teletech

Welcome. I work at an observatory so if you ever get to California and want a tour, look me up. best,

Get some liquid nitrogen, it's not that exotic or expensive, and shrink that pin down. or a chemical options: (some paraphrased from other sources) If the carb is aluminum and not die cast zinc alloy... If you are certain it is aluminum, you can use an oxidizing acid such as nitric acid and the brass will dissolve while the aluminum is passivated in strongly oxidizing conditions. You could try about 5 percent concentration of nitric acid. Don't use hydrochloric (muriatic) or sulfuric (battery acid). If nitric acid hard to come by so another approach is to set up a simple anodizing tank with a battery charger. There is lots of info on homebrew anodizing that will also dissolve the brass while not harming the aluminum. Strong aqueous ammonia plus reasonably concentrated hydrogen peroxide could work, both Cu and Zn forming complexes with NH3 while the H2O oxidises the elemental copper. If you use just ammonia it will dissolve the Zn in the screw (and the casting if it's an alloy with Zn in it so test a place that won't matter) and make it really weak and porous which could aid removal.

loose sliding fit, coming right up. I seemed to recall when I handled a used set they were pretty loose but I just thought I'd see if there was any sort of spec for the fit. I wonder why my new ones need fitting? More interior work done, I got the remaining electrical out so once the remaining bits of fuel system are out I'll have a hull ready for stripping. thanks for the help,

I bought a new driveshaft but it's not right... I have a brand new FV770171 FV770172 pair but they won't slip together. Looks like a bit of pounding will mate them but surely that's not right. Have I got an out of spec part or is minor hand-fitting the norm? It's not much, a little time with a file and grinding compound will make them as tight or loose as appropriate but how much is that? Am I after a light drive fit, tight hand fit, or easy slide fit for these? Interesting that I ordered some new rubber couplers to go with these, they came with an expiration date of 2008. Oh, they were well packaged and I'm sure they are just fine but it does give one pause about the condition of ones in service. Oh, my clutch bolts from ba-bolts came in and they look fine so once I'm done sandblasting the shoes and digging out the broken bolts I can put the clutch back together.

Buy a cheap borescope, or at the very least pull the plugs and look down the bores from every angle you can. You might have a stuck valve, or something else that forcing will make much worse. Assuming you are sure it's just stuck from light rust and inertia I'd suggest pulling the rocker cover and lubricating and then thumping on each valve so they all move. Try something lighter than diesel, "Kroil" works better than I'd have expected. Then rocking it back and forth. If you are really determined I've used an impact gun to good effect in similar situations but often by that time you are resigned to stripping the motor down anyway. good luck,

I don't know about the Saracen but the Fox is extremely unlikely to have it's original engine. Armored vehicles are very heavy and tend to have low power to weight ratios so it is common for them to be up near the top of their operating range. Add to this the fact that it's really hard to pull air through an armored louver set compared to a normal radiator so cooling is a serious problem and you have almost the perfect way to go through a lot of motors. The usual way was to yank out whatever motor was in there and drop in a reconditioned one so if there was ever a failure that motor is someplace else now. Imagine taping a few vent grills over the front of your car, filling the seats and trunk until the tires bulge, and then drove it in the yellow range of your tachometer all the time and you get a feeling for the life these motors live. I gather 500 hours was the average life of a Jag motor in a CVR(T), if you think of military driving as hurry-up-and-wait so perhaps a third at idle, a third mid-range, and a third at speed... 25mph * 500 hours = motor change every 12500 miles! Of course, that's a pretty good amount of miles for armor so perhaps some still have original motors?

Next time you are having issues with your Cummins CVR(T) fuel system not bleeding after fuel system work and before you replace the fuel pump, you might check your non-return valve. Ever wonder what's inside one of these? Me neither, I just assumed it was a plate or ball and a spring which was about right. The problem was, I couldn't get the system to prime and cracking the high side it appeared the fuel pump wasn't working. Some fully charged batteries and a replacement fuel pump later it still wouldn't work. Suction applied to the output resulted in fuel but it slowly drained back down. I finally decided it had to be a bad non-return valve (the one by the tank) and on removal (yep, a smelly, oily job in a cramped space... you have to love armor) and disassembly there was a bit of what looks like straw or grass in there allowing fuel to return from the outlet of the pump to the input. This valve is located before any filters. Really I rather wonder why there is even a fuel pump bypass in these vehicles? The pump is run all the time anyway which actually is a bad idea since it makes fuel system damage more likely to result in a fire and wears the pump for no good reason, mine is on a switch so I can just run it when priming the system. You can draw fuel through the pump with minimal restriction even if it's not running and if it's valves get a little punky running the pump will tend to clear it so part of me is tempted to remove this valve and cap the ports but I do worry the perhaps the stock Bendix pump might not have the volume at the very top end? I haven't put it all back together but I'm sure when I do my symptoms will be gone. So, next time you are chasing fuel gremlins, remember that even a part with just a couple moving pieces can cause you trouble and it's good to clean out this valve when doing fuel tank cleaning. good luck out there,

Welcome, I run the telescopes for an observatory so there a few science nerds around. I'd like a Ferret but apparently my mid-life issue was bigger so I needed CVR(T). regards,

As suspected, you really should have at least two. I did a 1sq' patch in two passes, remove the top two coats with the Crud Thug and finish with the Dynabrade. It used less paper and effort than either method alone and gave me results nearly equal to just sanding. Elapsed time 6:42. If you hold a vacuum hose near during sanding it gets more than half of the mess, not nearly as clean as my electric sanders but with the reduced tool weight still feels like a more ergonomic option for this job but I might feel differently if I were doing more than a few sq' at a time. While I was at it I thought I'd try a couple more options. Perter-Cable "dustless, take-about" Well, I said option but not really. This sander belonged to my great-grandfather who was clearly a better man than I. It is massive and unwieldy, it does however take off paint and anything else it touches. I lost some time wrangling the rather effective but highly awkward dust hose, I lost more getting the low spots on the sponson, the 120 grit belt took some time too but left the shiniest patches yet. Elapsed time 4:39 for much of it but it took 6:15 to get a look at what I was doing and hit the dips. I'd consider it for large flat areas if the belts weren't an obsolete size that is expensive if you can even find them. Porter-Cable 448 These sanders are pretty legend in woodworking circles and though discontinued years ago command high prices on epay for even a parts donor, the previous model ran a little slower and is the most controllable tool of it's type I've ever used. I am lucky to have this one because a friend retired and moved to a country with no 110VAC so he loaned it to me. The nice belt speed coupled with somewhat reasonable size makes it more usable than you might think and not just for sponsons. You can run it nose-up and the belt traction will hold it up, you just have to push it against the hull and move it around. Even at that, I managed to ding a footman loop pretty good with a moment of inattention! That said, they are messy! This is reflected in the time taken to strip a chunk of hull. 3:31 I've just ordered a wet blasting add-on kit for my pressure washer so I'll have more experimentation to do as I hope to add information for: wet blast wet sand with dynabrade Jasco paint and epoxy remover Hopefully I'll figure out the best way to remove paint before I run out of paint to remove!

Aw, heck. I just had the lads at xmod ship another big box a couple days back too. Well, thanks for the heads-up, I've added it to my favourites for next batch since it seems unlikely I won't need more spares! I notice my originals are steel ball-bearings underneath and phenolic around the perimeter. I imagine the steel ones might work better when new but be more likely to seize up, any thoughts as to why the change?

Having found more sharpie under the paint just forward of Belle... I guess it was Memphis Belle. It seems likely my vehicle had a name and a very unexpected one for a Belgian vehicle!

It was fun and expensive but the first time was hard on the body so I thought I'd try the more expensive strippers... Festool sander: An expensive and large electric sander with expensive single-source paper, what's not to like? Really, this is a *nice* tool, it's smooth, quiet, and powerful, as it should be for $600 and another $300 for a vacuum to go with it plus over $2 for a disc of paper. The paper is a drawback since it's got a funny hole pattern and isn't actually especially good paper compared to what I'm used to. But how does it work? Well, it works OK. The dust collection is nothing short of amazing and the tool has very low vibration. Paper life is pretty good (they are using better paper than for the RS400). Material removal wasn't really any better than the Dynabrade sander but the tool is much heavier and the 6" is actually a lot less nimble than the 5" sander so it is more work to use overall. The surface finish is nice but I don't care for this project since flat paint is to be used. Of course, the time saved on cleanup should count for something and if I didn't have the compressor to run the pneumatic sander that might make it worthwhile. I used 80 grit since I had nothing coarser, I'd suggest trying 60 grit as a starting point. time 6:40 to pretty good, 7:20 to a standard even cleaner than the others. Festool pad sander RS400EQ I don't like this sander that much because it uses uncommon (single-source in the US at least) paper that is very well bonded but doesn't cut very well. that takes a lot of the joy out of an otherwise nice tool that has pretty low vibration and excellent dust extraction. time 8:09 for a good removal. Snap-on tools straight-line sander. I bought this many years ago and have found very little use for the tool, It is good for smoothing body filler though. I had hoped it might finally find another function. Nope. Not as bone-jarring as a needle scaler but still a tool that will destroy your nervous system from vibration in short order. It unsurprisingly was the flattest surface and least manouverable sander I've tried so far. The paper was cheap and it did work. If you were going to use water it might be more worth it. Time 9:51 It is interesting that most of the sanders take a pretty similar amount of time to do a pretty similar job with the same grit paper. I suppose this is helpful because you hopefully can work out removal rate with different sanders and grits and have it scale. Thinking of making paper last and such, I'm tempted to try a wet slurry setup with my pneumatics but since I'd want to try that outside it will have to wait.

I've had a hard time getting media-blasting businesses to return my calls but I'm open to the idea, especially if I decide to fully strip the interior. Doing it myself would be a challenge since a had a neighbor call the cops on me when I just washed the vehicle outside my shop. (worried about radioactivity, yes it was in the wrong conflicts and even then the 20 years since it was in service... but you can't argue with crazy) I suppose I could set up an indoor space but it's *awfully* messy. Stay tuned as I plan to try some more expensive strippers for a better outcome.

Thanks for the kind words. Well, regarding the motor I considered various options. There was a part of me that was very tempted to do a re-power since the more I read about the 4.2 motor the less I want one, but since a low-speed diesel wants a gearbox and I couldn't find a high-speed diesel in a price that worked for me. I seriously thought about a gasoline repower despite the originality argument, the Ford 300 motor would be perfect but the manifolds were on the wrong side. The Jeep 4.0 was interesting: it had the manifolds on the right side and the power was about right but then timing came into play, the local wrecker had a 50% off sale and there was a 1986 XJ6 in the yard so I went down and picked that up. The 1986 motor has most of the good things going for it with the hardened crankshaft, block cuts, and partial sleeves. So I just need to freshen it up a touch and should be good for a long while. Now, the compression is normal which could be an issue if I were using really poor fuel and I need to be concerned about heat, my plan is to use water injection which will drop my head and EGTs dramatically. I like the idea of a TV show rebuild but I suspect the facts I've already started and parts are thin in the states work against it.

http://www.dtrvms.com/def_stl.asp I wonder if they really mean it? I also wonder what it costs, more than I want to pay I'd expect but it's good to know someone is interested in continued production.

Good points both. With the US govt. not willing to sell armor to civilians the market for that is very steep so we poor folks in the USA are forced to import. There are plenty of transport trucks for sale. I think the recent decision to sell rather than continue to destroy HMMWVs has a lot of people buying one for their collection which lets other vehicles sit wanting. As to the atmosphere: While many folks think it's really cool, I've had a couple people who really were very abrasive in a "why do you have such a thing?" manner. I've even had a couple of my neighbors call the county health services and the police, worried about toxic chemicals or radioactive residue (wrong wars, people, but you can't argue with insanity. If I didn't have to worry about more troubles I'd be looking for a heavy transport rig for towing/hauling a CVR(T).

Interesting to see them still in use. from http://rpdefense.over-blog.com/tag/uk/4 25 mars 2015 Regular and Reserve personnel from 17 Port & Maritime Regiment RLC have conducted a beach landing with 42 vehicles from a military Mexeflote floating pontoon. The vehicles included CVR(T) Scimitars, Mastiffs, Wolfhounds, Stormers and a Terrier Armoured Digger, all belonging to regiments of 3rd (UK) Division. The ‘ship to shore discharge’ of military vehicles at Browndown Beach in Hampshire concludes Exercise Tractable, a divisional exercise moving 1650 personnel and approximately 570 vehicles by land, air and sea, designed to test the rapid deployment of 3 Div’s Lead Armoured Task Force.

Thanks for the link. I saw those in my search but they wanted £15 for shipping to the US! I would have done it but then I found some from BA BOLTS LIMITED with a much better shipping price. They are of an unknown hardness (not specified in the description), too long (I'll cut them down), and untreated (I'll parkerize them myself) but they are on their way. This means I have enough parts to assemble one complete clutch unit. Of course, I need two so if anyone has spares that aren't too dear I'd love to know about it.

Spare hour, more like a spare day to get a good sense of thing.

Thanks so much for the scan, it confirms my fear that it's a #2BA bolt. At least I know what to hunt for.

I've gotten almost everything to put my clutch back together but need some funny little bolts: I'd very much like the part number or other specifications for the bolt that holds the clutch lining on the shoe in petrol gearbox vehicles. thanks much,

F/MT 1004 from 2012 for a Scimitar. These pages were found in the logbook I got for a vehicle I have and were stapled to the log pages for that vehicle, apparently in error. If you have this vehicle and have an interest in this material PM me, similarly if you happen to have wayward pages for 02FF10 I'd love to hear from you.

http://www.ima-usa.com/ has some reasonably affordable ones. Good luck,

Easily done with the large-body CVR(T) but there isn't much room in the turreted models. I suppose if one were to sacrifice the rear ammo racks one could fab a tank... The annual range runs from just barely freezing to about 90F, a daily range is typically about 20F The sight window in my sender housing is already bad from whatever was in the tank, is there an easy fix for this? The fuel tanks assembly is one of the last bits I've not stripped out of my hull, I have to finish emptying it first.

A friend of mine said he remembered hearing the fuel bladder in the Scorpion/Sabre/Scimitar would fail if alcohol-based fuels were used. Has anybody seen this or had any reports? If so was this a minor blend or only if it was heavy blend? In California all pump gasoline contains up to 10% ethanol so I need to get this figured out before I add fuel. thanks,