Ron

I've acquired 6 clutches for this project to pick the best of everything. However there are variations and it's taken me a while to deduce the correct parts. The mainshaft nut is much slimmer than on all the other bikes and turns out to have the same part number as a 50's C12 The shaft thread is 5/8" x 20tpi. No problem! (I thought) As Drags sell these. But the first one came and no way would screw onto the shaft. So I sent it back and they sent me another one....Same thing! So I had to take it to an engineer who has a 5/8" x 20 tap. Quite a lot of metal came out as he cleaned it up, so God knows what size their engineer was working to? Also their special Durilium bearing ring for the clutch center wouldn't fit, so that wend back for a refund. I used the original BSA rings with new quality 3/16" balls. Ron

I've now fitted the much thinner civy type tool box. Regarding the exhaust. Darren welded on the bracket to my mark and also the front silencer clamp. I've just drilled and shortened the bracket and it went on without any hassle, and my kickstart clears the silencer by 1/2"(the SS exhaust just needs to be lightly grit blasted now) This got me thinking about the WD toolbox again. Since the WM20 toolbox is clearly much wider than the silencer.....and also that the part number for the WB30 toolbox neither matches the WM20 or the civy box. I wonder if they made a slimmer version of the WM20 box? Maybe 1/2" narrower? It's something for me to think of doing if I want to refit my WM20 box as it definitely can't be used as it is. Ron

Same for me. Adverts slide about and then a pop up right in the middle of the screen when I try to look at a post. Ron

Yes Rik. John convinced me ages ago the the RN bikes were fitted with a WM20 toolbox. But it just dosen't work with my kickstart. You say that if it clears the toolbox, then it will automatically clear the silencer! But the earlier bikes and the B29 also had the same size silencer with the standard kickstart. (listed in the 1940 civy list and my RN list) Anyway I've just dummied my front pipe on and done some scaling calculations re the silencer. ie:- The main body exluding front and tail spouts is 17" long and 3" diameter. Which happily is exactly the same size as both my WD C10 silencers (Probably the same for a rigid B31) It looks like the kickstart will clear this OK. I need to get over to Armours and ask Darren to prepare me a SS silencer with the correct 1 5/8" ID spouts (Minus bracket, to be welded on later once I've marked it) I'm gutted that after all the expence and effort, I can't use the M20 box. Maybe they did make a modified kickstart for just the 100 RN bikes. But I doubt we'll ever find one. I certainly wouldn't want to attempt heating and cranking over the top few inches of my original. Cheers Ron (still walking two steps forward and one backwards)

I am not convinced John! The parts list for our contract, definitely has an earlier number for the toolbox than the M20 list. Also as I stated, the kickstart has the same part number as the B29. Anyway I'm going with the thin toolbox as per the parts list rather than try and find an unobtainable kickstart with an extra crank in it. I'll keep you posted about the silencer. Ron

Hi Rik. I'm not aware of a different kick start. They are quite unique becuase of the ear on the back for the rubber stop. In fact I've just checked the parts lists and it's exactly the same kickstart as fitted to the B29 which had the slim toolbox. So I'll be working on my civy toolbox now. Ron

My new sprocket is fitted and the gearbox is in the frame. So I've been doing a dummy run with the clutch and chains. I bought extra length chains with half links so that I could adjust the links according to my gearing. One thing I've just learnt though. Is that my very expensive WD tool box from Cairo can't be used as the kickstart seriously fouls it. I was talked into the fact that the WB30 was fitted with the wider WM20 toolbox. But the parts list clearly shows a different number. Fortunately I have the slimmer civilian type which will have to be stripped, prepared and sprayed. Two steps forward and one step back. Ron

Yes I've been there with that one Lex! Ron

My mate Steve came round yesterday to help me fit the head. It's a right work up, fitting it with the engine in the frame. We were starting to think that the engine must come out? But I thought surely a WD bike must be possible to de-coke with the engine in place! Fortunately the riders handbook explains how to remove the head ........Which made total sence when we thought about it. The gland nut at the top of the pushrod tube can test your patients! I'm currently getting my head around the tappet adjustment sequence. But first I'm going to grind the outside of the jaws of a couple of old spanners to make them more usuable in the tappet chest. Ron

Yes I've asked him the price. But I'm still smarting over the gearbox sprocket that he sold me for my WB30 that didn't work. Nothing serious in the end as my mate John machined my original boss to take the teeth from the duff sprocket. Darren at Armours welded it for me. All done for free. Ron

I'd be happy to buy a roll off anyone who buys in Bulk. Didn't I see that Mark Cook on the WM20 forum is selling it? Ron

I don't know how to do screen shots. I copied this link to a complete video ad that blotted me out. Forums - HMVF - Historic Military Vehicles Forum.html Oops I don't know what I'm doing?? Ron

Hi John. I think Lex will confirm, the rubber wire is now very difficult (even impossible) to obtain. The part numbers for the WB30 valves/guides/springs/colletts and caps are exactly the same as B31. But since I needed everything, I ended up using 7 different suppliers. The inlet and exhaust valves and therefore the guides and collets are different diameters........What a palava!! You'd think that B31 parts would be readily available!! I also had to get the floor of the rocker box machined down to accept the bottom spring caps at the right hight for correct spring tension. Regards Ron

Cheers Lex Always better to be over advanced, but never retarded! At least you can retard it at the lever if it pinks. Ron

Having pondered why the WB30 ignition timing is quoted as 1/2" BTDC on full advance, when the B29 (same engine) and the subsequent post war models B31 are all listed as 7/16" BTDC. I talked it over with a friend and we came to the conclusion that maybe it had something to do with the low grade pool petrol?? Anyway since I have a modified piston, I decided to readjust it to 7/16". I hope I've made the right decision as it's so much easier with the head off. Ron

Since my opp, I'm very slowly nibbling away at it. I got the magdyno on yesterday and shimmed up the drive end by 25thou to allow a tiny bit of lash in the teeth. (I hate a wining mag pinion) The top edge of my piston is 100 thou down from the top of the bore ( Because of the compression plate and extra gasket...I'm using a specially prepared Triumph 750cc piston which brings it to 400cc ) So I set my Vernier at .6" . So far I've set the timing three times, but still very slightly retarded. I've had enough for today, will have a fresh start again tomorrow. Ron

Rex Ward had one for sale last time I was up there. Worth a shout! https://www.milweb.net/go/rexward/ Ron

I've been in hospital and away from my PC for nearly two weeks. On my return, my screen is full of pop ups and adverts😖 Ron

When I change the oil, I remove both plugs underneath and the one in the center of the the timing case. As for the carb. I would strip it by also removing the jet block. Poke the tiny drilling out with fuse wire and thoroughly clean everything and use a new gasket kit. The only setting worth thinking about at this stage, is to screw the pilot jet screw all the way in and then back it out one and half turns. Final tuning when the engine is warm. Ron

Paul the slit at the rear is the breather come overflow for the oil tank. If oil is spilling from that slit, it must be full. Also once you run the engine after a drain and refill, oil will be pumped up to the timing chest. If the bronze bush on the crankshaft is in good order, the oil will hold in the timining chest, if it's worn, the oil will leak back to the sump, but will soon pump back when you start up again. Ron

Quite right Lex. But concidering that the whole number plate/MT110 is not original equipment I just went with satin black. But on reflection, I think I'll paint it brown. John, it seems obvious to solder and mount the resistor in the headlamp. But that means either running the brake light cable all the way to the headlamp or making another joint somwhere near the rear wheel. I use these 25W -1ohm resistors bought for a few quid each and solder them into the cable around the saddle area. In this case I've mounted it with rubber ties inside the frame tube above where the oil tank goes. In fact I'm going to cut those screw hole feet off and re tape it. Definitely not original but nore is a brake light switch. Ron

Today I completed the wiring harness. Using our favourite rubber covered cable. (Now unobtainable😕) I just have to connect to the horn, dynamo and brake light switch. I have a nice switch which I'm hoping to hide under the left side pannier. I've fitted an original MT110 tail lamp which only holds a single filament bulb. As I like a brake light! My trick with these is to fit a 36W single filament bulb and put a 1 ohm resistor in the cable to the tail lamp.. This reduces the current to the bulb by about two thirds.(equivalent to around 12W). Then connect the brake light cable to the output side of the resister, which then illuminates the whole 36W. Otherwise I'm waiting for more engine parts and a gearbox sprocket. Ron

An update on the progress so far. I built the head up,(Converted from hairpin springs) but I've since stripped it again as I wasn't happy with the spring pressure. It's back with Ainsley to mill .075" from under the spring seats, which will bring it in line with the normal coil spring set up. I've built the bottom end of the engine up. I'm waiting for an oil pump, sump plate and a few other parts to get it completed before it goes in the frame. Where possible I like to build the top end in the frame, rather than try and lift a complete engine. Ron

There is lots of information on the internet regarding the original enquiry. https://www.google.co.uk/search?rlz=1C2CHZL_enGB780GB780&sxsrf=APwXEdf4rFTfiT_N3DtKsb4g_Qpn8njcoQ:1685246301317&q=Uk+law+on+right+hand+side+sidecars+motorcycle&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwibpJjZj5f_AhVDQUEAHQBqBlcQ1QJ6BAgzEAE&biw=1269&bih=618&dpr=1.5 Ron

I think Jan fabricated one or two. But they are too time consuming to make and much stronger in their original cast form. It's the old story as I've found to my cost by getting parts cast and then machined. The low demand and cost, often reults in being stuck with stuff. There was a cry out for center stands, so I got 5 made at a cost of over £1000 for the foundry/post/machining. I still have 3 left. There are several other parts that I've also had made, which I wont be repeating. 😒Ron