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Mad Scientist

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Everything posted by Mad Scientist

  1. I've used GC Hurrel. They are very good. http://www.gchurrell.co.uk/contact/details.html
  2. Hi Dingo, Seen this post late. Did you sell the EMER V627? Are you able to reply to me on j.sanderson@har.mrc.ac.uk please (I don't use the revampedHMVF much these days) cheers, Mad Scientist.
  3. Each to his own. I've had a bad experience with Douglas Graham and avoid him.
  4. Hi Joris, John has put this best, and i heartily endorse what he's said. Thanks for all you and Jack and the other Admins do, yes, I realise that it must be disheartening for you to get this feedback, but many of us like the familiar and until the explanation came, had no idea of why the vhanges had to be made. cheers, Mad Scientist PS Can replies be made to individual posts on a thread, or just to the bottom of that particular thread? Otherwise I would have put this reply with John Comber's post, above.
  5. Hello folks, HMVF and its community has been good to me, thank you for all your support but I'm really struggling with the new forum format. Its difficult to look up archive threads (very useful) and to keep a quick eye on the new posts - OK the latter is Unread Content, but it comes with an annoying Notifications tab in Firefox that's proving hard to turn off. Why has good ol' HMVF gone the way of all modern 'progress'? Could it not have been ported over to a new server in the familiar format? I know its very easy to criticise those who do the hard work, and this is in no way personal, but if we don't pipe up the Mods won't know. Methinks I'm going to use this really useful forum a lot less, and most likely walk away entirely. cheers, Mad Scientist
  6. I go to other people: PTS Norfolk, Steve Slack (Clansman radios) and a local seller in Oxford. PM me what you are looking for and I'll ask for you. Cheers, Mad Scientist.
  7. Had a PM conversation and got a friend from Chemnitz (formerly Karl-Marx Stadt) involved who knows Dresden well. His son is a German history graduate. This is what they say: The picture (zis3-t34) with the ruined church spire is not in Dresden, but is the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche in Berlin at Kurfürstendamm and near Tauentzienstraße. However we would suggest that it is a photo montage typical for Russian post war propaganda. The picture (zis3dresden45) of the pub and lorries ist most likely also not from Dresden. This question has alredy been discussed in a German Internet group. My son suggests it might be somewhere in Silesia since the naming "Gold(e)nes Zepter" was very common for pubs in this area. Unfortunately we have no clue at which town or village it was. The phone number is no indication since there is no area code given. I have done a further search in a 1940 address book of Dresden and surrounding area with absolutely no result for "Goldnes Zepter". This picture however is part of a series of pictures which document the approach of 6th Mechanised Guard Corps of 4th Soviet Armored Guard Army at Dresden:http://altyn73.livejournal.com/181624.html But it is said that the second picture of this series is also not from Dresden. It is from Berlin instead.
  8. Given that wind up is more of a problem with a 6x6 Stolly than a 4x4 vehicle, can anyone explain why the army are considering using a new 8x8 wheeled APC, the Mechanised Infantry Vehicle? How will wind-up be minimised to an acceptable level?
  9. Hi Andy Welcome onboard! I'm in Harwell. cheers, Mad Scientist The local MVT group meet every second Weds at the Bear at Home North Moreton.
  10. Matt, Thanks for your input. For the record I have bought from you via ebay before, and you were first-class. I've looked at the picture of the seat exploded diagram on your ebay listing and think that my seat is a slightly different design. Had a look at the seat with my elder son, bearing in mind what Topdog had to say. We removed the starlock grab-washers from the three pins holding the tensioning ram and actuating lever in place. We found that by shortening slightly the length of the seat support by screwing in the adjustable rod, the sprung-loaded tensioning ram in the centre was kept under load and the seat could be put down, locked into place and raised at will. I suppose a consequence is that the seat’s upper position is slightly lower than before, but at least it can be collapsed and put back into the vehicle. Final question. Does anyone know how to dismantle the tensioning ram in the centre and rebuild it should the internal spring fail and tension is lost again? For the record, managed to do all this without losing any of the sixteen digits and four opposable thumbs shared between my son and myself . Cheers, Mad Scientist
  11. Hello folks, I had a search on the Forum before posting this question. For commander's seats that won't stay down see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?37977-Ferret-commanders-seat. However, I took my seat out to check the oil levels in the gearbox and transfer box. The bugger sprang up and now won't lie down (so to speak). I'd be glad of help to fix this from those who've had to deal with all kinds of Ferret problems before. cheers, Mad Scientist
  12. Hello folks, I find the level of the SAE 30 straight to be very hard to read on the Ferret dipstick for the gearbox. There's very little contrast. A friend said he used to use green Duckhams SAE30 to improve matters. That'll also help diagnose things if the oil bleeds through into the transfer box for any reason. Does anyone know if you can get suitably coloured oil, or if there is colourant that can be added? cheers, Mad Scientist
  13. My thanks to njjeeper & sirhc, I could not see any bracket mount forward of the front nearside bevel box, near the left foot, but now sirhc mentions the Bren, I think I've seen a picture of a Bren mounted in this position. So, my final question is this: was this for a spare Bren in the Mk 2, or for the ones mounted on Mk 1 vehicles, or as a spare in addition to the one fitted in the Mk 1 vehicle? cheers, Mad Scientist
  14. Hello one and all, In the attached photo please can anyone tell me what the raised three-sided cover/support is for on the nearside prop-shaft (on the right in this picture) just behind the driver's seat. It measures 1 inch high, is 4-3/4" long and 2-7/8" wide. There are four tapped holes, which I'd be glad if someone can tell me the thread size, and what screws onto this support. cheers, Mad Scientist
  15. John wrote: "I can only apologise for any upset this innocent headline has inadvertently caused, but remain mystified why a simple play on words, about the fact that it is a Scout Car using the title of Baden Powell’s famous 110 year old, scouting handbook, should have any negative connotations. Such plays on words are common in magazine headlines such as the ‘four wheels on my ‘wagen’ line on the cover." Here's my two pennorth... I think Clive got it right when he said 'These magazines are good at giving newcomers an insight into the range of vehicles that they might find attractive to own or model, particularly if someone has never been to a MV show' I also agree with him when he says 'Extraordinary that these magazines that are meant to be about military vehicles, seem to be largely devoid of any technical information about servicing & keeping them running'. Before we criticise John C too much, I'd like to point out that its hard to write day in and day out. I've spent seven years writing a microscopy textbook. Hard work, yet easy to slam it when its published and reviewed: anyone can do that, and they do. I have also been that side of the fence and reviewed lots of books. My reviewing style is easier on the author these days! cheers, Mad Scientist
  16. Thanks Robin, I wondered whether to PM you directly, but put out a public post in the spirit of the forum. Yes, it must be the same bloke. I'll get in touch, all the best, Jeremy
  17. Hi to all our friends across the pond, I was exhibiting my Ferret Mk2/3 atthe Harwell Feast, the local annual village fair in our village, today and a chap called Towrie came up and said that his brother was in the military vehicle scene in Canada. I said I'd put a shout out on HMVF. Does that name ring a bell for any of you? cheers, Jeremy aka Mad Scientist
  18. Hi Robin, Its a crowbar. I know its non-standard. I saw one on another privately-owned Ferret and, because I don't have sand tracks, decided to lash this securely to the antenna tube. I covered the lashings with a short length of webbing strap. I got the crowbar cleaned and black enamel-coated, then painted the ends red. I think it looks the part with the front glacis furniture, but it also has two other functions. First, it provides a strengthened step-up when getting on and off the vehicle from the front, so the tube is not bent or damaged. I've seen a Ferret suffer side-swipe damage when a car hit it as it was exititng a T-junction, so a very much secondary purpose is to help minimise impact damage. Jeremy
  19. Hello folks, Robin asked for pictures of these LEDs, Here are pictures of the three LED types compared with the original 5W incandescent sidelight bulb. Sidelight bulb = 1x brightness Classic cars LED = 2x brightness, warm white Chinese LED 1 = 6x brightness, cool white Chinese LED 2 = 4x brightness, cool white cheers, Jeremy aka Mad Scientist
  20. Hi Robin, Thanks for your support, other have also raised very good points on this thread. As a newcomer to HMVF, I have found this forum very helpful and useful. I'll post some pictures in a day or so. My apologies, it would make much better sense to show these LEDs in place on the vehicle. As regards LEDs for the headlights, I'm waiting to hear from Classic Cars LEDs about the LED replacement for the BPF P36d headlight that they are developing, which should be available later this year. other than that, I have not heard of a headlight LED alternative, or found a 24V one online. This page offers 6v and 12v BPF LEDS, but I have no experience of buying from it. cheers, Jeremy aka Mad Scientist.
  21. Hello folks, With the original post I constructed the heating curves because I wanted to check that the LED I selected wouldn’t overload the wiring or the lamp unit. The one labelled Chinese LED 1 (2) in the picture was a powerful one that I initially bought. I have decided not to fit it because it is cool white. Here’s a Google short URL link to the ebay webpage. https://goo.gl/c45GB5 The cost is $2.99 or £2.50. The one labelled Chinese LED 2 (3) in the picture came from a relative; sorry, but I don’t have the seller's data, webpage or price. The one labelled Classic car LED (4) came from Duncan Rickards of Classic Car LEDs. The 24v negative earth sidelight LEDs cost £6.99 for a pair, and the red stop-tail LEDs £15.50, including postage. I realise that there are a multitude of vendors to choose from, but I was very impressed by Mr Rickards on the phone, and took his advice to fit warm white rather than cool white for the sidelights as more in keeping with the classic incandescent look, and to fit the red stop-tail combined LED rather than the white version behind a red lens cap. The LEDs also arrived the next day. Thanks for the heads-up about the potential insurance company issue; worth looking into. For the time being I’m using them for safety and the E mark query can wait! I’ve fitted LEDs because I reckon that brighter = safer on a slow-moving camouflaged green classic vehicle. Robin makes a good point that you can always revert to incandescent bulbs. Hope this helps, Mad Scientist aka Jeremy
  22. Hi John, PM sent, cheers, Jeremy
  23. I've recently replaced the BA15s 5 Watt front sidelights on my Ferret with LEDs. These draw much less current and thus should be kinder to old wiring looms. The LEDs are also brighter - between two and six times brighter. I used a thermocouple datalogger to measure the temperature effect of three different compatible 24v LEDs, since the 4,300 lumen super-LED that I have replaced in my searchlight, which is seven times brighter than the headlight bulb, has to have a thermal cut-out incorporated in its circuit. I ran the lamps and LEDs for an hour each until the temperature reached equilibrium. The ambient temperature was 14-16 C. The old incandescent bulb reached 43 C. When taking the temperature of the bulb/LED, the air temperature within the space between the bulb and the clear glass lens (lamp holder cover) was measured. The thermocouple did not touch the surface of the bulb or LED. The temperature of the bulb holder was also separately measured. It reached 52 C. The LEDs reached between 16-26 C. The time on the X-axis is in minutes. Classic 5W incandescent bulb approx. 75-100 lumens. Fitting: BA15S Chinese LED 1 1156 BA15S 54 LED 3014 SMD Car Tail Backup Light Bulb White Emitted Color: Pure White; Colour Temp: 6000-7000 K Power, luminous flux = 540 lumens Voltage: DC 12-24 V Input power: 3 W Current: 125 mA @ 24V Size: 3.5 cm x 1.7 cm Ø Brightness factor over incandescent: 6x Chinese LED 2 Twin chipped high Power LED bulb Emitted Color: Pure White; Colour Temp: 6000-7000 K Power, luminous flux approx: 400 lumens Voltage: DC 12-24 V Input power: unknown Current: unknown Size: 2.9 cm x 1.7 cm Ø Brightness factor over incandescent, approx: 4x Classic cars LED 24 VOLT WARM WHITE 8 SMD 5050 LED BULBS GLB149 BA15S 5W Emitted Color: Warm White Bulbs;Colour Temp: 6000 K Power, luminous flux = 160 Lumens Voltage: DC 12-24 V Input power: 3.2 W Current: 134 mA @ 24V Size: 3.7 cm x 1.7 cm Ø Brightness factor over incandescent: 2x The Classic cars LED is warm white, the Chinese ones are cool white. Warm white will give a more authentic look. I'm told by Duncan Rickards at Classic cars LEDs that they are developing an LED replacement for the BPF P36d headlight, which should be available later this year. I use his red 24v stop-tail LED at the rear, since these are also brighter than the 21/5 W Bay15d incandescent lamps. If anyone wants the data for the stop-tail LED, I can also post this heating graph. I've decided not to replace the incandescent indicator 24 W indicator flasher lamps, because an electronic relay is required for the LEDs to operate, and the old thermal relay only just fits behind the instrument panel and its awkward to get to and repalce. I reckon its only worth replacing those lights that are on more or less continually. cheers, Mad Scientist
  24. Hi Bob, Have sent PM re SMG pamplet. Mad Scientist
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