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Ron

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Posts posted by Ron

  1. Not much happening at the moment on the restoration front. I've just been doing some fettling around.

    When I built my replica Royal Enfield experimental WD/DC, I was missing the outer primary case, so I borrowed one and got it copied. Well earlier this year I acquired a matching pair of original inner and outer cases. So over several days, I've prepared them and stripped the whole primary and fitted them. 

    Another job ticked off. Ron🙂

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    • Like 2
  2. Steve I just remembered that the KC models didn't have matching numbers. They were all mixed up from the start. The WD WC10's did have matching numbers. After the WD WC10 contract the numbers got mixed up again as the same frame was used for the C10's/11's/12's.

     

    I think I can see your engine number, I can look it up if you want if you confirm by PM. Something is not right!?  Ron

  3. Alan, I'm Ron not Gary. As discussed in a previous post, that is the type that I have on my WD/L and WD/G. I had to modify the spout for my WD/L as the carb didn't line up. 

    Was that show the one in Dorking? I heard it was very dusty there. RON.

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  4. Are you taking 1939/40 C10's in general or just WD? The only register that I know of is what Owen tries to keep up here https://bsac10c11c12.co.uk/smf/index.php. I'm not sure how complete it is or if he distinguishes between civy and WD. Either way, not that many. There is also a mix of 39 and 40 parts and WD and civy parts.

    I guess I've looked yours up Steve, but I've forgotten it. Can you post or send me your frame number please.   Ron

  5. The red dot ammeter was used on both KC10 and WC10 Steve. Here is the correct wartime type. It has a domed glass. The second picture is the post war version (flat glass)

    remind me your address again by email Steve and I'll send you the washer.  Ron

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  6. And my KC10. Unfortunately not matching frame and engine. It came with a WC10 engine but I managed to do a swap with a guy as we both had the wrong engines.

    I have got a spare fork damper star washer if you need it.  Ron

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  7. Having studied the push-pull throttle cable idea at length and spoken to someone who has had experience of them, I decided on a compromise. I already had the complete pre war MAC twistgrip and had managed to get the correct end cable fitting made some time ago.

    I used some 7.5mm outer speedo cable and got my engineer mate to turn down and threaded a 5/16" cable adjuster to the small carb top adjuster size of 7/32" x 40 tpi. and by trimming off 1/4" of the plastic sheathing each end it sits snug in both fittings. 

    I then ran the standard Bowden inner cable through this oversize outer, so the throttle works just as normal with its sprung return slide, but looks like the original push-pull type. Ron

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  8. Yes I've only ever seen the top type on Royal Enfield WD/C. I think most bikes would have been fitted with the other type and an immobilizer. 

    But a warning. The suppressors are not good for your magneto. They must have been fitted as radio interference suppression was more important than magneto condition??

    I fit them as a dummy, by breaking out the brass screws and carbon center, then carefully drill the Bakelite out with a 7mm bit, and just slide them on the HT lead and glued with silicon.

    I have a stock of the straight type. Ron  

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  9. The contract number is for the whole batch of vehicles under that contract which can be for thousands of vehicles/motorcycles.

    The census number is the number allocated to each vehicle.......It's registration number in fact.

     

    Ron

  10. I have the correct twist grip on my MDD, but with a standard sprung loaded Bowden cable. It's been my intention for some time to try and obtain a correct push/pull cable. I'll see what I can find out.

    The MAF had a standard twistgrip.   Ron

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