Ron

Here are the measurements for the sump shield. Treat some as approximate. Any missing measurements should be simple to calculate.  I've learnt to put a slot in at least one of the front mountings, to avoid having to drift the frame stud all the way out.  Ron

My Royal Enfield's WD/CO and WD/G are two on my current bikes to ride. The WD/G has less vibration due to the extra rubber parts, rubber mounted handlebar and heavier crank main shafts. With tools etc in the panniers, both are quite heavy to pull onto the rear stand......Maybe it's my age? Happily now they both have good condition original silencers, and a correct RE Terry's saddle for the G is in the pipe line. Ron

Jenk 

The horn is the Lucas HF1235 (Altette) 

The Amal number for the float bowl is 64/079. But basically it's a standard bowl with no angle and the 1/4 BSP threaded spout (Not the banjo type)

I can't find a picture of any of my sump shields, but they're quite a simple thing, so I might well take one off for pictures and measurements later.  Ron

Did you find the correct war-time 8-8 Red Dot with the domed glass Steve?

Ron

Jan has the patterns for the rear stays and rear carrier.  Ron

Ah thanks for the heads up Ben and good to hear from you. 

Regards Ron

There is! Scroll down to Classifieds HMVF Classifieds - HMVF - Historic Military Vehicles Forum

On the other hand, I seldom look there. My feeling is that if you want to buy/sell a motorcycle part, it's a lot better here in the motorcycle section.  Ron

I don't think Ben is a motorcyclist and his idea was for his dad to act as outrider when Ben was on "manouvers" in other vehicles. It probably just never happened? Ron

There is a limit Chris. I tried it once on a heavily pitted item. The plater put loads of copper on, but it just peeled off again. 

I did manage to scratch it whilst fiddling it in place, and as I'm using a different plater now and as I have a few lever parts ready for dull chrome, I might as well ask their opinion. 

But I always try to avoid the polishing guys if I can....They can seriously ruin your day and your parts!

Ron

The metal is too pitted for plating, so I've given it lots of primer and W&D and a couple coats of ally wheel silver. 

Just another little original part that I enjoy finding and fitting. Ron

Reading through this thread that Lex brought up again. There is mention of the unique split points cap for the WD/D.

Bastiaan bought a magneto to restore for one of his early BSA's which just happened to have a split cap which he didn't recognise at all. 

After he was told what it was, he donated it to me. Nice to have an original which I'll restore as best I can. Ron

Hello Paul and thanks for the compliment. I heard that Ben never got round to using the bike and sold it. I've no idea where it is now?  Ron

Ah yes Jan. "If all else fails, read the instruction manual"!  Ron

Sean I've got this original Terry's universal. I'd say that the 7 short springs are 2"- 2 1/4". Then the long ones get progressively longer towards the middle 7"-7 1/2"-8". Those mattress springs are quite hard to stretch. 

Does Jan's saddle include the pre drilled banana plate? 

If I was going to set one up, I think I would order 7 x 2 1/4" and a couple of 7 1/2". Hopefully it would set you up to measure the rest?

R K Leighton's are the usual firm for saddle covers, but they only use modern vinyl.....Unless you provide something more suitable.   

Frank is a good bloke but I've never considered asking him about saddles........I await his reply to you.

Ron

Here's a picture of one of my genuine RE saddles. They had that unique 'D' plate spot welded on the nose, until the universal was used.

I found this guy on ebay who sells good quality mattress springs in all lengths. The Indian made springs are just rubbish. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183492104769

Ron

I'm sure Jan can help you with that.  Ron

That's a fine looking methodical display of parts. The "Service Brown" is the correct colour for it's period of manufacture. However I would certainly want to address the cheap Indian saddle and  "helter skelter"  springs. 

Jan can advice you about that.  Ron

Post away Sean. Hopefully with pictures. Ron

Yes that is a straight forward swap. You can use either the tin or ally cases. Ron

Pawel as you probably already know, the same frame was used for 3SW- 5SW -3HW. so an engine swap is straight forward.

But if you're asking about converting a 3SW engine to 3HW? Then I'd want to study the crankcases to see about push rod tube allignment etc. Also the conrods/pistons are different. Ron

Welcome Sean. We'll help all we can. You probably already know, but  Hitchcocks are the first one stop shop to go to.....For Amal spares also https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/

Here's my own RAF WD/CO.  

Regards Ron (Dorset)

Actually Jan, Lilibette was still only 15 at the publication of that photo........Which might even have been taken months prior to that?  Ron

I expect someone has drilled a small hole to use a thin drift for bearing removal. I always do it on Royal Enfield engines and use a pop rivet shaft as a drift after heating the case in an oven.  Ron

It looks like it's fitted with an earlier 8" headlamp? Ron

A four position Miller switch with direct lighting resistor (if needed) Operates nicely and comes apart easily for fitting. £200 plus shipping. Ron