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There are from modern methods (BUT to be paid for) :- http://www.dirdim.com/port_featuredprojects.php?fileName=fp_jeepframereproduction There will be blueprints out their from earlier sources , such as the original manufacturers in USA , Hotchkiss Drawings will also have filtered out - BUT again it would cost you . What is wrong with a steel tape , steel ruler , vernier and traditional lofting from your own chassis ? The only problem being - where exactly are your main "true-lengths" within the manufacturing drawing tolerance and that would only be a must (for accurate reproductions) if you were batch manufacturing components and for a full frame jig welding fixture / trunion. The same is applicable to the Bantam chassis scanning , high in BS ,,

Well the proposed asking ££ is high BUT will it take off ?? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3078401/Rocket-sale-needs-one-careful-owner-Russian-missile-went-SIX-times-speed-sound-set-fetch-50-000.html I suppose "Aviation" is the correct Section ? moderators LoL

What intrigues me , is the survival capsule , some sort of rocket ejector mechanism (possibly fired a fraction before impact, super air-bag style) or surrounded by nicked Chobham armour. Doubtfull that this capsule is a hoax LoL

When the truck was first road registered as UCU971Y , then UC = London C alternatively CU = South Shields It seems it is CU therefore DVLA South Shields would hold the records , however all local offices ISTR are now closed & show in total run from Swansea HQ. Almost certainly when the registration form application was sent / presented at counter, then they would have needed to see the all important "Release Notes" and a photo-copy would be taken , this would state the mil. VRM and chassis No. Looks like a DVLA Swansea search needed ,,

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3067609/Putin-unveils-new-Russian-tank-1993-powerful-gun-huge-arsenal-sophisticated-military-hardware.html

RX = Berkshire RX 9049 Vehicle details Vehicle make RILEY Date of first registration 01 August 1931 Year of manufacture 1931 Cylinder capacity (cc) 1498cc Wheelplan 2 AXLE RIGID BODY Revenue weight Not available Could in fact be Brunswick Green , DBG , Brunswick & BRG - all very similar

Looked into this a bit more , seems it is FMW For a fee of £5 FMW can also try and find your Military registration plate (ERM) from your Chassis number. Email Geoff at freemil@btinternet.com To save a lot of hassle , then £5 to get your ERM - then that should set the ball rolling.

I have 19FM65 95101107A It was 30/4/73 receipt voucher at Ashchurch , so thingies more or less fall in line. 1973 , I would expect that if RAF then it would originally have been painted in RAF Blue/Grey , not DBG. Most L'wt's are sort of known, try Forum search appeals , try working backwards with PO's - you may get to somebody in possession still of the "Release Notes". There is the odd person out there who would run it to earth for a few ££ , not may ££ but I have never used him , somebody will advise on this ,,

BUT , mine is getting the Bothy 6 feet away , brick,stone & Rosemary tiled roof , CI pot belly stove , interconnection tunnel (non. combustible brick/block etc. May need a induced or forced draught fan to move a bit of warm air into the workshop (that is to be well insulated too) - in fact I may end up with a bed LoL

3/4" finish tanalised Birch ply 8x4 std. bolt up modules using Canadian decking joists - very solid , outer horizontal rails similar joists - to these are nailed the vertical T&G tanalised. 1/2" finish tanalised roof gives immediate standing to do the fake slate roof. Plenty of gable overhang so sides don't get rain-water , all roof timbers tanalised , then quality tanalised fascia boards , undercloak & barge boards when I get round to it. Designed so additional windows can be jig-sawed out as / when required as build progresses & more natural light needed. Front has much extended roof (as rear even but more) , to soften the high eaves & for 4ft decking covered veranda Floor area (internal) 30 square M exact more or less. Brick / block is cheaper , abt. £1,000 material costs for roof , walls - IIRC abt. the same , add another £1,000 for T&G cleading.

The 30 square metre max. without all the bother of council approvals. There are a few more rules :- Off the top of my head 1. Must not be in a conservation area. Also must be within the house curtilage , with garden should be no problem - gath or field adjoining is not curtilage. 2. Max. to apex. 4m 3. Max. to eaves 2.5 m 4. If made from combustible materiels (external) - then it must be a certain distance from the dwelling (I think this is 15 feet) 5. Must be behind the house "building line" / building line(s) , (frontage to adj. highway) ------------- Roof - you will probably find that if you go for a clear-span in excess - of abt. 12ft , then the cost of the structure for superimposed load goes through the roof..

Last year apparently, Bonhams auction house sold the fuselage data plate & a bit of alloy belonging Hess's Bf110 , looted - it had been squirreled away for abt. 75 years. Probably some anorak is lofting away in his shed ,on the basis of a Airfix kit - what ££$$ price for the Deputy Fuhrer's Messerschmitt when it flies LoL http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/21651/lot/51/

More probable would be one of those Burmese fuze , should fly more straight ,,

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-cambridgeshire-32488837 I understand the Spitfire fuselage & wings were made from Alclad , corrosion-resistant it may be - BUT so many years in salt water ? Engine parts salvable ? To gain airworthiness certification , I wonder just what remains of the original - possibly more of a replica ??

A Lightweight bumper blade has provision of holes , mil. chassis , so there there is a No.1 cross-member , 2.1/4" x 3.1/4" x 1/8" 3mm , L shaped press-brake / folded , and welded on. You should be able to slip it in loose as sandwich. Civvy pattern Rovers the No. 1 cross-member is where the steering relay mounts. L'wt bumper (late type) rear face has 5/8" packers (to allow 7.50x16 tyres) , there are in addition 4 qty. as welded ferrules where the pintle bolts pass through. ERarly blade is just bolted to the No.1

A very good book that will explain much but not all :- http://www.amazon.co.uk/Armoured-Vehicles-Ulster-Constabulary-1922-2001/dp/0711031606

------------------------------- From your description , two lock-nuts + tab locker , the axle is a early L'wt specific type (not a later "rationalized L'wt type , that was same as 109" front) . It seems you have changed the chrome swivel housing seal. QUOTE. Haynes manual suggests that the part of the stub shaft that the bearings run on is a loose piece. "stub shaft" Haynes means the stub-axle (that mounts the hub bearings) , the early axle has a transition fit (genuine parts) "distance piece" http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1803/599698-STUB-AXLE-DISTANCE-PIECE.html?search=217351&page=1 These (often called a land runner) wear and if so you change them fitting new hub seals. This problem was more or less resolved with the rationalized axle twin-lip seal BUT the land runner is part of the stub-axle and these later type are very expensive. Haynes is not good for Lightweight early axle because , the hubs are in fact oil lubricated (comes down between bore of stub-axle and half-shaft joint assy. (stub-shaft). Unlike early S2A hubs that had a oil filler ,the S3 hubs don't (spin the hub & pour oil in) or pack the bearings with LM grease. I normally oil , spin the hub and get the end-cap & big O ring on fast. You could use the special slush grease , it may / may not lubricate the upper top swivel pin Railco material bush - depends on circumstances , like fwh's best to engage periodically to spash some oil up for a certain good soaking. ---------------- Tab lockers , I normally set the bearings as described , don't bother with a dti , genuine tab lockers I get them folded somewhere near in a vice with soft-jaws. Then final folding does not alter the bearing set. Some non-genuine tab-lockers are far too thick , often by +50% you have a job to bend them in-situ with hammer & screwdriver , I have used the things but fold them a fair way in vice prior. If you have done the BIG chrome swivel ball seals , then best to do the hub seals at same time and that often includes fitting a new stub distance-piece land ring. Non-genuine are a PITA , total PITA , don't bother. Same with seals.

http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/heritage/secret-world-war-ii-bunker-discovered-in-selkirk-1-3752250

Maria , what is your VRM ? LoL It looks as if it is very near to a L'wt I have had stored for many years (actually 18 yrs) , 52HG33 , Dis. Nov. 1980 I hope to get around to it soon ,,

Yes, I forgot , Rogan did sell 55HG98 on to AR4412 , the chassis does seem to have slipped away fast , but they can and do. I have not been following the resto. thread by AR4412 , will have to find time for a scroll through - see if he mentioned the chassis details, important that the mods are not lost as I doubt if another will turn up. Also all the genuine conversions may not have had the full width tail-board - uncertain on that point as there were a few differences of those in service. I checked the ExMLRA Forum thread , unfortunately Rogan in his absence has not maintained his photo hosting - so all are lost off..

Hi Maria There is one genuine Para Recce , I identified it several years ago. 1980 Para Recce Lightweight - 55 HG 98 , you will find photographs (in-service) in Mark Cook's Lightweight book. I was given first option to buy about 2/3 years ago , possibly I should not have declined. Interesting details extanct were the bracketry for the full width shelf tail-gate. Uncertain if Rogan up in Renfrew kept it , he was not keen selling but had a motoring project abroad to finance, he may still have it garaged - I don't recall him advertising it.

Hi , welcome to the forum Unfortunately I am at the north end of England so not practicable to attend shows darn sarf , pity as you are obviously the type of person I could have a good chinwag with + take a few notes & photographs , being a L'wt person. I do have a couple of Unitary Radio Kits (inc. proper seats) + basic obvious thingies (wingtop boxes & guts) Larkspur ATU & Clansman TUAAM. However I need to study up the actual radio requirements , for a typical run of the mill L'wt fitment , the idea is to do the Clansman project first.

ISTR the hex (button) & Hex TAT nipples are originally Tecalemit designs, best is genuine nipple & gun fittings http://eshop.lmslichfieldltd.com/Grease-gun-adaptor

https://youtu.be/QG5kiCfgDog

http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/world-news/watch-british-tank-sent-ukraine-5401221 Well , it is one of the DM's with a tank click-on LoL