Jump to content
  • 0

Replacing mk2 pig driveshaft




I have just purchased a Mk2 pig. It has a regular knocking sound from the offside rear wheel which increases with road speed. The previous owner says that it is the drive shaft that has twisted (I have 2 spares).

Does anyone have experience of this problem or have instructions on how to replace the shaft?

I have a mk1 parts manual but on the diagram, the shaft is different. The ones I have are splined at both ends with two different pitch splines (fine and course). The ones in the diagram appear to have a tracta joint at one end.

Alternatively, can anyone supply a workshop type manual for a Mk2 or direct me to where I can get one?




Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Simon, do you have to go into 4WD to get traction? Or does it drive ok on 2WD ie on the rears?


There were 3 types of rear joint fitted to pigs. Originally it was the Chobham joint but there were problems with the articulating pads coming off due to the retaining springs failing. In desperation in NI wksps, Tracta joint (supposedly weaker) were fitted from GS Humbers. When Mk 2 pig came along late 1972 to mid 1973, they still could have had either joint. It was not until 1974 that the Birfield joint came along, although the upgrade went on for about 5 years. But as they ran out of the correct steel, of the 487 Mk 2 Pigs only 383 had Birfields fitted.


You are right the Birfield joint was not in a parts book but was described in EMER WHEELED VEHICLES N 257/2 Mod Instr No. 10. But sounds as if you have Birfield, should be identified by red paint - trouble is everybody seems to put this damn red paint on their wheel stations to some how make it look good.


Have a look at:




I think the relevant EMER is in this reprint. It is a hotch potch of EMERs don't be put off by the date 1952 that is the date of the earliest one as it covers the Humber 1 Ton GS as well. But check first to be sure:



Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Simon, just re-read your post. Sounds as if your spares are Birfield. You are lucky to have those, but it could be Tracta, Chobham or Birfield on the vehicle!


It easy enough to dismantle it all. The difficult bit is assembling the hub so that the lips of the two hub seals don't get squashed by the sharp rims of the hub assembly & subsequently leak oil. The hub should be packed with grease, a lot of seals get damaged, I have seen this on Humbers done by owners & because of the vehicle history done in service :roll:. This will happen if you don't have the special tool Sleeve FV252151. I had one manufactured. I can give you the dimensions or how to fake one using two sizes of stock metric tubing. The inner seals are unobtainable, a few years ago I had the last ones that Budge had, but the outer seals were obtained from a bearing company the next day delivery.


Once the hub is back on there is a special tool to be made to hold it in position as you remove the aligning sleeve. But I use a wide jawed welding clamp & holds it ok. The grease in the hub is not adequate lubrication, oil has to be injected through the lubricators on the hub housing until it flows into the other joint mounted in the diff.


Before you take the wheel stations apart. Drain oil out of the diff & see if you get metal particles suggestive of diff failure. If the spare shafts came with the vehicle, one has to wonder why the previous owner didn't replace them himself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...