Zero-Five-Two

Last bit of history to bring you all up to date. Been getting the cab ready for a repaint, but as most of the early part of this year has been spent keeping out of the rain, it has been a slow process. Overall the cab metalwork is in very good condition, just a couple of patches of surface rust here and there that needed a bit of effort. Generally it was just a case of remove any loose and flaky paint, sand back the rest to prepare the surface. Good thick layer of red oxide brushed well in I've removed the brackets that were fitted by the rear quarter lights. They serve no purpose for me and only block the view in the mirrors when you are driving. Nobody seems to know for certain what they were meant for, anyway. Quick rub down of the red oxide to hide the worst of the brush marks, then mask up for a spray of filler primer Two generous coats of grey bunged on. It has got a couple of runs in it, but not bad for an out door job on a not exactly bright and sunny day. It will get a lot of flatting back and maybe a second primer coat before any top coat goes near it. With the masking paper removed, it looks quite passable, even got me considering a darker grey finish colour instead of red. With only a fortnight to go before this years annual AEC Rally and road run at Newark, where we are booked in with both wagons. This weekend has been all about inspection and servicing. Grease up, oil, water, lights wiper, washers, hooter, rock the steering etc. Had a bit of an issue with lights not working, which was due to knocking a couple of wires out of the dashboard when I was doing the temperature gauge the other week. I would say an easy fix, but it is a pain in the butt getting the dash in and out without pulling more wires out. Ready to roll now, just got to clean the inside of the cab. It is full of sanding dust and overwintering spiders. So, this is where we are. I'll try not to get so far behind with the posting this time.

Repairing the electrical system was how I got introduced to this truck in the first place. Got all the important stuff done early on, and the lights shortly after, but never got round to the fuel and temperature gauges. Spent a couple of days over Christmas testing the non working temperature gauge and identified the sender unit was no longer playing the game. Various begging letters were sent out via this forum, F'Book and so on and turned up Ferret Spares.com with a NOS one on the shelf. Plug, switch on, all good. Fuel gauge was easier to diagnose, there was simply no wiring going to the sender New loom made up in the comfort of the shed, now for the difficult bit, fitting it! Had to cut a hole in the load bed to even be able to see it And there is just enough room underneath it to get your hand in to connect it up. Had to use a stubby screwdriver, mind, normal one was too long. Successful though, both gauges now working as they should. There is a slight difference of opinion between the dash gauge and the one on the fuel tank itself, but only 20lts or so, and I can live with that.

The inconvenient puncture just before the Newark show was caused, I think, by great big clods of rust from the inside of the wheel cutting through the rim skirt and then the tube. So, to prevent any sort of repetition best bet is to get them all cleaned. I got a few spare wheels that came with the truck and these were stripped down and sent for sand blasting. Atlas comes in handy for lifting them around, and can assist in bead breaking, although the old hand operated "Monkey" still does the best job. Bit of good fortune here, my cousin who runs the farm has a little side line in sand blasting when things are quiet in farming world, so not far to go to get the wheels done, and a most agreeable price. First two done and ready for painting Usual first coats of Bondaprimer Under coat and then a finish in dark red First one built up and ready to fit. Managed to acquire a passengers seat to replace the missing one, but like the existing drivers seat the upholstery was rotten. Retrim required. First off clean and de-rust the frames. Best way is with the old electrolysis bucket. 24 hours in here strips 90% of the old paint and sorts all the rust. Just have to do it in 2 halves. A few minor repairs were needed, with a bit of cut and stick Fresh coat of black Hammerite. Doesn't seem to be the same quality of stuff it used to be, but still good. Then a nice man at South Eastern Coachworks did the business with the sewing machine Now got a two seater cab

Bit more on the catching up. One of the features that helps confirm the identity of the donor cab is this split in the radiator cowling. Paint colour may have changed, and someone has tried fixing it with a screw, but pretty certain that is the same split. I'd rather it wasn't there. No chance of getting a new rubber, so repairing is the only option. Fortunately there are plenty of rubber repair kits available on line. A sticky, messy job, and loads of tape to hold it in place. Instructions said fully cured in 24 hors, mine got left for a week before I pulled the tape off, so well cured by then. Repair result doesn't look bad. Sets well solid, but flexible like the original. Sand it back to somewhere near the correct shape, then add a second lot to fill the odd blemish. Final trimming and sanding finishes the job With the rubber done, moved onto the rest of the radiator. Washout and repaint the fins, clean and paint the out side On the bottom half of the rad there should be a shroud, which attaches to the grille This one is off my Timber tractor. Flat aluminium sheet but with a raised ridge in the middle. Sheet is easy to get hold of, but how to replicate the ridge Then a light bulb moment. Some models of Optare bus have side panels with a very similar swage line. Get hold of a panel and simply cut to size Drill the appropriate holes and you're in business Add a coat of paint and a couple of badges to finish off

So, what was up with the Atlas? When I say it doesn't work properly, it's things like the off side stabiliser leg goes down but will not go back up by itself, arm extension goes out, but you have to lean on something to push it back in, and so on. Control levers were well seized in places, which is not really surprising as she has spent most of her life outside. Some of them have been bent, presumably by someone attempting to get the thing to behave by forcing the lever over. Take the lot off, and strip to see what's up Once stripped and cleaned it became apparent that some of the original modification work wasn't all that, and a couple of control rods simply couldn't move enough to open the valves properly. So she has most likely been below par since she was first cut down from the original. With a bit of TLC and adjustment the whole thing now works just as it should. There is a hand throttle on the side of the engine cover to turn the revs up when using the Atlas, but I couldn't get that to behave either. You could have just above tick over, which wasn't enough power, or you had the motor screaming at full revs which is not good for it's health. Solution was to replace it with an auxiliary throttle pedal mounted next to the control levers. Perfect, as you stand there working the levers you can put the revs on when you need them and back to tick over when you don't, Good for fuel economy as well I should think. Soon as word got out that it was all working, the "Can you just" jobs turned up. Well, of course I can, any opportunity to show off. Delivering bags of stone for a neighbour Delivering a lathe at work Had to go in the door and down a flight of steps. No problem, I've just got to learn which lever does what. I put numbers on them, but still get it wrong. More practice required

Haven't done anything with it to be honest. Further inspection showed it to be more secure than I first thought. I've done about 800 miles with her now to various shows and jobs out, and it's all good. I've even removed the surplus radius arm.

Well, profuse apologies all round. Write a restoration blog he said, started well and then.....??? Oh dear sorry an' all that, bit of a gap in the scribble. Last post said off to the Detling show. And here we are with the Timber tractor, looking polished and shiny at the Kent Transport Heritage Show Detling. Except this is 2024 a whole year later on, and I haven't written anything in between. Bit of catching up to do. Back to the Tonka, ambition at the time was to get her fit enough to make the journey to the AEC rally at Newark on the May bank holiday weekend. There was a few late nights and long days, but we made it. Biggest panic was getting her safe and road legal. Brakes and steering the main priority and getting all the lights working. Fitted in a couple of local runs to shakedown any problems and got her over to the workshop for a full service. Last minute crisis of a puncture was not in the plan. Bit nervous driving up to Newark, first big run for her, and for me. She drives totally different to any other Militant I have ever driven, and she does bounce a bit with the Atlas right on the back. But of course it made it, she's a Militant. 180 miles each way, no problem. Caused quite a stir with the viewing public, this picture appeared in several truck mags, with people questioning whether she is a Militant or a Matador with a cab swop. Chuffed to bits it all worked, 2 trucks to the big show, brilliant weekend. Back home and the serious work can get started. First job, the Atlas, It does work, I've seen photos and video of it in action. Just doesn't work very well, investigation required

Haven't looked at this thread for a couple of years. So just been reading up on what I've been missing. Incredible job you are doing there and you have achieved so much. Is that dogged determination, or too stupid to know when to stop? Anyway, absolutely well done, and thanks for writing about it all

Evening all, I'm looking for a temperature sensor for a Militant. Part No. FV60668 I'm told they are the same as fitted to a lot of Military stuff in the fifties and sixties. Anyone able to help? Thanks in advance.

Yes, but the Atlas doesn't work because some fool left a pipe undone and it chucked all it's oil out

Thanks for the replies, gents. I've got 25lts of Ultramax 46. Local plant company reckons that would do, as much the same spec as 32 Just wanted a second opinion or two

Hi all, anybody know the correct hydraulic oil to use in an Atlas crane on a Militant? If my memory is still good we used to use OM33 for most plant hydraulics, back in the day, but what is a civilian equivalent?

Thanks for the replies folks, at least I know what it is now, any ideas of value in it's current condition?

Any body able to shed any light on this little beastie? Helping a friend clear a barn full of tractors and stuff and found this. Has a plate on it showing Douglas, but no other readable information. I'm guessing ex RAF from 1960's

I thought it was longer than 3 years, but then, I am old and get confused easily. You've done a damn fine job with her, mate, well done. What are the local shows you are doing, be nice to come along and have a good look at her?