teletech

And a TIG welder as well but I didn't want to scare anyone without cause. Well, I have a good stock of Helicoils on hand but am also considering electrochemical removal for steel bolts in Al as an option. I've considered buying time-serts which are much more costly than Helicoil but look really nice installed. I wonder, is it worth considering bolts other than steel for things like fixing bins? Al, stainless, bronze,... I must get out my chemistry book and look at the potentials.

I'm curious, what was the function of the cheese grater armour, I'd assume is is to provide spacing against shaped-charge but why retain it once the bar armour is fitted?

Anybody else win something on Ebay from this fellow (rapidrigger) and willing to post this for me? My poor Sturgeon looks worse than necessary from having one crushed in shipping (what really hurt is it ran into a nice spare radiator and totaled that). thanks,

Looks like last year was a good time so I've decided to go this year. Who else is going and can anybody help me out with CVR(T) bits? May 29-30 http://www.ontrmuseum.ca/OMVAevent.htm http://www.ampsgreatwhitenorth.com/default.aspx

Oh, good catch and thanks. Even worse I forgot a grease gun! Perhaps when we have a more complete set you can translate it to it's native language.

I've been busy tearing down a Scorpion lately so cleaning off the sponson one day I took inventory and thought it might be of help to someone starting out. I also made a note of what I remember using them for. I've been editing this as I find yet one more tool I didn't need until later so some more specific bits have shown up. I'd love to hear of any additional things that should be in every CVR(T) owner's shop to make life better. 18"+ prybar: general moving of things but it's nice if it will slip in between links to separate track bent needlenose pliers: radiator fin grooming/straightening needlenose vicegrips : cotter pins, parking brake lines small flatblade screwdriver: half-shaft caps cut off track pin: alternator cap screws track pin punches. track clamp Jacking strut grease gun: track slack adjustment large ball-peen hammer and/or small sledge lifting rope or cable: engine and transmission removal, engine deck removal 6" C-clamps (Q=2) supporting track, closing parking brakes, misc 6"+ capacity gear puller: clutch removal 1/4" punch: half-shaft pin depression blunted 1/2"+ punch or 2-1/2" hook spanner: clutch nut removal. Large internal circlip pliers: clutch bearing medium/small external circlip pliers: clutch actuation piston circlips Ball-joint separator: damper links 2" length of 1/4"-20TPI hardened threaded rod plus fender washers and nut(s): removal of torsion rod retaining pins. anti-corrosive joint compound (Mastinox or similar, note that many of these are known carcinogens) gloves: both work gloves and disposable gloves (see above) 7/16" wrench: brake lines, electrical cables 1/2" wrench: battery cables, electrical boxes 9/16" wrench 5/8" wrench: brake caliper disassembly 1-5/16" wrench: heat exchanger hoses, also the nuts backing the lifting eyes 1/4"drive 9/16" socket: starter, and the shorter this socket is the better. 10-12" wobble extension: starter 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet 3"+ extension sockets for 1/4" or 3/8" drive 7/32" allen socket: torsion par retaining pin caps 2BA socket (5/16" socket works): clutch linings 7/16" socket: electrical fittings, covers 1/2" socket: electrical mounts 1/2" universal joint socket: needed for removing the exhaust manifold with the oil cooler still fitted, a wobble extension might work. 1/2" deep socket 9/16" socket: hydraulic cylinders socket for 3/8" or 1/2" drive 3/16" allen socket (or wrench) removal of torsion rod retainer covers. 5/16" allen socket (or wrench) removal of steering discs. extra long 3/8" allen socket: steering caliper removal 5/8" socket, fairly thin wall: clutch disassembly 1/2" drive 3/4" socket :many mechanical items starting with engine decks ratchet torque wrench breaker bar 3"+ extension 9"+ extension some combination of extensions for 20"+: rear outside motor mount 11/16" extra deep socket or shell wrench: hull drain control 13/16" socket: sprockets 15/16" socket 1-1/8" socket: final drive drain plugs Not essential but REALLY helpful are: floor jack: lifting final drives, they balance pretty well on their drain plugs. impact wrench forklift or crane drill and bits for removing broken bolts (1/8",1/4",3/8",7/16") broken bolt extractors: so far the only ones I've been unable to remove without drilling are the steering caliper cap screws. electric grease gun, those slack adjusters can take a lot of grease! aircraft remover/ paint remover pneumatic needle scale gun vibratory/oscillating knife: removing interior compartment foam. 1/4"-20TPI rethreading tap: cleanup of torsion rod retaining pins. 7/16"-14TPI rethreading tap: cleanup of torsion rod retaining caps. Tap wrench for the above taps. Rags, LOTS of rags. spare clothes (including shoes) so you can go home and not have your spouse throw you out. tools specific to the MOD Cummins repower vehicles: I've not done anything beyond pulling the head so I'm sure there must be more to add. 8mm wrench:hose clamps and fuel line brackets. 10mm wrench: turbo oil return 15mm wrench: that one bold you can't get with a socket removing the turbo. 19mm wrench: injection lines (OK, I used an adjustable wrench so I'm not positive) 8mm socket: hose clamps and fuel line brackets. 13mm socket: exhaust manifold bolts, rocker arm mounts, general mechanical 15mm socket: exhaust manifold nuts, turbo mount, valve rocker covers 18mm socket: head bolts It would be handy to have a list of real-world essential spares as well, hopefully listing both FV#s and commercial parts for things like the steering pads. Steering caliper pistons Jaguar Part Number 11365 316

Well, I caught something of a break, well a few things broke actually. I had to drill out the cap screws holding the steering calipers to the gearbox, the .25" pilot hole sunk easily enough. Sadly the larger bits had a really rough time, out into the hardening of the bolt or something. I eventually stepped them out and tried a broken bolt extractor (Snap-on so not junk), snapped it right off. Oh, great, a nice hardened steel plug in my hole, that could have been really bad. Luckily I had drilled a large enough hole deep enough that I was able to pry on the caliper and break what was left of the bolt. I still wasn't at all looking forward to just job of drilling out the lower portion of the bolt but it turns out it was only the head that was a problem, the threaded remnant came right out. All four of my steering calipers look really nasty, the friction material popped right off all the pads, even the ones that weren't very rusty. Looking at that I'd suggest everybody install new pads if you don't positively KNOW yours are not rusted or contaminated!

Ah, that makes sense! thanks for the info, makes me more confidant there isn't any other damage I need to look for other than cleaning out the tube well.

The one that gets me is how I managed to have 2/3 of a fuel tank full of water. the fuel cap recessed into the top deck and having no way to shed water, a simple drain cut off to the side and run out the hull would have been a huge help. Still, it has it's blessings after all, how would we recognize each other without that special "old tank smell"? If you think the wife is nonplussed now, let's just say I recommend having some designated fussing with armor clothes that you either wash yourself or quietly dispose of after use.

More progress, the turret is off the vehicle. I need to get back to my real job but I just noticed I *could* take tomorrow off but the two hour drive each way... hmm... not sure what do do next anyway. I suppose I'll go to the effort of dragging what's left outside to pressure-wash the hull before doing much more and then I need to decide between a needle-scaler and paint stripper for the outside lower hull. Of course I need to locate the holes for the Messiers and it seems like it would be a good time to do that while the drives are out. I know I saw instructions around here somewhere... Pictures: water flowing out of the final drive, the back half of the driveshaft after some pounding so it's finally coming out. Also the damage to the front torsion bar tunnel, I wonder what happened there? The suspension seems normal now so I assume a broken bar as some past time, perhaps a thrown track or something as there is also damage to the very rear hull where the grousers dug in. It was well displaced upward along much of it's length, I've pounded it flat and will TIG it up before the new gearbox goes in.

Oh no, anything but rain proof. Turns out armor is very often very leaky from above. The hatches tend to be leaky, turret bearings don't really seal, etc. The main cause is the ventilation system for the engine, the bit that would be the front grille on a passenger vehicle winds up pointing upwards! Add to that the bottom of the hull is armored and you have created a perfect system for collecting water (and dirt, all the dust and dirt that gets pulled through the louvers or shed as they are walked-on settles and stays). There is a drain in the hull but for whatever reason it often isn't opened or winds up clogged (I found a dead bird and a much battered round of .308 in my engine bay along with the 30lbs or so of soil) so it is VERY common for CVR(T) to have inches to have over a foot of water in them if they were not carefully stored which wrecks all sorts of havoc on the hydraulics and such.

Well, based on the amount of water that came out of the final drive I decided to remove the other one as well which drained rusty so obviously that was the thing to do. They will both be replaced with good spares from the Sturgeon that was in good working order back in 2013.

Just got it. The final drive was captive on the brake caliper so I couldn't remove it. I managed to disassemble the steering caliper which made room for the brake caliper to slide out so I could remove the final drive. some pounding and the rest of the driveshaft came out so I expect I should have the gearbox on the ground in :15 whew.

There is a bulge in the steering caliper so it has to come inboard about 1/4" before sliding out. it looks like you could do that up top but my steering calipers won't come off to make room. So: I can't get the final drive out without removing the brake caliper. I can't seem to get the brake caliper out past the gearbox. If I could remove the gearbox I wouldn't be removing the final drive. I've tried lifting the gearbox to slide it over just slightly but as has been rightly pointed out, the mounts in the hull are very restrictive. If I try to remove the final drive it might allow me a slightly better angle, or wedge things in even worse. clues?

Here's where I'm stuck. One driveshaft stuck in the gearbox. If I have to pull a final drive, do I pull the one on the stuck side or pull the one on the free side just to make room?

Luckily I had a spare driver's floor. A couple photos showing my sponson straightening rig and a picture of my front sponson after some work. It's stretched enough I expect to need heat or cutting to get it flat but at least I don't slide off while walking on it now.

decks off and my entry to the "most rusted exhaust system" contest.

I've got the decks off, motor, bulkheads, and hydraulics out. Pumped 65 gallons of water out of the gas tank. I've split both tracks and gotten one driveshaft out of the gearbox. The other driveshaft won't come out, I pushed in what was left of the pin and pulled the shaft. The outside half of the shaft came out but the inner section connecting the gearbox to the final drive is still stuck. I'm not sure if I should try removing brake caliper and the final drive on that side or if there is a better solution?

The state of things on arrival: Instrument cluster-missing traverse gearbox-missing exhaust system- so rusted it was just a pile int the mesh motor-flooded for years, total write-off tracks- droopy but not awful sprockets- excellent road wheels- mostly good, about 3 peeling badly hydraulics- pipes rusted away, total overhaul needed. turret basket- completely frozen steering calipers- just lumps of rust really, total overhaul at least clutch-frozen into one lump gearbox- hard to say, the oil looks good at least. I had hoped to not need to completely strip out the running gear but the cap-screws for the steering calipers stripped out so I guess the gearbox is coming out along with the rest of it.

I'm not sure what this thread will add to the current body of knowledge but thought it might be helpful for somebody, I guess doing it in another country is a bit novel and will have some different challenges here and there. Partly so the history of this particular vehicle is documented. It seemed like a good idea at the time? About 9-months back I bought a Scorpion-turreted Scimitar from Terry Brooks. It took months and stupid amounts of money to get to sunny California but it's here and the project has grown. I had hoped to just do some repairs and then have something to tinker with, but not I know why most CVR(T) repair / restoration threads at some point show a stripped hull. Attached is a photo of 65247 I was luck enough to find in-service during one of the Somali operations and a couple photos at it was being unloaded from the container. At first I thought it was really dirty white paint but looking closely it seems to be a thin, faded, and flaking layer of what we used to call khaki but now that we keep fighting in the desert seems to have as many names as an Eskimo has words for snow so that suggests service after Rwanda as well but I'm not sure where to find that information.

Ah, interesting. I happen to have one of those boxes and it looked obviously comms. but I've been waist-deep in mechanical issues so not even begun to ponder radio equipment, I just know it must be 100+lbs. thanks,

Chris, thanks as always for the inspiring photos. I'm curious, what is the box mounted at the top of your hull, rear-left corner, replacing the vision-block? thanks, P_

I am made uneasy by how small a distance aluminum has to travel to change from soft to slag but I'll give it a go. I had a lump of 3/8" wall 4" box tubing and remembered my Porta-power. After configuring it as a 10-ton hydraulic C-clamp I had a go. Starting with some of the smaller distortions along the sides worked well so I moved around to the front. Thus far I was able to remove about half of the distortion. The metal is just too stretched in one area to do more without cutting or heat so I'll break out the torch rig and see where that leads. thanks,

Better advice than my friend who suggested "Scorpitar". Of course that was better than his other: "Simian". Now, what about a sturgeon without the MCT installed but the box is there, is it a Spartan or not?

Thank you for the restoration thread, I'm just getting started on mine and it's inspiring to see people getting on with theirs. It's also nice when you look at your wreck and know someone had it worse in some area and managed to overcome. I'm looking forward to a 2015 update so I can see how things are coming. Looks like a good job straightening your front sponson, how big a hammer did you need and did you use and heat?