Ron

Well as it happens Rik, I have this bike on the bench for a couple of jobs which has an original fuel line, which I removed and copied. But I had to adjust the width between the taps as there is about 1/4" discrepancy between the bikes. I tinned most of it, but couldn't get it to stick on the brass T piece and gave up for fear of melting the solder. So cold zinc spay on that which will probably wash of in time......Hey Ho. Something Ben can do better in the future if he's bothered. Ron

Soldering three pipes into a T piece without a proper jig or fixture is tedious. Ron

I've been rummaging through my box of old petrol pipe fittings and made a collection of this little lot, in the hope of making a reasonable looking WD/C fuel pipe. Ron

That is often the case Adrian, as per that wiring diagram. But the bulbs shown in the post on Sunday are actually twin filament. Which is something you don't see very often with the small globe. I guess you'd have to do some hunting to find them, or hope that a standard stop/tail bulb fits in the housing. Ron

Ian, the one in your picture is wrong. Here are a couple of pix of mine that I have on file. (as shown in the parts list) It's a rod threaded at both ends (3/8" from memory) and an eye screwed on at the front for adjustment. 'Ace Classics' sell some of the special slotted 'P' clips but you would need to check the tube size against the ones they sell. Or mill a slot in a standard clip. Ron

For added info. There is no BS paint code for Khaki Green..... Service Brown is BS 499 and Olive Drab is BS 298.

I think that's a post war Butlers lamp. Ron

Quite right Richard. I just looked at mine, and it's made by Flexible Lamps Ltd. Ron

Yes you are right! As this original pictures shows, a Lucas Rubberlite bolted to the right side of the body. As you can see, I have more adequate lights fitted, but I do have a NOS Rubberlite with original cable, so I might as well fit it and just wire it into the others. Regards Ron

Hi TL 56299 is the 2882nd bike from the very last 3HW contract (S6680) which was originally for 8000 bikes but reduced to 5200. I calculate the tank census number to be 'C6104299' For some reason the Triumph engine number sequence at that time was 10,000 ahead of the frame numbers and the engine fitted to yours at the factory should have been 66299.(effectively matching numbers) Yours is a slightly later engine from the same contract and I'm not aware that Triumph ever despatched them with un-matched numbers? But lots of engine swaps in REME workshops etc. (They just fitted the next rebuilt engine off the shelf) Most of us will never know where our bikes served or with what unit, but I guess a post war stint in the middle or far east does seem plausible. I'm quite sure the bike would have left the factory in service colour ('British Olive drab' by then) any other paint scheme (desert, RN, RAF etc) would probably have been performed at local workshops. Plenty more knowledgeable guys out there to chip in. Ron

How much are those lamps Adrian? Maybe send two to me in UK for me and Guy. I'll meet up with him at some point. Ron

Yes that's exactly what I did at the front of my Morris and Austin Tilly. I soldered wires to 'Stop/tail-light' bulbs and mounted them inside my original sidelights. At least with no MOT's these days, there's no one to criticize them flashing white. However, both vehicles have amber indicators at the rear. Ron

Cheers Wally. That will save me measuring mine Ron

Right Andy, the axle flood lamp with the 'B' prefix is the Butler type as my NOS lamp, which are easier to find than the 'L' Lucas type. Ron

This is the war-time Lucas tail lamp (in red primer) shown with an axle flood lamp which I fitted to my Tilly as it would have been. I also fitted the more modern lamps and indicators for the sake of safety. I guess the lens is about 1" diameter. Can double check that tomorrow. Ron

It was a little bit scabby Rik, but I smeared a bit of JB Weld around the worst bits and it all works fine. The actual center brass part with the hex nut is live when the lamp is switched on....Which does seem a strange idea.. But seems to work fine. Ron

When Maz comes home and complains "What's that horrible smell" Just blame the pesky neighbours like I do "Gawd knows what they've been burning this time" Tut!

I've spent some time on the battered number plate and tail lamp. I panel beat the number plate back into shape, stripped it... (not the number face), welded a small split and and primed and painted it satin black. The lamp was a bit more of a challenge! I managed to gently unpeel the crimped on ally rim that was badly squashed and make the best shape out of it that I could. The red glass lens was badly scuffed and chipped. I tidied it up with a suede brush and re-painted it with stain glass paint. Then gently panel beat the main brass body into shape by using a nice fit socket inside as a dolly. I re crimped the rim back with a small amount of JP weld to help it hold together with the body and lens. Sprayed the rim with cold zinc and the body to match the bike. Rewired with a more accurate piece of rubber covered cable and tested on a 6V battery. Just a rub over what's left of the original C number with Pledge Ron

OK young Steve. Now get to your room and finish your homework. Uncle Ron

Sright Jenk. The 3HW has the Vokes tube gully in the corner and 'TRIUMPH' transfers each side. The 3SW has a standard tank, but the WD version has only one metal badge....screwed in the middle. Ron

Quite right Jenk but I had lost track of those extreme charges by the MVT for none members, in that case I'd probably try the TOC or VMCC first. As far as I've deduced, a NOVA certificate will not be required. See this thread. I have been a vehicle inspector for the MVT Dorset area for many years, so picked up quite a bit of information, although DVLA do keep changing things. Ron

If you reclaim a vehicles original number by means of an old buff log book or some other means of proof, the original number will be reinstated on a non transferable basis. Ron

Yes I've done it loads of times. You first need to get a dating letter from the Triumph Owners Club or the Military Vehicle Trust. (Google Vehicle Verification for both) You will need form V55/5 from DVLA https://www.gov.uk/dvlaforms or best search their site for further info. No MOT or Insurance is needed nowadays to register a vehicle, But random inspections are sometime instigated by DVLA's appointed inspectorate (SGI) but it's nothing to worry about for genuine un-molested vehicles. However I don't know how any authority would view a frame number that looks like it might have been altered, which could result in a horrible 'Q' plate registration. Something to think about before any application is administered.. Ron Sorry I altered the owners club as I was thinking of someone else

And here is my Coventry built 3SW. With frame number on the top bearing housing and repeated on the saddle tube (no date) and clamp on field stand. Obviously some changes occurred at the Warwick works. Ron

If it's an Historic vehicle and as long as you have proof of the original registration. ie old buff log book. It's quite possible to reclaim it's original number if it hasn't already been used up (cherish number). Years gone by, you could often claim the number from it's number plates or tax disc, but I don't think DVLA will accept that any more. Modern vehicles that are on the V5C computer system should get their original number back as a matter of course. For instance, I've had a cherished number for about 30 years and whenever I change my car, they always automatically give the car it's old number back. Ron