Ron

Fortunately again, I could take measurements from my own WD/C and after several hours of cutting, welding, re-shaping, sanding and priming, it all seems to fit properly now. Ron

I decided to take a look at the battery carrier today. I was aware that a tray had been welded to the bottom and I soon realized that it had been modified in the past to accept a larger battery by adding 1/2" to the rear support and extending it upwards. The mounting bracket ('J' bracket as I call it) had also been cut and roughly re-welded into a strange shape. Fortunately I had a spare 'J' bracket, but then the tool box rear bracket had also been cut back, so that didn't fit the replacement 'J' bracket. Ron

I guessed that's what you meant Chris, but I can see no seam of a join between the ally and steel, and a magnet has no attraction at all. Regarding the rear shoes and other obvious replaced parts. I think as Jan suggests, there were quite a lot of available ex WD RE parts available in France to previous owners. Ron

Chris the rear ally shoes and springs are indeed different. The shoes themselves are wider in section and would probably not be any good on the front as i expect they'd collide with the speedo drive. What do you mean by "steel plate surface"? I can't find any steel with a magnet. All four shoes bear the number 4091 PBM and the brake plates are 4090 PBM....... Foundry casting marks ?? Ron

It's amazing just how many parts can be disassembled from something as basic as the brake plates, and some fasteners are already away at the platers. These early WD/C's had aluminium brake plates, obviously before the cry to save aluminium for the more important task of aircraft manufacture. Talking of plating. Ben has received some samples of Dull Nickel for one of his other vehicles and decided to go with that finish for this bike. Should be nice! The process after chemical stripping will involve both polishing and grit blasting, before the nickel is applied. Here's a very good excuse to eat more ice cream. Ron

hmmm! It looks like it might be a home made conversion to a Lucas WD lamp. But I could probably do something with it if you decide to replace it. Ron

Jeff I still can't quite see enough of your lamp to be sure. But it looks similar to this Miller lamp.Maybe a side view of yours. Yes my engine is prefixed 3HW, Ron

Any chance you could post or pm me a close up picture of the lamp you have fitted? I might be able to identify it. But regarding the correct lamp for a 3HW.. It's a WD bike and as such, would have had a Lucas WD MCT1 (fag end) lamp as on mine here. No number plate would have been fitted during the war.. If you are keeping the bike in civilian trim. The best thing would be the pre/early war spec number plate with a Lucas MT110 lamp....As fitted to my 3SW (second picture). Ron

I've been working on the wheels over the last couple of days. The bearings are perfect and I guess must have been replaced in recent times. I've spun the wheels up and the rims are as true as you could ever wish for. The spokes are all tight and in good condition, in fact I'd say some of the spokes have been replaced, so maintenance has been performed. In the interest of saving £250 or more on a re-spoke and on the old adage of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" I've just stripped all the old paint off and primed them with several heavy coats. The bearings are of the non adjustable type and will just require repacking with grease. Ron

Some more parts stripped and primed. Ron

Yes indeed Niels! But as Steve pointed out in a previous post it has limited capabilities compared with cad or chrome, but it was what they used on some fixings. I've sent other fasteners to be electro plated black, but in the case of the fork spindles, I just wanted the tips done so I did it myself. Ron

These WD/C forks are a bit of a work up to assemble as the fork blades have to be drawn together with the top spindle which has a left and right hand thread at each end. Then the damper spindle tube can be fully bolted up with the eight little nuts and bolts. I've assembled the forks onto the bike with new friction discs and adjusted the steering stem bearings and will re-check the spindle adjustment when the nuts come back from the platers. Ron

I just make the very tip hot, just before it goes red. I hold the spindle in my bare hand, so nothing is that hot.It's worked well for me in the past. Ron

Oil bluing the ends of the fork spindles with heat and quenching in old engine oil, prior to reassembling the forks........Laters! Ron

As I look now, all the pictures have disappeared?? Anyway I took the stuff for blacking to the platers and they advised the following. Chemical Black will easily rub off Manganese Black Sulphate will need constant oiling to preserve Zink plate with black passivate is the toughest and the one I've gone for. Ron

Here is the plate. January 1944 ????? Ron

Well it is the mag that Ben removed from the bike, so you must have seen it Rik. Ron

Cheers Jan. As a distraction from the drudge of stripping mud and paint and something more mechanical. I fitted the rebuilt magdyno today. Timed up with the head off to make life easier and I also adjusted the tappets. Ron

My plater has mentioned various forms of electro or chemical blacking and I think he mentioned "zinc black" or something for my application. But I'll go there tomorrow and report back. Ron

In the meantime I've been working on the mudguards. Stripped to bare metal, some panel beating to the lower edge of the front guard and a couple of unnecessary holes welded up before a coat of Jenolite overnight, followed today with some real heavy coats of primer to act as high build before W&D. The mud round the French area where the bike was ridden, sets like Tarmac. Ron

Well Ben can inspect and pull them if it's not too late. Ron

Ben has done a great job of sorting out the box of shitty fasteners and ancillaries I sent him. We'll see what his plate shop makes of it all. Ron

I'm happy with that Rik. Especially as my illustrated parts lists covers 4 contracts C7182-7890-8136-11463 and shows the early stand for all of them. I've cleaned up the stuff for electro/chemical blacking. (I can't remember what process they use, but they will advice the best) and no doubt they will chemical or acid dip clean them too......Always a good idea to take a picture and print a copy with any parts going to the platers. Ron

Aw shucks Steve, love you too! Whiskey Andy? It's medicine! Dulls the pain don't you know. Jan, God bless Royal Enfield for their illustrations. They are so easy to spot know that we know! My own WD/C from contract C8136 must have had a replacement. I won't be changing it as I remember what a heave it used to be on my previous WD/C. Even Ben's bike had been fitted with a lifting handle by a previous owner. Maybe this and the history of them breaking is why they got shortened. Ron

Well not by the 20th, that's for sure, maybe on your next trip to this island. In the meantime you best get some practice in on Jan's. Ron