Ron

Love the spaceship back light Lex! Ron Uh OH just read your post properly deleted the bit about a Norton mudguard

I can't help with any spare engine plates but I imagine they would have been 1/8" originally?? However I wonder if you might experience problems with the mag platform if you make them too thick? Have you tried Steve Surbey at 'AMC Classics' for decent originals? Ron

A Dutch friend of mine has a tank from the last contract (still with original paint and census number found under black paint) This also has a chrome badge! But the Flea that was dug up at Oosterbeek definitely has white enamel. Clearly then unless these chrome ones were retro fitted, both types must have been used, but I'm told that mostly it was the type with white enamel. Richard, Terry Roberts (Metal Magic) email address is metaltel@yahoo.co.uk Phone 01189 731631.He's in Eversley, Hampshire My Flea is now quite correct and if you want any specific pictures, just PM me with your email address. Ron

It's all back together Chris with no signs of touching anywhere, and it kicks through compression without slipping now. The factory pictures seem to show that they used the standard 250 chaincase. The outer case is the one that Alan Swainson made for me, copied from yours, and since old Alan has passed away now, I won't be replacing it, even if an original turned up. Ron

I know it's been well over a year since my last post on this thread, but in that time, a few issues have been dealt with. Firstly, it was pointed out by Lex, that the rebuilt D shaped speedo that I bought off Malcolm Leach was in fact, "post war" but he kindly donated a war-time shell into which I've transferred the innards and glass from the other one. Also I got a horrible feeling about not being able to remember the seal for the big end oil feed, so the timing cover had to come off. It turned out that a brass insert had been fitted (modification??) So I removed it and fitted an original type cork seal. Again donated by Carl from Guernsey as he'd had some made for his Model D. Carl also donated a decent timing chain cover to replace my painted cover. Another thing that I didn't like was that I couldn't kick the engine through compression without my newly corked clutch slipping. On inspection of the factory strip down photo, you can clearly see that they used a 350 clutch and not the 250 clutch that I'd used.......So a 350 (model C) clutch has been acquired and fitted. Ron

Yesterday I was asked by a guy in Netherlands if I could clarify the construction of the WD Miller tail lamp as he's in the process of making some good repros. So I removed my lens and took these pictures. The ring around the back end of the lens is actually a groove on the inside which holds a spring wire circlip. This circlip clicks into a corresponding groove in the bulb holder. This should hold the lens in place if the screw falls out. The lens rim diameter is 32.5mm. Ron

Well you can go to all that trouble and then a correct one will turn up. The cheapest and easiest option is to just carefully paint it with enamel paint and put an original on your wish list!! Ron

You've done bloody well Richard. It's nice to get a bike finished and a pleasure to stand back and admire it. I'd say that all of my bikes when finished are not 100% correct! But then It's even more of a joy when the odd correct part like levers, lamps, badge comes along and those parts can be corrected. Before I found my correct war-time Flea tank badge, I had the post war version which was entrusted to my friendly old sign-writer guy who simply painted the brass part white. However I've noticed slightly less white on the original. First pic is two post war badges ,one painted in by old Terry (Sadly departed) Second pic is an original all enamel. Ron

I know a guy up Chester way who performs that on M20 big ends. The HD rollers are longer, so you only get one row instead of two. But you have to be very precise and accurate at machining/grinding the pin and honing the eye. There was a problem with Matchless crank pins breaking after the originals were replaced! The original pin was a two part affair, ie the smaller diam part was pressed into the bigger part (the bit the rollers run on) and these were fine until they wore out. Then someone had the idea to machine the whole thing from one piece of steel. The first ones were machined with a direct 90 degree corner were the two diameters met, which gave a fracture point and they were prone to brake and probably ruin your engine? When this problem was realized, the corner was machined with a radius, which then necessitated filing/grinding/machining a corresponding radius in your flywheels. Well over a year ago now, I bought a new big end from Les for my mates G3L which was the original type 2 part pin. Thank goodness they're making them the correct way again. Ron

Good idea! But Les doesn't work on Monday's and Friday's Ron

From memory, but when I rebuilt my G3 engine a few yeas back, I'm fairly sure I bought those spacer washers 'Off the shelf' from http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ ........Big end was absolutely knackered😞 Ron

AH yes thanks. Back to how it was then. What a load of Bollocks though!! In the beginning, I accidentally applied for a 'goods' licence instead of a 'vehicle' licence. What a palava trying to cancel it when they asked me for my yearly report😣 Ron

Someone posted on another forum that the OGEL registration is required again for France??? Anyone else know anything through IMPS or MVT tours for next year? See page 10 of the 2018 information form. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/open-general-export-licence-historic-military-vehicles-and-artillery-pieces--3

PS. I've seen militarized post war Fleas being advertised as war-time for several thousand Pounds and Euros. Ron

You certainly did OK at that price!👍 Ron

Terry Roberts (Metal Magic) in Hampshire makes reproduction headlamps, blackout masks and lots of other parts for Fleas and James ML's. metaltel@yahoo.co.uk but better to phone on 01189 731631. I assume you realize that yours is a post war civilian model.....(and only paid accordingly). Ron

From memory it's just a flat disc. T484 , but I think the revised part number is 57 0484. It slides behind this retaining plate. Ron

Restoration pictures always welcome👍Ron

Yes indeed Chris. 6896 was the 2726th bike from 4000 ordered in 1943 under contract number S1945 (same contract as mine) and would have had serial number C5113896. Ron

BSC is Whitworth form with a thread angle of 60 degrees. UNF is 55 degrees. You can use them together, but definitely not good working practice. Ron

No UNF on a 3HW Gareth. Either BSCycl, BSF or Whitworth. The 20 tpi is BSCycle which has a different thread angle to UNF. Ron Typing together Richard!

I just checked mine (I have a 3SW and a 3HW) It is indeed 1" x 20tpi. Draganfly have them but don't mention the tpi. https://draganfly.co.uk/index.php/accessories-a-misc/product/36952- PS I see what you mean on the internet where 26tpi is mentioned for singles. I suppose it depends if a later clutch is fitted? Since Draganfly quote the correct part number, it might be an idea to phone and ask them. Ron

Well on this subject, Norton also knew someone at the Austin factory! The propshaft used on the Big 4 is from an Austin Big7 and I'm sure that the bucket seat in the sidecar is an Austin part.......Sports car? Something like this? Ron

Another series of jobs, jobbed. I've got a Norton foot for the field stand coming from the Netherlands 👍 Ron

It's exactly right what you say Rik. But it does make it easier for checking! Instead of feeling for a fag paper to come loose whilst watching your piston gauge rise, you get an audible continual beep plus a red light as soon as the points break. I can only remember ever getting the pinion on in the right place once on one bike. Usually it takes 5-6 goes and on one bike I was up to about 20 goes and getting seriously pissed of that day. Some guys say that it's not that critical on "these old clunkers" but I think the manufacturers gave these precise setting for a reason. Would you believe that the timing for this WD/L is just 1/8" BTDC at full advance.......I even double checked that figure with Jan. Ron