andypugh
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Everything posted by andypugh
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I think a lot of this "information" comes from the US and might not be UK-relevant. If you are worried about ethanol then avoid the E10 petrol. BP Ultimate, for example, contains only dead dinosaurs.
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Any idea what date that is? It's absolutely lovely.
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I think it is slightly lower than possible....
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At that price I could be tempted. Does it have no rear suspension at all? There is no clearance between the bed and the wheels.
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US 1917 Westfield Columbia "Military Model" Bicycle
andypugh replied to Le Prof's topic in Pre WW2 vehicles
If you wanted the Nickel look (and I really like it, myself) then I think that a chrome plating shop would have no trouble putting a layer of Nickel on top of the chrome. They still use an under-layer of nickel to flatten the surface. The parts I have had nickel plated were just a case of saying "don't bother with the chrome" -
Just claim that they are lead-replacement pellets. Almost certainly exactly as effective.
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I found this video by accident today: I don't know if the technique would be applicable to hood bows.
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While we are talking patterns, here is one heading for AJD in the next few days. It's a 3D-printed pattern with loose parts. https://goo.gl/photos/mcntuhQMHmtm7vBp8
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Modelboard (PU foam) is even nicer, but you probably don't want to pay market rates for it. It makes a cleaner mess than MDF Ah yes! Araldite, the Greek goddess of adhesives. :-) I recently heard a rumour that Araldite had been bought by EvoStick and the name was gone, but sedulous internet research proved the rumour to be unfounded.
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And if you can find an original, 3D scanning is not that expensive now. You can scan a whole person for £199 and have a model made: https://www.imakr.com/en/home/675-mini-you-the-ultimate-selfie.html#/size-8_inches Scanning inanimate objects is a bit cheaper: https://www.imakr.com/en/content/37-3d-scanning-sevice For a few thousand you can buy your own scanner.
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I keep meaning to get some of that. I am actually printing patterns at the moment (machine tool parts) and I have been using "knifing putty" to fill the texture to good effect. It comes under a variety of names (Spat-o-Rapid is one, and Halfords sell a variant. My current tube is https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/3m-acryl-red-glazing-putty-409g.html#sthash.0Cf4Xyk0.dpbs which makes it sound likr something for holding windows in)
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What finishing processes do you use on the 3DP? (I don't think that the main pattern is how it came off of the printer?)
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I was wondering if that would work, and also if the male masters could be made by silicone-casting the internal shape of the original part. (this might have to be done in stages and involving the use of cunning at the three-way intersection)
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Is there any chance of using ADI? (Austempered Ductile Iron). That's basically cast-iron with a post-casting heat-treatment. Excellent stuff, I did some fatigue testing work on it for JCB (a long time ago) and it was impressively strong and tough. (And I pretty much failed to make it fail by fatigue, the fatigue resistance is excellent) http://www.bascastings.co.uk/austempered-ductile-iron/ This foundry seems to suggest they have made ADI parts for artists/sculptors, which sounds promising for one-offs. http://www.durhamfoundry.com/austempered-ductile-iron.html
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There is a nice example of imaginative use of laser-cut profiles here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?47662-1914-Dennis-Lorry&p=489953#post489953
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That looks like an easy part to make by submitting a drawing to a laser-cutting emporium.
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My plan A in this situation was to re-machine the adaptor to suit my spindle. But then you have a more common lathe than me, so can probably be more confident in what you will get. Mine was a stub MT4.5 in some dimensions, but with a more round-number taper.
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They have become very affordable, this is the one I have: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTC-3D-Printer-Dual-Extruder-MK8-Factory-Direct-Lowest-Price-ABS-PLA-/221783391069?hash=item33a351fb5d:g:b60AAOSwBs1XMZXh
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I have used molasses and water (10:1 water to Lyles Black Treacle). It isn't fast, but it is very gentle, and the results are good. As a bonus, I don't feel bad about pouring something that I would cheerfully drink down the drain. Pictures 5 and 15(?) here: http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/1921-ner-car.html
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Oooh! Yes please, nice to see something a bit more modern in these parts :-) As for the theory about freezing water bending the conrod, it sounds preposterous... But the photos clearly show that nothing was moving while it happened, so Occams Razor leads me to agree with your theory.
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Yes, that really is quite Rad top tank, isn't it?
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If it is using Pathpilot then there is a bit of a coincidence there, I work on LinuxCNC.
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I wish there was a way to make deliberately-inserted links stand out from the random (and generally completely irrelevant) links that the forum software inserts.
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For making springs like that it is probably better (and easier) to use piano wire. You can bend it cold, and it will need no heat-treatment. Cheap on eBay, I keep various sizes in stock. I might as well mention that I have a lot of 1/4" spring wire left after as I had to buy a 20-foot roll.
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It's interesting that Dennis went through a number of iterations of steel+bronze universal joint variants (see Ben's threads for examples) before going on to use something a lot like those Thornycroft couplings. The odd thing is that they used Hooke's joints out of the gearbox, but bizarre and rubbish alternatives elsewhere.