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Mad Scientist

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  1. As an update to my post, with an electrical engineer friend I checked the ohm values of the tank sender unit, and of the torroidal coil, plus the wires which go forward into the Ferret driving compartment and connect to the wires going into the instrument panel switchboard at the connection cluster by your right knee. We also removed the sender unit and bent the float arm because it was obstructing on the side of the fuel tank. WE had to bend the float arm; we couldn't rotate it wrt to the sender unit by loosening the screws of the two clamps at the top and bottom of the grey tube connecting the sender unit to the float arm. Once the free movement of the coark float was fixed, we cleaned the top pin holding the two rotating contacts on the sender unit with WD40 and established that this was working on all three sectors of the wound torroidal coil. Wggling the wires in the right-hand electrical cluster we found that the instrument dial went from full to empty the wrong way round under the gauge, and then suddenly it went OK, around the top. So, the carbon coating on the magnets in the meter on the instrument panel is OK; the sender unit and its wiring are all OK, and its just a poor positive feed connection at the cluster. I’ve also included a photo of this with the FV-number, plus a photo taken from a descrition of the Austin Champ to show the float arm assembly. Also read this link http://www.austin-champ.co.uk/mech/fgjacksn.htm and this http://www.austin-champ.co.uk/mech/fuelgage.htm Hope this helps, Mad Scientist.
  2. Wally, thanks for this. I've moved the float arm with the aid of a stick and its moving freely. Since my post, I've found instructions in EMER V623 Unit repairs, Chap 10, page 8-9 and Para. 19 to check voltage and resistance between the three terminals of the tank sender unit as 400 ohms. The resistance between pairs of cables at the instrument panel end should be 600 ohms. Any further information that I find, I'll post on here.
  3. Hello folks, The fuel tank now only registers 1/4 full. I'm told its likely because the indicator potentiometer windings have failed, and they are poorly constructed in the first place. Has anyone ever managed to replace this unit or, for that matter, the sender unit in the fuel tank? I know its easy to look into the tank to check the fuel level, but I'd like to try and rectify the problem. Any advice gratefully received regarding fault-checking. If any one has a spare dud instrument panel that I could look at, I'd be very grateful to hear from you. Clive remarked in a separate post "Is your Switchboard No.1 still a Mk 1 or has it been upgraded to Mk 6? ". Can anyone please tell me how to tell the difference between the two. FV numbers gratefully accepted. cheers, Mad Scientist
  4. An update to the post about fitting a new Ferret tacho cable. I said in the earlier post above “You have to remove the two bolts holding the engine breather tube in place. Don’t undo the single nut holding the other end of the breather tube in a jubilee/hose clip. It is impossible to replace working through the rear inspection hatch into the engine bay. Rather, work the breather tube out of the way”. If you do (as I did) unwittingly remove the nut and bolt holding the clip for the engine breather tube in place, only to discover later the magnitude of effort involved in its replacement, well, you have two options. You can either (a) get a very small child of great intelligence – preferably one who is chimney-sweep time-served – and explain to said minor with hands sufficiently small to get both of them through the underside inspection hatch that the nut and bolt needs to be screwed into the engine frame in a manner that you cannot do without otherwise removing the two oil hoses that obscure the operation from above. I guess even to contemplate this option in the crazy PC times we live in, you will have to jump through all sorts of hoops, get CRB checked and the like plus bribe any parents or chimney-sweep master. Or (b) you fit a self-tapping bolt in place. Thanks to my friend Clive (not Clive E, ever helpful tho’ he is) but the one that helped both myself and Paul MacN, this was accomplished with much less effort than trying to fit the nut and bolt from underneath with rat-tail pliers and forceps and much swearing. As a temporary wedge I used the hard plastic jaw protector from my bench vice. This forced the clip at the end of the breather pipe away from knocking on the bevel box and against the engine frame. Don’t be tempted to use a clothes line peg, or any similar sprung clip. It will assume a life of its own and drop into the engine bay, probably never to be retrieved. From underneath, through the inspection hatch, Clive used a dental pick to line up the hole in the engine frame with the clip. He then used pliers to force the backplate of the self-tapping bolt (Duratool No 8 captive ‘U’ nut) onto the ridge of the engine frame. At this point re-check the alignment with the dental pick, or similar. Clive then used a pair of my forceps to ease the bolt into the aligned hole first of the clip then into the backplate/engine frame. Once that was done, he used an 8mm ratchet spanner to hold the bolt in place and a pair of pliers to hold the backplate in place on the engine frame. It was then a question of patience, and very small turns of the spanner until the bolt bit into the backplate and held. After that, it was just a question of tightening the bolt. The clip had bent slightly (which you might just be able to see in the picture), so the breather tube didn’t sit entirely against the engine frame, but the important thing is that it is clear of the bevel box, and not rattling against the case of the bevel box.
  5. Hello folks, Two good condition 9x16 Ferret Dunlop Trakgrip 'lazy S' tread tyres for sale. I'm looking for £70 each. I'm selling to help a friend on hard times and my wife wants them out of the garage. They have been stored flat. Buyer collects from Harwell, south Oxfordshire. Please contact me by email = j.sanderson[at]har.mrc.ac.uk cheers, Jeremy
  6. Thanks to support from Paul McNeill in Canada, to Clive for NSNs and others on this forum, I managed to fit a new tacho cable in the Daimler Ferret this week. Here, based on Paul’s advice with what I learnt is a summary for others to follow. You can get a sealed replacement cable from Speedy Cables. The price was £65; with carriage and VAT the total was £93.54. A very good price and excellent service from Speedy. Speak to Darren, or quote my invoice No. 29368. Delivery was the next day by UPS. The standard cable is 11 feet. On Paul’s advice I got one made up with an extra 4 inches. Actually, 11 foot six inches wouldn’t go amiss. Original NSN for the complete unit = 6680-99-802-0231, just the inner is 6680-99-802-0251, not that Speedy needs this detail. The black heavy duty casing Speedy makes up is slightly smaller diameter than the original, but looks the same. The casing is T6LA Heavy Duty Conduit. You want to ask Speedy for the following ends when ordering: Drive End = Bentley Fitting; Instrument end = AT Connector. Unlike the original, the cable is sealed, so there is no need to try and grease the inner. At the B60 engine end, the nut is 1” AF, not 1+1/8th inch AF, as on the original, but otherwise the thread pitch is the same. I dealt with fitting the engine end connection first. Tape the cable below the nut, or use a plastic clamp, about 8" or 20cm from the end of the cable - this is to ensure the threaded nut that secures the cable to the engine does not inadvertently slide down the cable into the engine compartment bilge causing you to utter expletives not normally heard in polite company. It would be a nightmare to retrieve it. It also means the nut stays in position as you feed the cable past the gearbox and under the petrol tank into the engine compartment. At this point I needed assistance for someone to push the cable while I used a coat hanger wire hook to hoike the cable+nut up to grab it and pull it into position in the engine bay. As Paul says in his remarks to me: I tied a length of line to the tool I was using and the other end to me, so I could retrieve the tool if I dropped it. You have to remove the two bolts holding the engine breather tube in place. Don’t undo the single nut holding the other end of the breather tube in a jubilee/hose clip. It is impossible to replace, working through the rear inspection hatch into the engine bay. Rather, work the breather tube out of the way. Also, I found it necessary to remove one of the engine case covers. That will allow you just enough space to get at the original 1+1/8th inch AF brass nut. Lubricate the cable end where it engages the engine with a quality gear grease. I fed the cable in from the fighting compartment. You’ll need to remove the gearshift lever and its casing from the hull wall. Remove the split pin and disconnect the Clevis pin from the first knuckle joint. No need for me to tell you that gravity is not your best friend in a Ferret, especially when you’re tired and your hands ache. Also disconnect the speedometer cable as it goes into the gearbox. This will allow you to remove the right-hand transmission cover/tunnel. Take up the floor pan, the jump seat (if fitted) and the gunner’s seat. Dismantle the cover around the gearbox, remove the oil filter and any radios to allow you free access to thread the cable by the right hand battery and into the engine compartment. It helps to cable tie the new tacho cable to the support for the gearbox control rods that sits by the battery tray. This keeps the tacho cable away from the spinning prop. shaft. Thread the cable up by the side of the petrol tank, and here it can be connected to the engine case, as above. I found the cable naturally curved neatly around the side of the engine bay and under the petrol tank. Check the cable that the turns are not sharp, and the cable is clear of the prop. shaft, gearbox and handbrake controls rods. There is a fairly tight turn as the cable exits out from under the floor pan and by the hole in the transmission cover/tunnel enabling the cable to lead up the wall between the fighting and driving compartment areas. At this point the cable can be led with the speedo cable around by the electrical connector holder, down by the steering gear casing, and into the back of the rev. counter on the instrument panel. Make sure the cable goes above the electrical connecter cluster underneath the instrument panel. I managed not to feed it through the small gap between the steering gear casing, but you can work out what’s best for the way your Ferret furniture is configured.
  7. Thanks for all your help. Paul McN (Canada) suggested I asked for an extra 4" on the neew cable. Shall be fitting it shortly, and will let folks know how it went.
  8. Hello folks, I have bought a dog-eared copy of Driver Training Notes issued by COD Bicester in November 1971. These are A4 sized. Unfortunately, the first one of two pages are missing because the ring binder holes on the pages have torn. My copy starts at precis 1 , Para. 5 'The Transmission'. If anyone recognises this manual and has the front page(s) to precis 1 that they can scan and let me have, I'd be very grateful. I have uploaded the first page I have of Precis 1, and the start of Precis 2, to show the sort of page(s) that I'm missing. cheers, Mad Scientist
  9. Dear Clive, As ever, you come up with the goods - this is very helpful. Thank you so much: you're a star! Hope you are well, cheers, Jeremy
  10. Hello folks, Can someone please help me locate the Ferret tachometer cable NSN - I need to replace my broken one. I think they are 11 feet long. Any information appreciated on the type of termination at each end, so that I can get the correct cable made up. Many thanks, Mad Scientist
  11. I've used GC Hurrel. They are very good. http://www.gchurrell.co.uk/contact/details.html
  12. Hi Dingo, Seen this post late. Did you sell the EMER V627? Are you able to reply to me on j.sanderson@har.mrc.ac.uk please (I don't use the revampedHMVF much these days) cheers, Mad Scientist.
  13. Each to his own. I've had a bad experience with Douglas Graham and avoid him.
  14. Hi Joris, John has put this best, and i heartily endorse what he's said. Thanks for all you and Jack and the other Admins do, yes, I realise that it must be disheartening for you to get this feedback, but many of us like the familiar and until the explanation came, had no idea of why the vhanges had to be made. cheers, Mad Scientist PS Can replies be made to individual posts on a thread, or just to the bottom of that particular thread? Otherwise I would have put this reply with John Comber's post, above.
  15. Hello folks, HMVF and its community has been good to me, thank you for all your support but I'm really struggling with the new forum format. Its difficult to look up archive threads (very useful) and to keep a quick eye on the new posts - OK the latter is Unread Content, but it comes with an annoying Notifications tab in Firefox that's proving hard to turn off. Why has good ol' HMVF gone the way of all modern 'progress'? Could it not have been ported over to a new server in the familiar format? I know its very easy to criticise those who do the hard work, and this is in no way personal, but if we don't pipe up the Mods won't know. Methinks I'm going to use this really useful forum a lot less, and most likely walk away entirely. cheers, Mad Scientist
  16. I go to other people: PTS Norfolk, Steve Slack (Clansman radios) and a local seller in Oxford. PM me what you are looking for and I'll ask for you. Cheers, Mad Scientist.
  17. Had a PM conversation and got a friend from Chemnitz (formerly Karl-Marx Stadt) involved who knows Dresden well. His son is a German history graduate. This is what they say: The picture (zis3-t34) with the ruined church spire is not in Dresden, but is the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche in Berlin at Kurfürstendamm and near Tauentzienstraße. However we would suggest that it is a photo montage typical for Russian post war propaganda. The picture (zis3dresden45) of the pub and lorries ist most likely also not from Dresden. This question has alredy been discussed in a German Internet group. My son suggests it might be somewhere in Silesia since the naming "Gold(e)nes Zepter" was very common for pubs in this area. Unfortunately we have no clue at which town or village it was. The phone number is no indication since there is no area code given. I have done a further search in a 1940 address book of Dresden and surrounding area with absolutely no result for "Goldnes Zepter". This picture however is part of a series of pictures which document the approach of 6th Mechanised Guard Corps of 4th Soviet Armored Guard Army at Dresden:http://altyn73.livejournal.com/181624.html But it is said that the second picture of this series is also not from Dresden. It is from Berlin instead.
  18. Given that wind up is more of a problem with a 6x6 Stolly than a 4x4 vehicle, can anyone explain why the army are considering using a new 8x8 wheeled APC, the Mechanised Infantry Vehicle? How will wind-up be minimised to an acceptable level?
  19. Hi Andy Welcome onboard! I'm in Harwell. cheers, Mad Scientist The local MVT group meet every second Weds at the Bear at Home North Moreton.
  20. Matt, Thanks for your input. For the record I have bought from you via ebay before, and you were first-class. I've looked at the picture of the seat exploded diagram on your ebay listing and think that my seat is a slightly different design. Had a look at the seat with my elder son, bearing in mind what Topdog had to say. We removed the starlock grab-washers from the three pins holding the tensioning ram and actuating lever in place. We found that by shortening slightly the length of the seat support by screwing in the adjustable rod, the sprung-loaded tensioning ram in the centre was kept under load and the seat could be put down, locked into place and raised at will. I suppose a consequence is that the seat’s upper position is slightly lower than before, but at least it can be collapsed and put back into the vehicle. Final question. Does anyone know how to dismantle the tensioning ram in the centre and rebuild it should the internal spring fail and tension is lost again? For the record, managed to do all this without losing any of the sixteen digits and four opposable thumbs shared between my son and myself . Cheers, Mad Scientist
  21. Hello folks, I had a search on the Forum before posting this question. For commander's seats that won't stay down see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?37977-Ferret-commanders-seat. However, I took my seat out to check the oil levels in the gearbox and transfer box. The bugger sprang up and now won't lie down (so to speak). I'd be glad of help to fix this from those who've had to deal with all kinds of Ferret problems before. cheers, Mad Scientist
  22. Hello folks, I find the level of the SAE 30 straight to be very hard to read on the Ferret dipstick for the gearbox. There's very little contrast. A friend said he used to use green Duckhams SAE30 to improve matters. That'll also help diagnose things if the oil bleeds through into the transfer box for any reason. Does anyone know if you can get suitably coloured oil, or if there is colourant that can be added? cheers, Mad Scientist
  23. My thanks to njjeeper & sirhc, I could not see any bracket mount forward of the front nearside bevel box, near the left foot, but now sirhc mentions the Bren, I think I've seen a picture of a Bren mounted in this position. So, my final question is this: was this for a spare Bren in the Mk 2, or for the ones mounted on Mk 1 vehicles, or as a spare in addition to the one fitted in the Mk 1 vehicle? cheers, Mad Scientist
  24. Hello one and all, In the attached photo please can anyone tell me what the raised three-sided cover/support is for on the nearside prop-shaft (on the right in this picture) just behind the driver's seat. It measures 1 inch high, is 4-3/4" long and 2-7/8" wide. There are four tapped holes, which I'd be glad if someone can tell me the thread size, and what screws onto this support. cheers, Mad Scientist
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