Ron

You might want to check on these too, if you haven't already got them all. This is most of them from memory.

Under AMC :- 6022, 6024, 6025, 8452, 8468.

Under Matchless :- 6288

Ron

All the transfers for a G3L are available from Classic Transfers ....Mostly under the AMC heading.

Click the link below for the primary case transfers. Ron

https://classictransfers.co.uk/product/amc-6025-64x20-x-20x8mm/

Brian Tillin makes exact replica brake rod assemblies in SS. Although last time I spoke to him, he was still waiting for a long awaited delivery of the rod. 07786 861697. Ron

It's usually a brass hexagonal post with a slot down one of the flats to push the wires in with a grub screw. (like on the light switch). 

But you could put a loop connector under that nut on yours. 

Ron 

OK it's official! This picture is from a 3HW riders handbook and the other pictures are  other period models. Two wires to the mag earth grub screw point. One from the battery and one from the regulator. Ron

Michal what do you mean by "magnet tape" ?  Ron

Michal I'm waiting for conformation later. But I think the earth point for a 3HW was the brass terminal on the magneto. See here on a BSA.   Ron

I think the normal place is at the stud and nuts that join the rear frame to the front frame under the saddle. I can't find a clear Triumph picture yet. But these Norton and Matchless pictures clearly show it. Ron

Ah Jenk, I wondered who bought it? We were bidding against each other...Doh!

The seller was young Sam Jones (Yeomans) and I bought this one off his dad Steve some years ago. (Steve passed away a few months ago) 

Mine had a price ticket label tide on with a piece of string with 2/6 on it. Yours had the piece of string I think. I didn't know they had another one?

This one is on my 3SW and Jan copied it and made an excellent repro for my 5SW.

You can probably make something by drilling three holes in a plate and tack welding three suitable size old bolts/screws as pegs.  

I'm away till Sunday with my WM20 to a small DR rally in Droitwich.

Cheers Ron

I was going to say exactly the same thing. You will have to hit harder Steve. 

Stupid as it is!! It's how Matchless did it. I've never come across anything more silly. You adjust the bearings by screwing in a retainer against the outer cup. Too far and you have to start over gain by drifting the outer cups back....Doh!!

Ron

Hi Roberto. I buy the low tack stencils here and use a spray can. https://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/

Ron

You must only drive it into the brake drum side, maybe the dust shield is holding it, or perhaps they have been replaced with ball races?  Ron

Thanks Lex. I've got more on file too and some of the German ones, but I try not to talk about them!! Ron

Apart from a couple of bikes, there were no WO contracts for AJS. However quite a few 1940 models were impressed. I have a copy of the parts lists for these. Ron 

Steve the front bearings should be the Timkin taper type.  To remove the roller cones, take off the brake plate and undo the adjusting nut and it's lock nut and then the dust cover on the left side.  Now tap the spindle out with a copper hammer towards the "BRAKE DRUM SIDE" which will bring out the right roller cone, the left cone can then be pushed out. 

If the bearings clean up ok, then just repack and assemble the opposite way. If they need replacing, you will have to punch out the outer cups.  Ron

I've just rebuilt my 5SW box (Same as 3HW) The cam plate and or rollers can wear, also the teeth either or both ends of the quadrant. So to the plungers and springs in the gear change mechanism in the outer cover. Also lining up the teeth in the correct location to obtain all four gears can go wrong.

I also replaced the bearings (sealed bearing at the sprocket end), the bushings in the sleeve gear and the kick start and gear change bushes. A new Clutch basket/plates/rollers/springs. 30 odd test miles and all is lovely so far. Ron

Hello Roberto. You have matching frame and engine. 45943 was the 476th bike from 4000 under contract S5340 and delivered in the second half of 1944. The tank census number is C5566443 and the colour at that time was Olive Drab....... (BS 298).   Ron

I think it's from contract S1546 in 1944, (Type 2 frame),  but Jan will confirm. The front hub is pre war BSA. Ron

Yes that must be the case for the WD Flea and why the  engine numbers are prefixed with a "V" to denote Villiers carb. 

One thing that occurred to me and I've just checked out, is the bore and stroke are totally different. The ML has a longer stoke by 7mm. (ML B. 50mm- S. 62mm.....Flea B. 54mm-  S. 55mm) So this must account for the different carb settings. Ron

The carb bodies are the same part number for Flea and ML V577C. The ML has a type 3/1 and the Flea has a type 3/2. This can only be the differences internally. The Flea has a 2 1/2 needle with a No1 jet and the ML has a 3 needle with a  No3 jet. The numbers on the needles are the taper %. The stranglers also have different part numbers, but I haven't noticed a difference so far. 

I've never understood why two 125cc engines have different carb spec, but I haven't looked closely into it. 

I've no idea what the other number is (3418) Possibly a casting number?

Ron

John I gather that bookings from regular dealers and groups have been going on behind the scenes for some time, with lots obviously rolled over from previous canceled shows. 

My feelings are that people will be looking forward to getting back to normal and with over 3 months of booking time, I can't see why it can't be a normal contingent? ........See you at Weymouth.  Ron 

No I didn't Guy! I guess wait for the 19th and see what it is. John is a friend and fellow bike enthusiast and we haven't hooked up for months and I didn't want to pry too much into his business affairs.  Ron

I just had a catch up chat with John. He's been busy with the UK and German shooting shows and is now back in the office to deal with W&P. All is well with the Hop Farm. The website is open and I gather bookings can be made on line from 19th April.

He dropped the "revival" as he just can't see the point of it. 

It will be great to be back there.  Ron

Yes the battery tray should have two flat spigots pocking out and down for those slots in the clamps.  Ron