Starfire Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Yep, I've only managed to get it to go from N to F once. Normally, I'd have to stop the engine. F to R or R to F is fine, if you do it quickly and smoothly. It really sucks if your hand slips off the selector and you smash your thumbnail against the dash though :drive: Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 Malcolm,This is what we have been saying all along. You have to go straight from Forward to Reverse ( or vice versa) when shifting the transfer box lever, no hesitating or trying to engage from the central position (with engine running of course). Well, this is embarrassing. The light finally came on. I tried shifting from F to R and R to F today with neutral engaged in the gearbox and ....... it worked perfectly. I was so hung up on going from F to N and then smartly from N to R that I had never tried just going from F direct to R. Thanks, guys. I've got it now. By the way, I'm very impressed with the cross-country abilities of the Ferret. She's a bit noisy and slow on the road but take her off-road and she just soaks up the bumps, encouraging quite rapid travel. Considering the shocks probably haven't been touched since at least 1981, they still seem to be working well. And the preselect gearbox comes into its own off road. Great fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Well, this is embarrassing. The light finally came on. I tried shifting from F to R and R to F today with neutral engaged in the gearbox and ....... it worked perfectly. I was so hung up on going from F to N and then smartly from N to R that I had never tried just going from F direct to R. . That was the point we were trying to convey from the start! Now you can get to enjoy the ride regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeferret Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 on our sary you cant change it very easily at all from reverse to forward but you are right very smartly and very quickly but I find if your moving it into or out of gear it helps too..son has it sorted the best... Did you check engine idle rpm ? It is suppose to be at lowest idle when shifting forward or reverse....Manual calls for 300 to 400 rpm....I have mine at 500 rpm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeferret Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Richard, no dice. It doesn't matter if the gear change pedal is up or down in neutral, the bevel gear teeth clashing is too severe to attempt selecting forward or reverse, gently, firmly, or anywhere in between. I did some experimenting, as the the teeth clashing of the bevel gears in the transfer case with the gearbox in neutral has a distinctive frequency. I selected and engaged each gear in turn and gently pushed the forward/reverse lever forward until the teeth just clashed. In first, the clashing is very slow and forward can be engaged easily with a firm push. In 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th, the clashing frequency gets progressively faster as you would expect. The clashing frequency in neutral most closely matches the clashing in 4th, so I suspect the 4th gear band is binding on the drum a bit, preventing the gearbox output shaft from coasting down to a standstill. I need to read up on the band adjustment and give it a try. Malcolm See my above post about engine idle rpm being too high... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 See my above post about engine idle rpm being too high... It wasn't the idle speed. I wasn't doing it right. All sorted now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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