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RR Services...


Jack

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Just wanted to let you know that I called around 4-5 paint suppliers last week with not much luck. In this morning post there were 8 paint samples, painted on little sheets of tin.

 

This was sent to me by Kerry at RR Services http://www.rrservices.co.uk/index2.html . I just wanted to say a big thank you to those guys as the service was most excellent and no prizes for guessing who I will be buying the paint from. Service is king when it comes to business and unfortunately it is something that the majority of UK business's lack so it is refreshing to come across a company that cares!

 

Anyway my next problem, is what colour to choose!

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Karoshi, well,....to confuse, even more,-Jack, stay awake, now............

Counter- Shading Priniples.

1)Top Surfaces darkened.

2)Darkening extended over edges to conceal the shape of these surfaces.

3)Shadow of truck on ground is extended up to the lower edges of the vehicle to break these edges and distort the shadow.

4)Unless catching the sun, windows stand out as black shapes which need to be broken up by the application of dark paint round the edges.

 

As an aside, the glass area's were(still are??) a real problem, so differing idea's were tried.

The germans tried tape, the americans tried a film of oil,- which attracted the dirt/dust etc, and they both employed the folding down of windscreens.

 

Mind you, if you are going the british marking's way, what about the

Mickey Mouse Ear pattern ????????

 

Just a few idea's, for you to mull over.

I can't take the credit for the counter shading info, came from a book,

D-Day to Berlin, by Terence Wise.

 

Andy

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Jack just go with the FULL MATT finish and let it take on its own patina. I'll counter shade itself given time.

 

I agree with Colin,full matt finish.I personnally wouldn't go with the Mickey Mouse pattern on a GMC,might look rather strange.... :shock:

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Jack,

you could spend months reaching what colour to use. You could even get an exact sample from GMC (if that was possible), what ever colour you paint it, at the first show you take to it, some know-it-all will tell you it's the "wrong colour".

Just paint it a colour you like, it's your vehicle after all :lol:

Personally, I like a SATIN/EGG SHELL finish on a preserved MV. My little Ferret is still in MATT Gulf War colour and it is hard to keep clean, the dirt seems to get into the paint. I don't know what others think of a GLOSS finish on MV's, I think it tends to look over the top.

I think in service MV's would have been painted it whatever was available.

Regards

Richard

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I now hate any colour green, it is keeping me a wake at night :oops: :cry: :twisted: :roll:

 

So operation rub down is looking good, gone down to bear metal in most places....

 

Do I have to put primer on first?

How long do I have to leave it before applying the top cost?

Can I use the top coat as the case coat?

How long does the top coat take to dry?

 

 

 

Does he 'G' in GMC stand for Green? :wink:

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Do I have to put primer on first?

Yes

 

How long do I have to leave it before applying the top cost?

Until the base coat is dry

 

Can I use the top coat as the case coat?

No

 

How long does the top coat take to dry?

It will be dry when it's no longer wet

 

 

 

Does he 'G' in GMC stand for Green?

No, it stands for I GIVE up :D

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So operation rub down is looking good, gone down to bear metal in most places....

 

Do I have to put primer on first?

 

 

Jack,

 

As a full time restorer of military vehicles, I prime bare metal with red oxide, a couple of coats if neccessary and use a gloss green as a barrier coat, usually Deep Bronze Green (Land Rover green, available at tractor dealers for good price). You will find if you use red oxide and then finish with matt olive drab that moisture will get through the paint and rust spots can appear.

 

When gloss is dry, flat off with scotchbrite pad or similar and apply your chosen colour. My choice for practical reasons of keeping the vehicle looking tidy is semi matt. It has a slight sheen that goes off after time, but paint is more durable and if oil or grease gets on it, it can be cleaned off without marking the paint. Something that is not possible with dead flat matt.

 

My thoughts on the subject .......

 

Kewelde

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Cheers Kewelde.

 

It has a base coat red oxide and on others parts there is grey undercoat. I have seen red oxide on most farm machinery so why do we use red oxide as a base coat?

 

Also, is a wire brush finish good enough to paint i.e. the wheels?

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