01ec28

With the ticks over here we take the oil from an engine dipstick and flood their rear ass..etts as this is where they breath. They have no choice but to back out, head and all. Northern bush trick with an automotive slant. Drew

difficult to read the legend on the photo, but am I correct in believing that you have three wire guages? positive, negative, and then variable resistance senders? If so do you have a ground reference still at point 5? Sounds like one leg is gone (open) if they're three wire system.

Alien FTM, just read your reply, I guess you can disregard the anecdote request then! Thanks for posting a reply. Do you know if 01ec28 ever had her boxes knocked off? Cheers, Drew

Thank you again peter. AlienFTM, any anecdotal stories you'd be prepared to offer? I know I have one about the starter not working and one about the wheel station falling off. email me if you can, I think this post is starting to get off of the original topic and I don't want to take up forum space. Cheers, Drew drewswan@hotmail.com

I'll see how it lasts. The cylinder I made holds 1/4cup of desciccant. It will also serve to filter any bugs as you mention. I'll keep an eye on it. Right now it's a black cylinder but soon to be clear so i can monitor the condition of the desciccant. Cheers, Drew

I've used this method before. I took a car battery and a battery charger for the power source. Worked great and didn't overheat anything. In my case I used a large angle iron for the other plate, just don't let the plates touch, a fuse may also be a good idea. I was cleaning smaller fist sized parts. Drew

A warm winter hello from Salmo BC. Drew

The service record definitely shows NI service clive. The valve is mounted by welded studs on the hull however. Either way mod is completed. Cheers, Drew

Then I hope peter see's this thread. From what I can gather, the colour coordinate suggests earth yellow from what I could find, but it was black when I got it. I had been told it was in the gulf war and then went to the hong kong regiment where it was painted black. Any possibiliity this is true? Thats the reason we've kept it black! Drew

Well, recieved the ferret info from bovington. Is there someone who could help with translation? A little of it makes sense to me but not all. I'm mostly interested in where it's served and what the colour code # would have last been? I've tried internet searching but haven't come up with much. Cheers, Drew

Forgive my ignorance, but what is an NI history Clive? If related to the service record, I've only recently sent my request to bovington museum and should recieve the records shortly. Cheers, Drew

Thank you Richard. As it's correct I'll leave it in place and place desciccant between it and the outside vent. Thanks, Drew

Hello again. I've wondered about this part which seems to be a modification at one time? Anyone know if the part pictured is a fuel rollover valve. Breathing through and tipping it seems to confirm this, or does it serve another roll. What I am considering is removing the part, saving the bracket, and fitting a silica desiccant breather in its place to keep moisture out of the tank. It is on a ferret mk2/3. Cheers, Drew

Welcome to snowmobile land! I know lots of people going on that trip! I'm sure it will be a blast. Sadly can't make it ourselves. Drew Salmo BC Canada

posted this on ferret forum and got a bit of the reme history on this. I noticed when I went to fill the relay box that they did indeed have some leakage from the above steering box. Anyhow, my solution was to fill with a 3/8 fitting and barrel pump the oil with the steering crossover cracked to let out air. Only lost a touch of oil changing out my filling fitting to the drain plug when done. Seemed way easier than removing the inspection plates. D

I'm not sure if I've run across disagreements between two manuals. One manual says to drain the steering relay boxes every 6000 miles to drain off oil seepage, which to me would mean they should be left free of oil except any film that is left inside. Another field repair manual, if I read it right, says to fill the relay boxes with 1.5 pints of oil. Are these boxes meant to be only lightly lubricated by leakage? There's no grease points on the relay lever bushes and no fill points on the relay boxes( besides inspection plate for removing the link pin). Regards, Drew

Thanks very much for the information. I appreciate it everyone. I'm thinking because my storage duration is what would seem to be on the cusp of long vs short term, a marine lubricating fogging spray (may or may not be lanolin based now)ought to be the best option. I've always run a small amount of 2 stroke oil or top end lubricant without plug fouling occuring in my older vehicles to lube the top end for startup. First in our 52 series 1 landrover and now in the others. Had the head off the 80" to decarbonize and it seemed fine. Just don't want to bugger the main bearings on the ferret with dry starts and cause damage from excessive thermal cycling without getting to operating temp. Last question, do the ferret main bearings sit in some oil because of the dry sump setup? Thanks again for your patience and time. Cheers, Drew

Not really where I was coming from. At -20c it's hard to warm up without driving under load on salted snowy roads. What I'm more interested in is the military preservation standards? For instance, did they oil the cylinders with anything special such as a fogging spray? Hand turn once a month or oil at any particular frequency? I'm interested in what's best if the vehicle is not to be started at all for around 5 months. Cheers, Drew

ok I hope this can help. On the furthers right of the dash on I have added the retangular square plate with tach and a key switch that goes to a batt cutoff solenoid. Originally nothing there. (I live in mountainous area and push it quite hard on occasion). On the washer motor cover to the left of the steering wheel, I believe it was the past owner who added the small horn button. To the left of the dash, all the plates were there. To the right of the demister boost switch I added a backup light/beeper switch, and on the plate below it, next to the hazourd switch I added a siren switch ( for a two tone siren setup I use for parades). Again, the only metal plate I added was the black one to the right of original dash.(*left hand drive.) Hope this is of more help than confusion. Drew

Can anyone point me towards publication emer wheeled vehicles A019 miscellaneous instruction no 9 or enlighten me as to what it says please? I'm curious about longer term winter storage on a ferret. Is it no more than putting oil in cylinders, hand ranking engine, tires etc? Service manual mentions it in the out of use servicing section. Anything out of use over four months it says needs to follow this. (our winter is right on the edge of this and driving around town in salt isn't my first choice.) Any help or advice would be appreciated. I started it monthly this year in the driveway but suspect not running it at all may be better? Cheers, Drew

Will your dash be the same as a 1970 11a. Clive? I'll post pics of ours if need. Drew

any chance it's like older rovers? Mine has a thermometer pocket on the left side frame (11a with a capillary) on the oil cooler inlet side. D

Did it ever work since you've had it? If not, just wondering if since a wire was already disconnected, could a previous owner have used a 11a positive earth gauge? I,m not sure if it would react like that. Does the other tank sender behave the same? Drew

A warm welcome from Salmo BC Canada. Drew

I hope the person(s) responsible is identified. This behaviour hurts us all, one little chip at a time, and the damage may never be reversible. Drew Canada:-(