Ron
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Everything posted by Ron
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The carrier is finished and the back wheel has it's new sealed bearings,... stripped and primed. I've built it all up again and await the rear stays and pannier brackets to align everything before welding the top pannier brackets on. The brakes shoes are at Villiers Services for new linings. Ron
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Tim phone Brian Tillin on 07786 861697 (mention my name. Ron
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John the top loop is the same as yours but I had to re-bend the angles some more. I then made the legs to suit. I'll post another picture when it comes back from being welded properly. The mudguards and chainguard came with the bike and they look ok to me. Ron
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I'm in the minority group regarding the "patina" vote🙂 Ron
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This weekend I finished fitting up the rear guard, put the chainguard step in, stripped and primed. I also spent a tedious couple of hours on the push rod tube, filing and sanding with 180 grit, to get rid of a lot of the scratches and dings. Lots more work to do on this yet. I should have another one coming, but I don't know if it's any better, but at least I can pick the best of the two. Ron
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John I just sat your carrier on to the bike. Apart from the front mounts, nothing lines up for this model. It is obviously the correct one for the earlier ultra light weight model for its skeleton rear guard. The extended rails at the back must pick up on the rear of the pannier frames. Ron
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I made the legs and cross tube and tacked them on. I'll make and weld the pannier frame lugs on at a later date when I have the lower supports fitted. Ron
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My local tube firm bent up the top rail of the rear carrier for me, of course the angles were quite a bit off. I've been scaling it against the line drawing and I'm satisfied that I've got that part pretty well lined up. It should be fun making the legs now. When I do get them made. I'll MIG tack them on and then get Mark the tube guys welder to neatly TIG weld them on for me. Ron
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I've dismantled the rear hub spindle and bearings and have got a pair of sealed ball races coming. I'll have to make an appropriate support tube between the bearings and john will make me a selection of spacers like he did for the front wheel. .......No adjusting or maintenance with these....., fit and forget. Ron
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I get it now Jan. I just did my own scaling and agree with you on the 290mm ( 11 1/2" ) support tubes. But wouldn't the "eylet" still need a joggle as on the M20? Ron PS No No! I see what you mean now. The "eylet" has a slight curve down.....DOH!
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Well 12" both sides for the B30 Jan. I still haven't worked out what bit you are calling eylets........It's bound to be a DOH! moment when you explain. Ron
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I've just been down and checked again Jan. The tail piece sits just nice at 12" centers. Ron
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John, rightly or wrongly, I'm using the NOS ribbed rear guard that came with the bike. There is definitely a rib shown in the line drawings. Ron
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Hi Jan typing together there. Firstly, the B30 frame is symetrical. I measured the length of the rear lower stay and concidering that there is some flex in the tail piece, I make it 12". I'm not quite understanding your part about an eylete and the difference in length of the bottom tubes. ie 11 1/2" compared to 15"?? Please explain. Cheers Ron
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Yes John, Jan is making M20 lowers stays and support tubes. Minus the strap that fits to the stud on the lower stay as we think the angle is different. With my limited resources, the loop stays took me a whole 8 hour day to make. I'm sure Jan's would be better and quicker. But the determination to have a go gets the better of me. Ron
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I've made the mudguard stay bridge pieces, the top one is temporarily held with bolts (rivets to come) and the awkward loop stays, with some finishing off to do. The rear lower stays and pannier support tubes are being made by Jan. Ron
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Hello Henri Being Velocette I guess it must be a Miller lamp. I can only think of the Miller 35E. I couldn't find one either for my experimental DC project, so bought a nice repro from the Rudge guy. click the link. https://www.rudge.parts/electrical-equipment.html Ron
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Today I started a dry build of the rear end. Ron
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Hello H Vos. The tail lamp is a Miller 35E. There is a guy who makes excellent parts for Rudge Motorcycles:- https://www.rudge.parts/electrical-equipment.html My own 1940 MAC (WD) has the Miller "pork pie" lamp. My 1941 MAF has the WD Miller tail lamp.
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I've spent quite a bit of time this week on the front wheel. Starting with finding some suitable quality sealed bearings to replace the knackered Timkin taper bearings. (Thanks Darren). My mate John made a new front wheel axel, (EN16) after I had calculated the distance for the internal support for the bearings. Then in and out of the forks a few times to get the fit right and finally to calculate the new offset for the wheel builder. Finally I cut the old spokes out and stripped the hub and rim to bare metal. Primer next then off to Adam for rebuild with new spokes. Ron
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We decided that my calculated width of 3/4" at the 11/16" fork needed to be bigger to give a stronger diameter on the fork leg. I then drilled a 1/4" hole each side of the ring before cutting it in half through those holes. Both parts were held onto the fork tube and the holes were where I mig welded it to the tube, along with the rest of the cuts. Inevitably I had excess weld to sand and file away. Ron
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Hi Clive this was the basic drawing I made for John. Backed up with pisctures I have. I can take more pictures of mine, but it's only what we think it should look like. Ron
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John is very busy being retired, but spent many hours with his mill and lathe making the basic shape. I then spent at least 2 hours fettling and filing to produce the finished shape before I fitted it. Then came more filing to tidy the welding. Considering the lengths that BSA went to to make these bikes lighter, what were they thinking of, by adding this lug that was never fitted to other models which all had the much lighter and simpler cable lug on the brake plate?? Ron
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My engineer friend John made the missing front brake cable lug for me. It was awkward to weld on, but by the time it's had more primer and then top coat, it should blend in nicely. Ron
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Today I made the oil tank support plate. Ron
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