Ron

The first twp pictures are the pre-war/3SW toolbox with the pronounced hinges and round knob. Third picture is a 3HW toolbox with piano hinge and 'dumbell' knob. Ron

Originaly Steve the levers would have been matt chrome plated. You can cheat if you are going to paint them anyway with something like Simonize Wheel silver or Cold zinc spray. Ron

I've never known how you can test a regulator as a seperate item. I always start by making sure that the dynamo 'motors' on the bench. Then if I don't get an obvious reading at the ameter when the engine is running. Or the headlamp doesn't get brighter when I rev the engine (in case the ammeter is fualty) I test the dynamo is working ok, by the light bulb method. If the dynamo is working but not charging the battery, it can only be the regulator. At this point I junk the innards and fit a solid state DVR2. Ron

Jeff just emailed me and said if you can't get through for some reason, send me your email address, I'll give it to Jeff and he'll email you which you can reply to. Phew! Ron

PS his email is working fine. I just had an automated respose. Ron

Well I don't think Jeff would change his email address as it's his only usual form of contact. But I've sent him a test mail which hasn't bounced yet. Did you copy it correctly? Best to copy and paste ... jeffalanhunter@aol.com Ron

The original number for the steel plates was T415 now superseded by 57-0415. The other plates are for different models. Ron

The same clutch parts were used right into the 60's I beleive. https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/triumph-shop/1937-1962-pre-unit-twins/category/1280-clutchpu

The modern friction plates (superseding cork) are Surflex plates # 57-1362 I think. Only three required. I fitted an extra steel plate under the clutch cover on my 5SW as I was trying to ellimimate clutch slip whilst kicking through compression. In the end it was too much oil in the chaincase. The books says 3/4 pint, which I think might be errononious. Other Triumph guys I speak to only put enough for the chain to touch, more like 1/3rd pint. I've used ATF on recomendation. Ron

Lucky find with the twist grip. For memory the whole thing should be over 7" long. You can buy the grips from Jeff the rubber man. Mention my name jeffalanhunter@aol.com #79 is the race that should be pressed into your chainwheel. The rollers don't sit in a groove, they sit up against the rim of the top hat part 81 and place them all round with the use of grease, before carfefully putting 81 inside 79 so that none tip. The rollers are cheap as chips but it's important to fit the correct ones. They are 'NOT' as often advertised 1/4 x 1/4 but are in fact about 12 thou shorter on the length........Length is not everything!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SET-OF-20-CLUTCH-CENTRE-ROLLERS-PRE-UNIT-AND-UNIT-TWINS-57-0394-BSA-A10/352583133774?epid=6004493140&hash=item521797aa4e:g:zZAAAOSw9EJZto8l:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true Ron

To my knowledge engines with plunger type oil pumps (Triumph, Ariel etc) Are not usually that prone to wet sumping. The first and easiest thing to check is the non return ball valve. Bottom left of the timing cover is a hex plug, bihind which is a 7/32" ball (#S70-7) and spring. https://www.draganfly.co.uk/triumph-shop/twin-cylinder/product/37748-ball-bearing-7-32/category_pathway-2 The ball might not be seating properly! After removal, squirt out the seat with say WD40 with the red straw attached and or an air line. Install a new ball, in case the original is misshappen, give the new ball a light sharp tap with a thin drift to create a good seat in the ally case. Check the oil level in your primary case, as excesive oil in the crankcase will leak through the main beaings into your clutch housing .......and ultimately, onto the floor. Ron

They had the long grips like an Ariel W/NG. That is a 6" grip on the throttle and a 7" grip on the clutch side. So far I have the 7" clutch side grips on my 3SW (rubber) and 3HW (canvas) but haven't found the 7" twist grips yet, except for the one on my W/NG. Ariel and Triumph had a lot of similarities. Ron

I've never bothered. I send or give any at Kempton or Shepton to http://www.chronometricspeedos.co.uk/ Ron

Which side of your car is your steering wheel? There's only one right and left to a vehicle Ron☺️

The fork spindles are 7/16" BSCyc (26tpi) on the right side and 3/8" BSC on the left. Ron

Assuming you have a standard speedo with a screw thread and not the Jeager pattern and that your mounting point is in the proper place by the side of the headlamp? If you order one from JJ Cables. Tell them that it's 21 1/2" from the bottom of the speedo thread to the top of the speedo drive thread. You might want to ask them to add the period outer rubber sheath. Mention my name if you want. Ron Pier

Cracking on Steve! But only 13 odd weeks left to get it running and some miles on before Normandy! BTW, the primary case would normally have been painted. Ron

This one's from my WD/CO manual which is exactly the same. You should be able to save it from here or PM me if you want it emailed. Ron

The wiring diagram is in the electrical section of your workshop manual. Ron

Funny you should mention that Steve. The rear stands on these are not the most robust. The stand on my 5SW was too vertical when in the down position. Such that if you parked it on any surface that was facing downhill, I think the bike could have rolled off the stand on its own. So last week I jacked up the rear of the bike (with the aid of ratchet straps around the foot rests to hold it to the bench) and I removed the silencer. With my angle grinder, I gound a bit off the wedged shape tops to the stand that butt up against the frame stops untill the stand sits as you see it here. It's at least 1/2" further forward than it was. I'll see how it goes but I might take a bit more off.......The whole anoying process took about an hour. Ron

Well from the evidence Brian Tillin has provided me. His own very original civy 1939 Tiger 70 has gearbox number TE29661 and apart from the civy models being churned out, there was then mass production for the war effort (all models shared the same gearbox case untill 1948). Brian has evidence that bikes leaving the Coventry factory in 1940 had numbers in the TE4**** range and as my 3SW has box number TE40455 I'm happy to assume it's the original box. It doesn't take a genious to work out the minimum amount of WD bikes that were built after mine (around 40,000) and add that to my gearbox number would give a figure around TE 80455. And that doesn't take into account spare gearboxes, or the losses during the bombing and any others that we don't know about. I can't understand these 1945-47 dates given by "experts" for gearboxes with TE77*** and TE80*** numbers? Ron

Probably too busy texting his mates to be bothered to look?

Graham you say Ace don't have any steering damper knobs? But they have some on ebay. I clicked as though to buy one and it asked me to 'pay now'?? (it says 3 left, worth a try) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-BAKELITE-DAMPER-KNOB-PRE-WAR-GP-T100-5T-T100-3T-6S-T70-T80-T90-DS6/273023737916?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D7426e2b83c8c4c4d81ea80c9dd72fc35%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D253237227630%26itm%3D273023737916&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Otherwise there's these cheap ones from India that don't appear to have the metal insert at the base. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-TRIUMPH-5T-SPEEDTWIN-STEERING-DAMPER-KNOB-8mm-26TPI-Shocker-Type-PUMMY/253237227630?hash=item3af61d706e:g:NQMAAOSwL~hbPz1c:rk:17:pf:0 Ron

Graham the handlebar size has nothing to do with the nipples. From memory the brake and clutch lever nipples are usually 3/8" but I have seen smaller 5/16"? Just measure the nipple holes with a drill bit before ordering anything. Ron

The fieldstand will bend quite easily with heat from a welding torch. I've straightened and bent allsorts that way. You can buy all the cables off JJ Cables on 01926 651470 (mention my name if you want) They will have all the spec and correct nipples and adjusters etc. If however a cable arrives with some discrepency to it's length or free length, they will alter it fee of charge. Ron