Ron

Well I calculate the nearest equivelant OD to be 40mm. If you give me the width of the cup, I'll get advice from Darren. Is there a step at the bottom of the steering stem? ie a bigger ID for the bottom bearing? The amount of balls is academic if we are looking for a sealed ball race.  Ron

It's not that mine hasn't adheard Lex, but the glue shows through opaque as the transfer is mostly transparant. I learnt the shiny varnish trick when it was too late.......Same thing applies to the Norton transfers. 😬

As for the headstock ball bearings races,. You put just a small amount of load on them with the top clip and once the pinch bolt is tightened on the steering stem, they wont go anywhere and will probaly last a lifetime without further attention.  Ron

Here is an original tank and the transfers I got from "Classic Transfers" Ron

PS with regard to the headstock bearings. It might be simpler to fit standard ball bearing races with the appropriate OD, ID, W. I fitted sealed bearings to my M20 many years ago....Fit and forget. 

Darren Wrudd runs his own bearing company and is very helpful with such things 

<john-fenwick@btconnect.com> Mention my name if you want. Ron Pier

I still have three of those WD/C center stands, if anyone needs one.....I don't think they will be repeated.  Ron

Yes I only calculated the number based on the frame and census numbers running in sequence. It's just a best guess without proper documentation.  Cheers Ron

Sorry for late response and welcome to the forum.

TEC 742 = Triumph Engineering Company July 1942.

Frame TL 31772 was the 850th bike from 5495 from contract C13948.

I calculate the tank census number to be C887536

Your engine is not the one it left the factory with but is from the same contract.....Which is fine!

Regards Ron

The good old BSA WM20 and Norton 16H are a bit more stretched out and overall bigger and heavier. The Ariel W/NG had it's forks extended for the WO to improve ground clearance. I can't remember if it was 3/4" or 1"? 

The WD/C is probably one of the smallest of the lot. But this bloke managed to ride his AJS.  You think you have trouble.😄 Ron

Well done Gary. The rocking at TDC that Lex mentioned is a kind of what they call "Valve overlap" It's were the exhaust valve is still closing as the inlet valve is starting to open. ie The outgoing exhaust helps draw in the new fuel charge. 

The BSA M20 has a more pronounced "overlap" and there is a special system for adjusting the tappets on those. 

But back to the 16H. I found this YouTube video which shows it, by a bloke who had the same problem.  Ron

I missed this one!

Are your cams not marked with the meshing dots and dashes? It should look like the illustration. It is possible the work it out by counting the teeth. But best if you can start by finding the dash on the pinion. 

Also to note with these when setting the ignition timing , is that the points revolve in an anti clock rotation. 

Ron

L82C is the correct Champion plug for a 3HW. It's only 1/2" reach. If your piston is hitting the plug? Something more serious is wrong!  Ron

Both my O/S distance tubes are 4".  Ron

Steve this is my original foot rest set up. it is close to the gearbox which is clear once the box is adjusted backwards correctly.  I'll measure the spacer tube later. 

The only differance I can see with your newly acquired footrests are, that  they have square supports and not round.

See the pair I had made for someone copied from my originals. It was at this time that I realised that the shaft came in two different diameters. I have no idea what/when /where? But to that end, Jeff Hunter now produces rubbers with two internal diameters.

I'm quite sure the ones with the smaller diameter will fit and hide your squre pegs.   Ron

I have this set of BSA WD hand books. KC10- WC10- WC11- WB30- WM20. As yet I don't have the WC12 ......If they ever made one?  Ron

Paul the foot rests are Triumph and the fork side check springs are Ariel. Not sure about the saddle springs? They remind me of BSA Bantam?  Ron

Talking of Royal Enfield. I have commissioned a small batch of WD/C center stands. . Machined and ready to fit.

Contact me for more info  Ron 

I thought I'd sent you the 1939 and 1940 parts lists? I'm not aware of any WD parts lists for these?    Ron

Steve I can't get to the spacers to measure them. I'll see if I can look them up sometime. But if you line the lid up with the saddle mount like this you can't be far out.  Ron

Steve it fits with two tube spacers to the back of the battery carrier. I'll see if I can work out the length tomorrow 1/2" maybe?  Ron

Oops!?

Hi Paul. I've got 5 other Enfield's with the standard Silencer fitted. I'm just so pleased that the WD/L came with it's original and correct silencer......Something a bit different. Ron 👍

PS I'll email you about the centre stand. 

112.tif

Probably just for blackout measures Steve, like the white edges to wings and mudguards.  Ron 

Exactly as Jan said!

Keep an eye on Simon's site, he sometimes comes up with the right thing.

Lucas starts at about page 7.

https://www.simonsoldmotorcycleparts.com/category/toeters-claxons-horns-hupen/

Ron

Regarding the Altette horn and getting into some real nerd stuff, The HF1235 model had different variations over the years (apart from 6v and 12v)

The only way to date them is on the little triangular fiber board plate. Which of is often missing or can be changed of course. But the clue is the adjusting screw on the back. The screw was set into a recess up to 1947, after which it was a flush screw. 

Ron

Thanks Paul. What about the model WD/L with the rather flamboyant silencer🙂  It's a 570cc SV. Ron

Here are the measurements for the sump shield. Treat some as approximate. Any missing measurements should be simple to calculate.  I've learnt to put a slot in at least one of the front mountings, to avoid having to drift the frame stud all the way out.  Ron