andy1960

Have you tried "Bedford MW 15cwt truck." Facebook group ? Especially John Ripingham and Landrover Nick .

It might help if we knew what the engine was. If it is fitted with a governor, this could be causing it. Could also be restricted fuel supply ............. Is it a lawn mower engine?

1948 Triumph Roadster..."Bergerac" triumph with dickie seat in the back !

Thank you for that gem, however a well known and popular way of improving performance and/or efficiency is to change the carburettor or ignition system. My guess is the carburettor has a slightly larger choke ( the hole where the petrol goes down) from 35 to 40. The distributor has the correct cam drive gear and looks physically the same, so it could be a better version being as it is used on jags and lagonda's, the only difference could be the vacuum advance and retard but it does the same job, or the dwell angle (the cam lobe profile). Anyway I will sort it out, it will run properly, I will not be beaten.

Hi once again...Sorry ..I was not being sarcastic ..just genuinely trying to point in the right direction....The Distributor Doctor may be able to convert your dizzy to correct speck ..also correct carbs and dizzies turn up on Ebay quite often...if it looks the same or was fitted to a more upmarket vehicle itdoes not necessarily follow that it will work! If you want to improve performance its often best to try and start withe the motor " as per the book " to get it running correctly to give you base line for any modifications ...anyways.. Good luck with it!

Hi ...not directly miliitary but looking to the groups expertise....can anyone remind me why a 4 stroke petrol engine would "hunt" ( rev up and die down of its own accord) when ticking over. Fuel problem ? Electrical/distributor ?Any suggestions welcomed.Thanks Andy

I am just commencing the restoration of my Willys Jeep which has been waiting for a while for me to get around to it. Well actually since 1975 when Father bought it! Anyway, its British but I have not other information other than Butler lights on the front wings and light green British Army paint on the engine. I can find lots and lots of photos of US Army Jeeps but not so many of British Army Jeeps circa June 1944. Have any of you out there photos you could post up or just general information on fittings for a British Jeep of the period with markings? Would be very helpful . Not sure whether it should be Micky Mouse or not, I suspect not at June 44?

Do you know about the Facebook group for British Jeeps ???? follow this link...https://www.facebook.com/groups/424561644379118/?ref=bookmarks.

Regards AndyB :goodidea:

My QL fire tender is finally ready for the road, I am having trouble getting the engine to behave. It is fitted with a 40RZFAIPO instead of the 35RZFAIPO and the distributor is a Lucas DVXH6A not the Lucas DVZ6A. The DVXH6A is listed for jaguar, humber, lagonda, rover and a few others but not a Bedford. The bob weights look very different to the DVZ6A according to the book of words. Anybody any ideas?

Sorry...Not trying to p#ss on your bonfire but.....you have the wrong carb and the wrong distributor so its unlikely the engine will run as it should......

Andy, if you go back to post 135 you will see I cut two pieces of 20mm form ply the desired shape. These were tightly clamped each side of the panel. It is then simply a matter of tapping gently all the way around the circumference just slowly stretching the panel bit by bit. I used a nylon hammer to minimise bruising the sheetmetal. If you hit too hard in any one spot you can over stretch and tear the panel. It is all about taking time to work it slowly. Each guard took about and hour. You can do an awful lot of panel work with pieces of angle iron,flat steel, and a lot of clamps. I find a swivel vice mounted on a pedestal that you can work all around much more versatile than any bench. These methods I find are more accurate and versiitile than folders. Lots of small folds can be done with pliers. Everything then needs finishing off with a panel hammer and dolly. Cold rolled panel steel is very malleable and designed to work like this.

Thanks for taking the trouble to reply.....Andy B:thanx:

Hi Jez ...good larf at Netley today !:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Thanks Ron....thats great. Andy :-D

Sorry that I have to piss on your bonfire Ron, but the series of pictures with the sailor were made for Enfield's war time publicity. The "normal production" bikes all had the smaller transfers...

 

Cheers,

Jan

Jan...any idea where I can get correct wartime transfers please.

First panel done. Came out quite well.

 

FANASTIC WORK... being a complete sheet metal novice ...just wondered how did you form the curved lip round each wheel arch without it buckling/rippling as you go round ? Many thanks for any tips.....

Hi Jez...thanks for the update ...nice to see them out in the real world again.Knowing your enthusiasm I am sure they have landed in the right hands.Just a thought though..before finally deciding which one to keep might we worth getting a ride on a restored one of each ...you might find yourself underwhelmed by the WD C performance :yawn: against the CO. :-D

They will go well with the Bedford. You know you cannot resist a good restoration. It is what you do. I would love to hear the excuse to keep your other half on side.

One for you ....and one for her ? works for me with Maz.... Gurlz on bikes...it's the way to go! :-D

Hi Ron ..just wondered where the Royal Enfield tank badges/transfers came from ? :thanx:

Speak to Ron Pier ( he posts on here ) or the BSA M20 web site ....they will know!

Hi Jez...some people have all the luck !!!....bit of WD 40 and fresh petrol and they will be good un's......:cool2:

Knowing that you will have paid a "fair price";)......sell one to pay for the other two!

Looking forward to the restoration blog !

Anyone what vehicle this may have come off and if its wartime or not...thanks

Raze ( raise) the compression ???...you will be fitting ace bars and rear sets next Ron!....nice work as always.

Having a clear-out of surplus spares for Bedford 28 hp engine and gear boxes....all these are parts I have had a while and not needed .

Gearboxes for QL and MWD/C etc..

Gearbox mounted tyre compressor

QL long starter handle.

Carburetor inlet elbows and flame arrestor.

Cylinder head with Inlet/ exhaust manifold..needs work but could be usable.

New old stock big end bearings 20 undersize..still in MOD wrapping.

Clutch/flywheel lower tin cover.

Dynamo ... used unit was working and charging when swapped for shinny new one.

Vacuum wiper motor new unused.

Military type fuel filter..... new.

Some other bits and pieces ...let me know what you want and I will have a look ......

Collection in person preferred as some items are heavy but will ship if your happy to pay courier costs.

Contact me for photos.

Nice work as always Guy ! .. looking forward to seeing it in Normandy.

NICE ONE JEZ :clap: !!!! been a joy to follow your thread .Thanks Andy B

GREAT project ..looking forward to more. Just wondered why paint the nuts and bolts? They would probably not be painted when new but cadmium/dull chrome finished.

Amazing stuff !!!! :bow: Rick you are a star!!! Is the turret form the same site ..only it looks different colour ??

Could someone put up a photo of one of the door cards, as i think i have some NOS !

PM sent.

this an original one.

Andy,

The little ball valve is there to release air when filling the system, once full the valve will float up and lock off flow. Once engine is warm, thermostat opens.

If the thermostat was fitted upside down as Tony says, then the ball valve would stay open, but thermostat would not open very quickly as it sense temperature of coolant from the lower side.

I am being a bit thick here .....should thermostatic bit be pointing up or down please? :embarrassed: