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Posts posted by Ron
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John the top loop is the same as yours but I had to re-bend the angles some more. I then made the legs to suit. I'll post another picture when it comes back from being welded properly.
The mudguards and chainguard came with the bike and they look ok to me.
Ron
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I'm in the minority group regarding the "patina" vote🙂 Ron
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This weekend I finished fitting up the rear guard, put the chainguard step in, stripped and primed.
I also spent a tedious couple of hours on the push rod tube, filing and sanding with 180 grit, to get rid of a lot of the scratches and dings. Lots more work to do on this yet. I should have another one coming, but I don't know if it's any better, but at least I can pick the best of the two. Ron
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My local tube firm bent up the top rail of the rear carrier for me, of course the angles were quite a bit off. I've been scaling it against the line drawing and I'm satisfied that I've got that part pretty well lined up.
It should be fun making the legs now. When I do get them made. I'll MIG tack them on and then get Mark the tube guys welder to neatly TIG weld them on for me. Ron
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I've dismantled the rear hub spindle and bearings and have got a pair of sealed ball races coming. I'll have to make an appropriate support tube between the bearings and john will make me a selection of spacers like he did for the front wheel. .......No adjusting or maintenance with these....., fit and forget. Ron
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I get it now Jan. I just did my own scaling and agree with you on the 290mm ( 11 1/2" ) support tubes. But wouldn't the "eylet" still need a joggle as on the M20? Ron
PS No No! I see what you mean now. The "eylet" has a slight curve down.....DOH!
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Well 12" both sides for the B30 Jan.
I still haven't worked out what bit you are calling eylets........It's bound to be a DOH! moment when you explain. Ron
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I've just been down and checked again Jan. The tail piece sits just nice at 12" centers. Ron
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Hi Jan typing together there.
Firstly, the B30 frame is symetrical. I measured the length of the rear lower stay and concidering that there is some flex in the tail piece, I make it 12".
I'm not quite understanding your part about an eylete and the difference in length of the bottom tubes. ie 11 1/2" compared to 15"?? Please explain. Cheers Ron
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Yes John, Jan is making M20 lowers stays and support tubes. Minus the strap that fits to the stud on the lower stay as we think the angle is different.
With my limited resources, the loop stays took me a whole 8 hour day to make. I'm sure Jan's would be better and quicker. But the determination to have a go gets the better of me. Ron
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Hello Henri
Being Velocette I guess it must be a Miller lamp. I can only think of the Miller 35E. I couldn't find one either for my experimental DC project, so bought a nice repro from the Rudge guy. click the link. https://www.rudge.parts/electrical-equipment.html
Ron
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Hello H Vos. The tail lamp is a Miller 35E. There is a guy who makes excellent parts for Rudge Motorcycles:-
https://www.rudge.parts/electrical-equipment.html
My own 1940 MAC (WD) has the Miller "pork pie" lamp. My 1941 MAF has the WD Miller tail lamp.
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I've spent quite a bit of time this week on the front wheel. Starting with finding some suitable quality sealed bearings to replace the knackered Timkin taper bearings. (Thanks Darren). My mate John made a new front wheel axel, (EN16) after I had calculated the distance for the internal support for the bearings.
Then in and out of the forks a few times to get the fit right and finally to calculate the new offset for the wheel builder.
Finally I cut the old spokes out and stripped the hub and rim to bare metal. Primer next then off to Adam for rebuild with new spokes. Ron
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We decided that my calculated width of 3/4" at the 11/16" fork needed to be bigger to give a stronger diameter on the fork leg. I then drilled a 1/4" hole each side of the ring before cutting it in half through those holes. Both parts were held onto the fork tube and the holes were where I mig welded it to the tube, along with the rest of the cuts. Inevitably I had excess weld to sand and file away. Ron
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John is very busy being retired, but spent many hours with his mill and lathe making the basic shape. I then spent at least 2 hours fettling and filing to produce the finished shape before I fitted it. Then came more filing to tidy the welding.
Considering the lengths that BSA went to to make these bikes lighter, what were they thinking of, by adding this lug that was never fitted to other models which all had the much lighter and simpler cable lug on the brake plate?? Ron
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BSA WB30
in Motorcycles
Posted
I worked on the head today. Removed the rocker shafts, hair pin springs, valves, guides etc. which where all seized solid. I'm taking it to Shepton tomorrow to give to an expert to repair the broken fins. I'll be rebuilding it with all new coil spring parts. Ron