Vulture Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) Guys I’m looking to remove the metal frames with wooden side panels/seats from the cargo back of my CCKW 352. Initial impression is that they haven’t been out for many many years. I’m thinking about squirting copious amounts of penetrating oil / WD40 down the frames as pre-cursor, and getting at least three people to heave / lever away simultaneously. I obviously want to avoid damaging the metal work, so am interested in any hints / tips you can share. Kind regards all Vulture Edited September 14, 2011 by Vulture To improve formating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willysmb Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Heat !!! ... a small gas /propane flame gun will help to remove those troublesome nuts and bolts ... get the nuts and bolts red hot and it will help to free them up.. ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bawtrylwt Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 On mine somebody had screwed the rear reflector on with a long self tapper which had gone into the back upright so it wouldn't come off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 I have no idea on what part you are trying to remove... "metal frames with wooden side panels/seats" ??????? A wooden cargo bed? I understand there is a language barrier... but bhwaa???? It was mentioned to heat the bolts 'red hot' NO!!!!!!!!! You will destroy the bolt's strength and most likely it will twist in two. Heat the NUT ONLY for no more than 10-15 seconds then wait for the heat to penetrate (about a minute) then turn the nut with a wrench. I took apart complete composite and wooden beds and its not hard. And WD-40 is a poor rust penetrant. KROIL is what you want. WD-40 displaces moisture... does nothing to free up rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 I have no idea on what part you are trying to remove... "metal frames with wooden side panels/seats" ??????? A wooden cargo bed? I understand there is a language barrier... but bhwaa???? It was mentioned to heat the bolts 'red hot' NO!!!!!!!!! You will destroy the bolt's strength and most likely it will twist in two. Heat the NUT ONLY for no more than 10-15 seconds then wait for the heat to penetrate (about a minute) then turn the nut with a wrench. I took apart complete composite and wooden beds and its not hard. And WD-40 is a poor rust penetrant. KROIL is what you want. WD-40 displaces moisture... does nothing to free up rust. Deadline - if you read the post carefully it is quite apparent he's trying to remove the complete side assemblies from the bed, and the problem is pulling the steel uprights from the steel pockets on the cargo bed. And what's with this KROIL? I thought you guys used peanut butter for pretty much everything over there But you're quite right, there are some much better alternatives to WD40 over here - I was put onto a really good one but have forgotten the name of it now. Anyone care to suggest a product? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Comma Frost bite, especially good on mixed materials. Burnt gear oil and disiel mix, found that by acident, lubricates and takes rust off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Once you've decided what penetrant to use (even plain diesel would work ok), I'd give them a really good soaking, then periodically whack the socket faces of each stanchion with a heavy rubber hammer or hammer and soft wood, including from inside the body, and ease sides up by levering with some 4 x 2 timber and a tall fulcrum inside the body to save damaging the wooden slats. Just keep at it steadily and evenly, topping up the penetrant and whacking away and levering a little more until the last stubborn one gives up. Once on the move you may need to pull sides up and push down a few times to finally free them. Don't worry if it takes a few days - they'll surrender eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Thanks for the clarification.. There was an Army Motors article about how to remove the stuck/frozen side racks. Basically you wrap a chain around the upright and use the tire jack. I'll post pics of the issue this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 Guys Thanks for the various ideas, I shall be trying them out next weekend, weather permitting. Kind regards to all Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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