how full of sludge there is. I am looking forward to getting it running again with good clean oil and hope all the oil galleries are clear .I will give them a good blast with the air line. I think this engine has had little running due to its internal. condensation It will get a good run when its finished regards Laurence

I have just started on the B40 engine with the intention of a rebuild . On taken off the rocker cover the inside was spotless and on one of the nuts inside had some condensation rust. On removal of the sump inside the lower crankcase was very clean { SPOTLESS } as if it had been petrol washed the sump had clean sides but in the base was about a litre of thick sludge, that covered the bottom of the sump pan and had not come out when the engine was drained. Further examination of the crankcase and bearings showed good bearing surface on both the main and big ends. The con rods had condensation rust on them which was easily removed with a petrol soaked rag. Pondering the clean engine with good B /end & main bearings I came to the assumption that the engine had been overhauled and a detergent oil was used which totally removed all of the old sediment present and dropping it in the base of the sump. This reminded me of engine failures in the sixties when the detergent oils were introduced sludge blocked the intake gauze and starved the bearings. Again pondering the removal of the oil it did not remove the sludge , so now when I do engine oil removal after I will refillI and put a mixture of petrol oil and allow to stand then drain the sump again to remove any deposits of sludge, Regarding the engine I will replace the big end bearings as these take the most wear but retain the original main bearings. I must be a little out dated with the cost of bearings as they were over 3 times the amount estimated I use to pay £50- £80 max for big end bearings and for todays prices I would have had a regrind shaft and all bearings throwing in. All they are is a mildsteel shell with white metal on it.

some more pictures of the build .The engine and gearbox is now out ready to be overhauled and the engine bay is resprayed

Some time ago I purchased an Austin Champ for spares. After a full inspection the floors,lower panels, arches were needing a total reconstruction .The chassis was in good condition and the engine ran so I decided to repair it as a last project , to take 2or 3 years. I am in the second year and have completed the floors in heavy 16 gauge steel mad new body panels in 18 gauge steel rather than the thinner 20 gauge steel. I have been surprised several times on the condition of the mechanics as the body was extremely poor and the vehicle looked a dog. The fuel tank was like new suspension , steering etc were good and easy to restore only requiring rubber gaiters The rear axle I replaced the crown wheel and pinion with a modern one having a better grade steel . At present the underbody suspensions, diffs, steering , new brake shoe and cylinders have been done . A new brake master cylinder and brake pipes are to be fitted then internal work electrics and body work to be completed. I will attach more picture and updates as it progresses

Hi Nick Its a lot of work just actually getting to the props and then that stupid brake adjuster ??? I think some army drivers forgot to take the handbrake off as they were often done. Its a good brake when adjusted correct. The polecat is a lot more stable than my Fox was and is faster . I still have Raden Shells for the fox eg steel 30mm and I think titanium ones from helicopters they are green to brass looking if you are interested. I also have tinwork covering the propshafts etc Regards Laurence

If you want to register it .save time and go to champ owners club they are great Jerry Toms did mine and was amazing had it done in a Jiff. The DVLA will have you going around in circles as I have found to my cost. Laurence

Regarding the red nuts if they are taken off with even a little air in them air in them it may kill you . when I was teaching mechanics I ,used a picture from Dunlop tyres on the imprint of death which was a tyre fitter blasted into the ceiling of the workshop when not using a cage. So be careful when working on tyres even push bikes. Laurence

Fitting the inserts for run flats can be a hard chore i had to do two on a ferret which took a whole morning . It may take a little less time for a younger guy as I was in my 70s at that time. Hope I dont have to do them again Laurence Richard I found the method on fitting the rubber inserts the same as you did after several attempts but they are an awkward lump Laurence

Fitting the inserts for run flats can be a hard chore i had to do two on a ferret which took a whole morning . It may take a little less time for a younger guy as I was in my 70s at that time. Hope I dont have to do them again Laurence

Getting it registered can be a chore best get help from a club eg MVT or the DVLA will send you round the houses. Laurence

Thanks Nick I am at present doing a Austin Champ stripping every thing off it , restoring and welding ,it long job and into its second year. In the summer I will restart the polecat and ferret ready for shows

Bureaucrats love working in circles to cause confusion and to keep their jobs. Just look at Brexit . I no longer have deacts only replicas but the law on them is a little stupid to say the least. Its hard enough keeping up with there stupid decisions on our hobby. I understand that if you belong to a history group eg MVT then the replicas dont need to be painted a bright colour is this correct

£45 pounds an hr is very cheap my local garage is over £100 an hr. Working on these vehicles are harder than cars and if you cannot do the repairs and maintenance yourself then it going to be costly .I hope you find a good repairer at a good rate.