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A Day in Flanders


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I managed to escape current horrors in my world and headed to Flanders on Saturday. My team managed to miss the rotten weather and we had a good day visiting a few locations we have bypassed on previous visits. The thing with both Flanders and the Somme is that no matter how many times you visit, there is always so much more to do. My big regret is I never saw these places years ago. This Saturday we vied with coachloads of OAPs at one place. But this is what history is about today: tourism. I don't blame the locals at all. Having said this, there are a lot of places the casual tourists never visit and my team are progressively learning where they are.

 

I'm attaching a few images from the day to share. If you need any further info, please ask away....

 

This a view of the restored German trenches at Bayernwald.

 

 

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This is one of the famous Demarcation Stones intended to be placed over France and Belgium after the Great War to show the limit of the German advance. Down the years many have been lost to road widening scheme, Nazi vandalism and other shenanigans. This one is in the middle of "nowhere" between Loker and Kemmel. These monuments were originally intended to have helmets to represent Britain, Belgium and France. But they all ended up with the classic Adrian helmet of France. No complaints here.

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Here is a scene from the famous Last Post ceremony at the Menin Gate. There were two contingents of serving soldiers at the event and plenty of vets and school kids. There was also a piper, who refused to play Amazing Grace when asked. Interesting stuff. I've seen five ceremonies now and they have all been different in terms of numbers and atmosphere. The best was last year when we had an Orange Order band from Scotland. They could play - all the favourites...and some of them were blotto - it never stopped them playing.

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Kemmel or Kemmelberg or Montkemmel was the scene of bitter fighting. Thousands died trying to secure one of the best bits of genuine high ground in Flanders. The following snaps show the beautiful art deco style French monument and a distant British cemetery, which I think is Locre No10.

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Here is a view of the British dugouts and Lettenberg which were excavated in 2004. They are stunning. One of the dugouts is a bat sanctuary. There were none in situ when we visited.

 

The two pix from Lijssenthoek cemetery show the scale of the place. It has over 10,000 graves and is the second biggest British type in Belgium. There are British Empire, Chinese, Germans, French and even a few Americans there (which is unusual, the yanks are usually buried in exclusively US locations.

 

The memorial on the grave of Albert Bogg is one of the finest I've seen. A loving testament from the granddaughter he never saw.

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And finally a view of the Menin Gate - a bit arty perhaps, but I've filmed it so many times.

 

The grave of Joseph Byers at Loker is significant. He was "shot at dawn" and his case changed army law. He did not deny desertion and was given no defence counsel. So they just shot him. After this terrible case the army had to change the way they handled such cases. But the executions went on. I offer no view on this...it was another age.

 

If you'd like to see more battlefield snaps from my travels, let me know

 

Mark

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As requested, here are some more pictures from Flanders.

 

The first batch show Talbot House in Poperinge; the famous Toc H. When I was a kid in London I was a scout in the London branch of Toc H, it was where the founder Tubby Clayton lived. He died in 1972, which was the year I started going there. He was only a short little fella, but he won the MC and was obviously a determined and caring sort of man. I've heard a few allegations about his other "interests" which are not for this forum - but they go some way to perhaps explain things about my scoutmaster!

 

But Tubby deserves his place in heaven for Toc H and it is gratifying that the institution mattered so much it was kept for us all to use and admire to this day. It costs 8 euros to get in,

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more views of Talbot House. It really is as peaceful and as wonderful as it looks. The chapel in the loft is reached by some pretty steep stairs. A good many men chose to be baptised or confirmed there while they could. There are many amazing artefacts and the whole place is full of ghosts. God Bless them, every one.

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Here are two final views of Toc H. The garden is amazing. The notice - Come Into The Garden and Forget About The War is one of several scattered through the place that reflect Tubby's unconventional style and sense of humour. These days they come as fridge magnets at 2 euros a pop. I bought one.

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Here are some more pix from Lijssenthoek. The grave of an American soldier from the 105th Infantry Division, David Stanley Beattie; some Germans and a British nurse Staff Nurse Nellie Spindler, aged 26, from Wakefield. She served with 44 CCS and is one of only two British female war casualties buried in Belgium. The inscription on her grave says A Noble Type Of Good Heroic Womanhood.

 

There's also another view of the closely placed headstones.

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Another view of the Lettenberg dugouts. There are four. It was a British headquarters. Two have been cleared out, but the others are full of earth. The facades look great. The best view is from the road; but access is easy.

While we were there a squadron of typical nutters on bicycles came whizzing by just like Eddie Myrcks.

 

The pix from Kemmel show the French memorial again and the ossuary there which contains the remains of 5,200 Frenchmen, only 57 of whom have been identified.

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The famous Pool of Peace at Spanbroekmolen was originally called Lone Tree Crater. It was made when 91,000 pounds of ammonal were blown during the assault on Messines Ridge on 07.06.1917. Sadly for the Royal Irish Rifles they were ordered to advance too early and caught the full force of the blast and falling debris. The victims are buried in Lone Tree cemetery which has been described as the most beautiful in Flanders. Certainly, it has stunning views. You can see as far as Armentieres and Ploegsteert and even as far as the coal slag heaps over near Loos.

 

The Pool is owned by Toc H, when we were there a cluster of very bored Belgian girls were waiting by their car. They had the distinct look of "You brought us all this way to look at a duck pond" about them....

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And finally....a bog standard view of the Menin Gate - Meenenport in Flemish; and another view of the Last Post. The RBL are to the fore here. You may be interested to know that the group of British squaddies at the back had General Service Corps cap badges, but were led by some maroon beret wearing old sweats.

 

I hope you've enjoyed this ramble. I will start looking out some previous stuff. I think the Scottish band from last summer deserve an outing. I can still hear them!

 

all the best,

 

MB

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This is one of the famous Demarcation Stones intended to be placed over France and Belgium after the Great War to show the limit of the German advance. Down the years many have been lost to road widening scheme, Nazi vandalism and other shenanigans. This one is in the middle of "nowhere" between Loker and Kemmel. These monuments were originally intended to have helmets to represent Britain, Belgium and France. But they all ended up with the classic Adrian helmet of France. No complaints here.

 

 

If I'd had my brain working I'd have corrected this caption. The Demarcation Stones in Belgium DO have different helmets to reflect the three allied armies represented. But in France they all have the standard French helmet. According to Before Endeavours Fade, the most recent edition has been thoroughly revised; there are still 95 of these stones left from the 119 put in place. Interesting. I'll have to look for more.

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The pix from Kemmel show the French memorial again and the ossuary there which contains the remains of 5,200 Frenchmen, only 57 of whom have been identified.

 

What those poor lads went through...

 

It must have been like going into hell itsself.

I think we're all fairly de-sensatised to violence in society now what with telly, video internet & so on... but have come from a small town, village or countryside & be thrown into that lot... jesus... no wonder so many of them never recovered from the emotional wounding.

Don't mind admitting that i doubt if I could have hacked it

Terrific pictures again Snap keep them coming

 

Was this a 'work' trip or a holiday?

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The gate records the names of 54,000 men killed in the Ypres Salient who have no known grave. The named deaths date from 1914 to roughly the 16th August 1917. Unfortunately there was not enough room on the monument to record the further 34,000 names from late 1917 to the Armistice and these had to be put on a new memorial built at Tyne Cot. The gate stands on the site of an original entrance to the city and was opened in 1927 by Lord Plumer, a popular general with the troops. The Last Post ceremony has been held there every day since, barring the period of Nazi occupation. The very day the Nazis quit the town, the towns people held the ceremony.

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