matchlesswdg3

Negative, Paul.

The satin finish is more durable and protective, but as you found can look over shiny. But it weathers. You will find by the end of the Summer that the shine dies down. I actually painted my Matchless using only a brush and the finish was very even......at least with the paint I used which was very forgiving. Some folk use a roller.......probably better on large flat areas. When I replaced the petrol tank, I did use my spray gun, but that is just a cheap one, more often used for doing fences! Nevertheless, with olive drab it sprayed very evenly and looked great.....until the petrol got it! But for me, I really dont need a flawless finish as I think these bikes look MUCH better with a used look, which is far more authentic for something in-service rather than factory fresh (actually, probably much better than the factory bothered to produce). Depends what you want to replicate.

I think its a matt finish. I actually sprayed it into the lid and applied using a brush to the criticsl areas, once Inhad satisfied myself it was not going to cause more harm thsn good! Test a bit first. It does alter the finish, which does not bother me as I favour the "lived in" look, which is just as well due to the standard of MY painting! I think Ron uses it as well....he may have some words of wisdom and as you know his finishes are really good. When I last painted my tank, I made the mistake of riding with a full tank over rough ground and the filler cap seal on a Matchless pie crust cap is pretty sketchy, so I had paint lifting up all round the cap after that.

Just be very aware that your nice freshly painted tank is HIGHLY susceptible to attack from petrol spills! Many nice new finishes have been wrecked this way, decals and all. I use a matt/satin petrol resistant lacquer from Halfords on the more at risk areas, like around the filler and over decals.

Now you are being silly, Ron; when I was ordering my tartan paint, they told me that plug gaps are only available in metric sizes these days.

You have the bar end plugs, but have you got the bar end weights that DRs used to improve the handling? I use standard ones on the Matchless but I know that Norton used longer ones to account for the girder set up. I think Russels have them. Give them a ring, and tell them you have a Norton and that you want a long weight.

Thanks again, JJ. I think it still has its side repeaters intact. Unfortunately it has lost the rather trick original dashboard lights switch, but I note those are readily available, so that might go back on. A new top would smarten it up, but first priority would be a new set of boots and I guess that is £500s worth. I want a ball hitch and it looks like the tow electrics socket is u/s.......which brings me to the wiring, which is original and pretty much intact, but I understand now a bit questionable. Anyhow, I am sure a running resto' would work.

Thanks, JJ! Useful comments. I did have trawl around to check out spares availability and that seems fairly good. This one is a perfectly decent runner but, like yours, it sounds like, will be economically not worthwhile doing a full restoration - just a fun vehicle that looks the biz and drives better than its WW2 equivalent - and with more space! I would just whack on some NL decals to give it back its identity - certainly its not going to be another Band of Bros wannabe!

Thanks; gives a bit of an indication but I get the impression that original condition is all, at least as something military.

Trying to come up with a sensible offer on the above....1953, 40k miles. It runs v well....on the button, quiet engine; brakes just done, so mechanically good although poss clutch replacement due soon and crankcase seal seems to have a leak. Bodywork, tidy but a bit tired, dings and one fibreglass front wing. Chassis pretty much sound but front half of floor panel is fibreglass. Fittings/electrics a little messed around with - lighting switch replaced with modern Halfords type, horn button now on dash......that sort of thing. Seats fine, hood/top tired. Tyres likely needing replaced. All up, its a working-fine Jeep and has been looked after as a family hack, always garaged and loved, but a long way from being a show vehicle. How to price that???

That ceremonial Landie is now up for sale by a dealer at I recall £5k more than the auction price.

Thanks, Clive! I will arm myself. It is amazing (depressing?) how many of us supposedly intelligent yoomans cannot get our heads round elektrickery!

Very useful - thanks, Clive (and Andy). These pics show a little of what remains from the internal FFR fitments. Thats all the photos I have for now.

Clive.....I know its not much to go on, but can you draw any conclusions as to the engine I illustrate above (not the photo with the arrow).......looks all there and relatively unmolested? I am totally unfamiliar with the 24V engine. Thank you.

I once stripped the paint off a Lightweight Land Rover........boy THAT was a pain and had to resort to everything to shift the many layers. Even then! I did not get itball off my sny means, but at least to an even stable surface for painting and drab paint is kind in not showing up defects so much. But the gradual strip was interesting, revealing the many lives of an Army landie and I found an unusual and distinctive unit marking on the doors in the shape of a George Cross. A few years later after I had sold it on, unfortunately, a bloke came haring over the field at War & Peace Show, very excited at finding what had been his Royal Field Artillery battery's "run- around" truck!

Well here is that very 24V engine I had in mind. It looks pretty busy to me, but all present and correct? I would motnhave a clue on this stuff, althpugh Inguess the pancake air filter is not original! Has what Inthink is a rebuild plate and owner reckons number has been ground off the onlong under the manifold. The brass plate shows (not sure these numbers were read correctly) "524139/4" and "K11420010". The first 5 may be an S for an exchange engine? The "K" number may indicate workshop and 20 thou oversize pistons and 10 thou crank regrind? Thats if its vaguely similar to other rebuild plates Inhave seen described.

I understood all that up to "As far as British military vehicles go....". Look, its just smoke in the wires and 24V has faster smoke than 12V so things happen.....betterer. Right?

I already use an additive in my fuel to combat the effects of ethanol. More cost, though!

For example, running a 24V Land Rover, I understand that the 24V systems on FFRs and Wolfs is robust and better than the 12V, inherently (?), but what are the downsides? Cost of components may be one....significant? Availability of parts?

There is a bit of film.....somewhere on the web....of Jack riding his 16h in Tunisia. There are stills of that in his book. Ron may know where you can get at the film, or maybe ask on the M20 forum.

I don't know how easy it is to get this little self-published book by Jack Dienst about his army career in WW2, in N Africa as a motorcycle fitter in the R Signals and especially keen on the Norton 16h. Jack lived near me until his death some 10 years ago, in a bungslow he built himself. A real rogue and his book is highly irreverent! A must-read for you!

This is the Lee Enfield kill switch, but it might fit?

One's not enough......check out Milweb today!

And replied! Thanks!

I wonder if there is any kind person living in Swansea/Gower Peninsula area who could have a look at a Lightweight Landie for me? I live in Kent and it would be good if I could get an independent rough appraisal on this truck without an 8 hour round trip. Mainly its a question of checking out the underpinnings, as usual. Mechanically it seems good and numbers check out.