Champ problems

[webley455]

I’m confused, As my starter motor is playing up at the moment ( replacement on order) I have been connecting and disconnecting the cables etc.

as a result of this sometimes the ignition lights don’t light up but the gauges move and the engine starts with the crank or they light up and engine starts normally 

When the engine is running the voltage gauge is around 22-25, turning the lights on doesn’t make it fluctuate, however, the red light bulb lights up very very dimly, but if I turn on the panel lights then the volts dip really low and the red light illuminates bright.

other times after disconnecting and reconnecting the starter all ignition lights work every time but starter either works or squeals ( not engaging ring), however, voltage gauge reads high, no glow on red light and panel lights do not affect voltage reading.

any ideas? Is it a starter motor fault affecting everything else or do I need to start checking wiring loom?

[fv1609]

What do you mean by the ignition lights? The charge warning light (red), the oil pressure warning light (yellow), panel illumination lights. All of these or some of these?

22-25v is far too low with the engine running, should be more like 28V.

Where are you measuring the voltage? Directly on the batteries or somewhere off the loom?

Do you have Generator No.1 or No.2?

Has it always worked properly & then just started playing up or always been a bit like this since you have had it?

 

 

[webley455]

By ignition lights I mean the oil / generator lights.

The vehicle has a voltage gauge wired up in a panel along with a wind up clock 

generator is the smaller one bolted to front of passenger seat No2 Mk1/2 ( I think) will have to check tomorrow 

I’ve only had it a few weeks so not sure how long it’s played up, what I don’t understand is why it seems to alternate between the two problems

[fv1609]

I think the smaller one is the Generator No.1.

What is the Gen Panel No.? I believe it is possible to fit a 2-speed Generator Panel No.2 in place of the single speed panels. I have some experience of the 2-speed panel but not the single speed.

I would be tempted at the moment to take all voltage readings direct from the battery as added on things by a previous owner like a voltmeter are not necessarily placed in the most appropriate place, in terms where & how effectively it is earthed & whether +ve voltage monitoring point is most appropriate eg the instrument panel is fed by a 10A thermal cut out, which can get unreliable & even when the contacts are open circuit can still supply a voltage albeit with very low current capabilities because of the flow through the coil winding which is something like 150 ohms. The voltage that appears is dependant on what other demands are being place on the circuit in such circumstances.

In the first post you mention turning on the "panel lights" is that the single bulb to  illuminate instruments or the main light switch in the Switchboard No.1 ? Of course the other panel lights (red & yellow) come on when the ignition switch is turned on initially.

What was the problem with the starter motor? Are you certain it was at fault & not the ancillary wiring in some way, given that you have these other issues?

 

 

[webley455]

Apologies for delayed reply, I had to go to work.

Generator is No1 Mk2-1.

photos attached show yellow and red lights OFF when ignition is ON ( hard to see due to sun). Vehicle started with crank as starter lever didn’t do anything.

voltage gauge on right side reading 24v. Turning lights on doesn’t alter it but turning the panel illumination switch on knocks voltage down to 15v.

problem with starter motor is that is doesn’t engage with the flywheel ring.

 

 

[webley455]

Occasionally after disconnecting and reconnecting the starter leads the voltage reads 28-30 and doesn’t fluctuate at all when the panel illumination switch is turned on

[fv1609]

The lighting is fed from the 25A thermal cutout housed in Box Distribution No.1 Mk 1 so not effected by what is going on in the ignition circuit which is fed by the 10A thermal cutout also housed in Box Distribution No.1 Mk 1

Your voltmeter I assume is wired into the ignition circuit.

To me it suggests a fault in the 10A thermal cutout (corroded or arced contacts) which even when open will still allow a voltage to flow through the cutout winding which is something like 150-200 ohms this will pass only a very small current. But would be sufficient to illuminate the red & yellow lights to some degree.

As this also supplies the ignition coil through to the distributor, when the points are open of course the coil draws no current & there is enough power to illuminate the red & yellow lights. But if the engine has stopped when the points are close there might be nearly 4A flowing, but if the thermal cutout is defective then trying to flow this current through the winding of 150-200 ohms will cause a serious voltage drop.

This will not be sufficient to illuminate the red & yellow lights, energise the coil or allow the starter to be activated.

I think the state when you get 28-30v not fluctuating when the red & yellow are turned on is when the distributor contact breaker points are open.

[webley455]

Thats interesting, I will take A look at the weekend

thanks for advice 

Norman

Edited August 22, 2019 by webley455
1